The no no bolts discussion

DEEZUZ

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Let's start off with this is NOT for a customers truck. I would never ever recommend it or sell it even at their request.

With that being said I'm working out a deal on a truck that I believe needs a lifter. It's in the first stages of failure. The rest of the engine would be good to go, I plan on doing just lifters, cam, gaskets etc.

But... I do NOT want to pull the crank out. Question is, how many of you guys have successfully removed the bolts and balancer and put it back together successfully? How did you do it? Did you etch a mark or paint a mark? There is no dowel pin or chamfer correct?

I'm probably keeping the truck as it is CLEAN.
 

pdumont01

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Why would the crank have to come out to change lifters? Are you talking about the adapter between the flywheel and crank?

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pdumont01

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The adapter comes off the rear of the crank, I have removed and installed them many times, all I did was mark it with a punch for orientation, book says never remove it but I have not run into any issues. I have never removed the crank to do lifters even at the dealer.

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DEEZUZ

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And no, I'm talking about the rear crankshaft flange. It block the cam gear from being removed. Some people just remove the flange to pull cam. Your supposed to remove the entire crank
 

pdumont01

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None that I can recall. But like I said I put it on exactly how it came off, clocked wrong it will probably vibrate. I held the flange while prying it off so it didn't go flying and get put back in wrong position. I've done probably 10 like that.

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DEEZUZ

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So this flange actually had a seat? Or is it just flat on flat surface?

The bolts can't directly center this thing which is what I'm worried about. Being off center, not clocked wrong
 

pdumont01

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I can't recall, I don't want to give u wrong info hopefully someone else can chime in. I'm pretty sure it centers on the crank, not the bolts. I've definitely done it and know it can be done though lol.

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DEEZUZ

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Yea I know. I'm willing to give it a try but only on my truck. I just hate to undo the bottom end when it's not necessary
 

Dieselmore

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Set piston 1 at tdc, and line up dowell in orientation (the adapter dowell will be at the 12 o'clock position if I remember)Remove and reinstall the adapter and check the runout when your down. RCD sells the bolts, so why wouldn't it be possible to remove the bolts... checking the runout when done is key
 

08strokin

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As stated above i did the same just mark your orientation use new bolts and i used a dial indicator as i slowly turned the crank by hand to check run-out
 

DEEZUZ

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Someone said there might be a flange, is there any truth to this? Cause if there was then there shouldn't need to check runout
 

78f100

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I remember this being discussed long time ago. It surprised me how many said they have tried it with no issue. From what I read the crank is balanced with it bolted on as one unit. Removing it and not getting it back exactly as it was could/would throw the balance off a touch. I have pulled one off a old crank, personally I can't see it being a issue if it's lined back up as it was. Maybe on a really high rpm motor but not the normal play toy.
 

DEEZUZ

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So made some marks and trying to get this thing off the crank. It will not move.. just using a dead blow. .might have to get the hand sledge out?
 

pdumont01

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I used a big prybar and pryed between cam gear and adapter. If I remember there may be other points to pry on. Work it back and forth it will go.

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