Two things I see right off the bat. The adder table (eot vs rpm) isn't the one I am talking about, and I'm pretty sure its not the one that Curtis is referencing. The one we are talking about is the soi offset, which is measured in ms. We're talking changes in the tenths and hundredths of milliseconds. Personally I haven't really touched the eot vs rpm timing ADDER simply because I don't see a logical point in messing with it. The entire point, in my understanding, of that table is to account for changes in oil viscosity as temps change. IMO I would trust that the engineers at ford put a HELL of a lot more research into the physics regarding the oil, and since we're all generally running oil with the same physical properties that they calculated this map with, I see no reason to mess with it. Possibly adjust by 1-5% across the board, but this would simply be to account for the adjustment to the main table to account for larger nozzles and overall faster injection events with performance injectors.
Here's my thoughts regarding your egt issues and the base soi timing table you posted.
1 - I would try to smooth out that map a bit. Seems to have some serious spikes in it. Not saying you have to or its dangerous, but the way I look at it, consistency is going to equate to reliability when it comes to timing. I think of it this way, if you slowly increase pressure and stress on a given material, it is going to take longer, and potentially more force, to yield. Where as, if you apply a sudden jolt of change in force, things tend to yield and wear faster.
2- the valley you have at 2200 rpm (the purple area) is going to cause your egts to skyrocket. Depending on your offset and adders, you're calling for the injection event to start near or at TDC, which means the burn is going to bleed a lot of heat into the exhaust. I would bet that if you highlighted the entire area that is purple, and bring it up a few degrees, say to the lighter shade of blue, and then smooth out around it, you will see your egts drop drastically. Personally if it was my truck and my files, I would not drop timing at 2200rpm below where it is at 1400rpm.
When I get a chance here later, I'll throw up some screen shots of my daily tune and show you what I mean.
Reasoning behind this is as follows: when you are trying to spool the turbo, heat is good. Heat=force to drive the turbine wheel. Once you get up above 2000 rpm your turbo should be spooled, so now the objective is to control egts and turn that heat into power/downward force on the pistons vs lateral (for sake of a better term) power acting on the turbine. In my head, and from those whose brain I have picked, once you're up to 20-2200 rpm, things are moving fast enough that the risk of installing windows 7.3 is minimal.
One last thing for now, how's your idle SOUND? is it a purr, or does it have a bit of a distinct and defined sound, almost like you can hear individual cylinders firing? Reason I ask is the spike you have in your base soi table in the left side corner at low MFD and low rpm.....in my head that would cause issues trying to nail down a good and consistent idle, also could give a decent amount of vibration.
Also, if I'm reading your map correctly, I'm going to assume that it gets really hot really fast if you go WOT under 2000 rpm? Turbo probably is a bit laggy, and truck takes a second to respond?
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