Think my rear main is leaking...

[rascal]

EBPV and fuel bowl were both leaking pretty bad. Just finished with my EBPV delete/RR/turbo/hpop swap and cleaned up all the oil in the intake valley real good. Well, still got a leak; appears to be coming from the weep holes in the botton of my ZF. It is also coming out with enough "force" it is being thrown/blown on my new 4" downpipe right at the joint. I thought my 38R was leaking but I checked the downpipe and no oil in it at all.

I had planned to get my ZF6 rebuilt (regulator for fluid pump appears to be out) at the first of next year (bonus time) by MidWest transmissions and install a new Valair clutch. If I am going to have to replace rear main seal that would be the time to do it. Hoping it does not get a lot worse before then and I can rent the tool to remove and replace the wear ring/seal.

I would replace it sooner; I enjoy working on my truck. However, the wife complains non-stop when I spend a lot of time working on the truck. Takes away from her I guess. As you can probably tell I don't really have a question; just venting. If anyone has any suggestions/tips/hints/tricks please feel free to share them.

Thanks!

 

[moose99psd]

Have you looked back down in the valley for oil? A rear main leak is extremely uncommon on these t
Motors. Check all your hpo rail plugs including the big ones on the backsides of the heads. Also pull the inspection shield and make sure to cleab up residual.

from my butt

 

[rascal]

I just got done replacing my hpop and doing an EBPV delete and that engine valley is clean enough to eat of off. I check it everyday for leaks and there are none in the valley.

I have also thoroughly inspected the back of the heads and everywhere else I can think of for an oil leak. It is hidden behind the bellhousing.

It could be the back of the oil pan but wont really know till I get in there. I plan on pulling the inspection cover to see what I can see but I am sure I will mainly see the clutch assembly.

 

[rascal]

So far the cheapest I have found the tool set is $274 on Amazon. Seem like a really good price based on the prices I have seen elsewhere.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7835-Rear...TF8&colid=23GNN0IAZ19MS&coliid=I399TO0YK9M98P

 

[02BigD]

Haven't gotten around to it yet because work has been crazy with all this rain, but some further info here...

Rear main thread

 

[rascal]

Thank you for the link. I downloaded the pdf on rear main replacement. As for the link to the other forum; that method probably works good but until I see it myself I am not 100% about it. I would feel much better if I had the right tools for the job.

I will drop the tranny and will inspect everything before I buy the rear main tools. If I do buy them I will just add them to the collection as I plan to keep my 7.3 for a long time.

On the bright side my truck is running great! I am on my way to my best mileage in it so far. Got 250 miles on the odometer and still over the half full mark!

Thanks!

 

[powerlifter405]

Off topic...
You have a GTP38R BB turbo w/ a WW??

 

[rascal]

Off topic...
You have a GTP38R BB turbo w/ a WW??

Yes, I do. What would you like to know?

 

[neverkickn]

Thank you for the link. I downloaded the pdf on rear main replacement. As for the link to the other forum; that method probably works good but until I see it myself I am not 100% about it. I would feel much better if I had the right tools for the job.

I will drop the tranny and will inspect everything before I buy the rear main tools. If I do buy them I will just add them to the collection as I plan to keep my 7.3 for a long time.

On the bright side my truck is running great! I am on my way to my best mileage in it so far. Got 250 miles on the odometer and still over the half full mark!

Thanks!

LOL that link to the other site has advice in there from the owner of one of the top diesel speed shops in the country. If he says you can replace the rear main like that then it will work. I have personally done it on two motors that both have over 30k on them now and can tell you that as long as you give it the attention that you would a good ham sandwich, then you can't possibly screw it up. But if you just want some expensive single use toolage collecting dust in your chest, then go forth with great vigor.

 

[rascal]

LOL that link to the other site has advice in there from the owner of one of the top diesel speed shops in the country. If he says you can replace the rear main like that then it will work. I have personally done it on two motors that both have over 30k on them now and can tell you that as long as you give it the attention that you would a good ham sandwich, then you can't possibly screw it up. But if you just want some expensive single use toolage collecting dust in your chest, then go forth with great vigor.

I am not discounting that method at all. I may very well end up going this route :

"degrease everything, apply red (liquid hydraulic) Loctite to the inner diameter of the wear sleeve.

apply a decent amount of the "International Gray" silicone sealant (don't use the paper gasket, if it was supplied) to the part of the seal assembly that will seal to the rear cover...

(As one assembly) gently start the wear sleeve onto the crank journal, and then use the flexplate adapter and the OEM 18mm bolts to push the seal onto the crank (until flush with the end of crank)...

We use 3 of the factory bolts (~120 deg apart) and a stack of washers to pull the seal down...add washers as necessary to take up the slack. "

Just saying that since I have not done this before the OTC tools might give me a warm fuzzy. Heck, once I get in there and try this I might come to my senses and realize I can save $247.

I really want to do it now but I just finished doing all the other mods so I have to pay attention to the wife for awhile. Plus, I don't have the money for the clutch I want right now so I guess I will live with an oil leak for awhile longer till I can get everything I want and do it all in one shot.

 

[neverkickn]

The only thing the OTC tool will do is install the seal straight without you having to think about it. If you move slowly and turn each flywheel bolt a little at a time then you won't have any problems. you just need to keep the wear ring straight as you press it on and you can do that easily with the flywheel spacer.