The Last Truck I'll Ever Own... Build

03silvertj · Feb 9, 2019

I've owned the truck since new.**Purchased in in December of 2009, at about the 50k mile mark I did that thing with the stuff and the computer thingy and enjoyed the truck.**Well here I am at 170k miles with two cracked pistons.**Number 2 and number 8.**Not really wanting a $700-$1200 truck payment I've decided to go the re-build route.

I'm having TierOne Diesel in Rockingham NC do the build.**I've known those guys for about 4 years now and am very confident in their abilities.**They use Rankin Race Engines in Laurel Hill for all the machine work.

The goal of this build just as the title suggests is that I want to have a RELIABLE truck that will last me at least another 10 years.**Yes, yes I know.**The 6.4 isn't the engine for that.**I figure if I get another 170k miles out of it I'll be happy.**I'm sure that with what we're doing to the engine and with good care and maintenance I'll get more than that.

The List...**So far here's what we're doing;

FULL rebuild of the engine, any suspect parts will not be reused. To include the block and the heads (we're not that far yet).

Mahle HD International Maxxforce 7 Pistons, delipped, and fly cut
Wagler Connecting rod set
HD Lifters
Stage 1 Cam
Rudys Up Pipes and Manifolds
AirDog 4G Low Pressure Pump
Side Action Diesel Fuel Bowl bye bye
Industrial Injection Stage 2 Turbos (58mm High Pressure and 71mm Atmo)

So I've got two questions.

Should I add a Wastegate or a BOV to the build? If so, which would be better for the application?

If I should add either, who's is best? I see lots of Wategates, H&S Motorsports, EDE, RCD, who's is best? I'm hesitant to use anything from Elite for the build due to the potential for delays on the build waiting on parts from them. That's the reason we're not using their turbos. The kit from H&S seems very basic, and the kit from RCD looks sick. Thoughts?

I'm also open to any other suggestions for the build. Things you might do, or might not do. I only want to do this once. Currently the motor is at the machine shop so I've got a little more time for minor changes.

Kyle

powerstroked08 · Feb 9, 2019

Nice looking build bud! I would ditch the air dog and get a fuelab, and also grab some side action diesel valve springs and pushrods while your at it. It's easy to float the valves with the stock springs.

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sootie · Feb 9, 2019

Get good lifters. Side action has them

ncollins64 · Feb 9, 2019

I would do fuel lab or aeromotive for a lift pump, I would add the springs and pushrods like mentioned also. Rcd has great stuff so I’d go for there wastegate setup and I’d forget about the industrial injection turbos and go with rcd or elite since there tried and true. Also studs if you didn’t have them down. I’d check with Brenton at Sideaction for his lifters.

co04cobra · Feb 9, 2019

Even though they are the HD’s I’d go ahead and coat the pistons too.

03silvertj · Feb 10, 2019

Studs are part of the build for sure, just forgot to list them.

What gives between AirDog/FASS or Fuelab? My understanding is that the AirDog 4g is much better then the first gen AirDog stuff. Is the Fuelab $500 better then the AirDog?

The pistons are in fact coated, forgot to mention that as well...

I will have them add the RCD springs, I'll check with him on the lifters but they may already be RCD, and I can't find pushrods on RCD's site, are they still making those?

Matt · Feb 10, 2019

Personally I'd save the money and skip the connecting rods.

03silvertj · Feb 10, 2019

The carnage.

The piston pictured is number 8 which was the worst.

The pushrod pictured was rubbing on some of the casting from the cyl head.

The damage from the cavitation in the water pump wasn't too bad.

White_monster · Feb 10, 2019

Skip the wastegate and get good tunes. The gate is not needed. Don't bother with the BOV, they are a pain in the ass and cause leaks down the road. The industrial turbos are great and reliable. Only thing with them is they don't produce as much power as other brands but they just work. I've been hearing of some issues with side action diesel HD lifters lately. Most issues are to do with needing shorter pushrods with them. Any more questions feel free to ask.

Black AOD · Feb 11, 2019

Skip Rods

Do different turbo's

powerstroked08 · Feb 11, 2019

White_monster said:
Skip the wastegate and get good tunes. The gate is not needed. Don't bother with the BOV, they are a pain in the ass and cause leaks down the road. The industrial turbos are great and reliable. Only thing with them is they don't produce as much power as other brands but they just work. I've been hearing of some issues with side action diesel HD lifters lately. Most issues are to do with needing shorter pushrods with them. Any more questions feel free to ask.

Really? I haven't had any issues with them thus far. And ive probably used a dozen sets.

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Zeb · Feb 11, 2019

Whose Stage 1 cam? I don’t know of any Stage 1 that should need valve reliefs.
If you are running Maxxforce pistons I wouldn’t delip them. Roll the lip back a little to give it a little more vertical wall, but don’t eliminate it, and take a little off the top to get piston protrusion correct and you shouldn’t need valve reliefs.
I personally don’t see the point of coating the pistons, but it won’t hurt anything other than your budget. I’d rather spend that $400 elsewhere on the motor.
I would stick with Motorcraft lifters.
You don’t need Wagler rods for durability. Stock rods with ARP hardware will be just fine.
I wouldn’t run a gate, or blow off valve on a stock fuel truck.
At a minimum get your injectors tested. I’d recommend going with new on a fresh motor.

sideactiondiesel · Feb 11, 2019

Kyle, Feel free to give us a call and I can package all the things you " NEED" to make this thing nice, Not just he said she said. I can explain when you call the shop. Thank you.

Skip the wastegate and get good tunes. The gate is not needed. Don't bother with the BOV, they are a pain in the ass and cause leaks down the road. The industrial turbos are great and reliable. Only thing with them is they don't produce as much power as other brands but they just work. I've been hearing of some issues with side action diesel HD lifters lately. Most issues are to do with needing shorter pushrods with them. Any more questions feel free to ask.

As for this I would like to try and understand on how a lifter that is just as tall and has just as much travel internally inside our HD lifter can cause a PV clearance issue? I would also check the part #s you are using for pushords as they should be no longer then 9.800......

Now as for the gate goes.... This all depends on your setup, if the AR Or turbine is not matched to the hp # you're trying to achieve then this will cause BP to be high.. This will cause a choke flow problem at the upper end needing a Waste Gate to relieve some of this..... Now this is also dependent on HEAT. AKA fueling/timing/IAT/drivepressure. What happens to air when it is hot?? IT EXPANDS making more drive pressure. Now as more drive pressure is forced now you have also put another wrench in the gear in the sense of now you have more drive pushing on a valve that at the stock given spring rate can only handle about 75psi on the back face of the valve before it can be lifted off of its seat. Now you have another event happening.... the valve spring rate that you now have 75Psi of drive pressure behind now has to also keep pace with the camshaft and still keep roller on the base circle of the cam and also follow the profile of the camshaft in order to keep things "happy" Can you guys see on why we have so many valve issues here??? I DO it is why we do what we do. We offer products that better enhance your valvetrain so we can prevent things like this from being over looked when building an engine.

03silvertj · Feb 19, 2019

Holy ****. So much conflicting advice.

Ok, so here's what we've updated/changed,

I've added a set of Side Action springs (Brenton, it won't be me that calls you it will be the shop that is doing the build for me and I'm going to guess they'll just order them online)

I've decided to stick with the Industrial Injection Turbos. I had a couple of people reach out to me via PM and on FB about sourcing a set of Elite Turbos and all of them turn out to be dead ends. I'm not trying to build a monster just a truck that runs cool makes decent power on stock fuel and is reliable. I don't need to make 1200 hp on the dyno...

I've swapped the AirDog for a FuelLab. Due to the overwhelming suggestion and also after doing some research from an ease of maintenance stand point I like the idea of using CAT filters instead of AirDog specific filters as I can probably source them locally.

I'm keeping the rods. Maybe a waste, maybe not. I don't want to take the motor apart again.