Trans running hotter

[Dieselboy.]

Pull the rear line. And it filled 32oz is less than 15sec. Even pulled the feed at the rad input and it filled a bottle in seconds and came out with some pressure lol. Didn't expect that.

Might try a new trans temp sensor. If not. I guess ill drop the pan and see what I broke lol

 

[neverkickn]

I dunno, I think something is restricting flow. I have atf leaking from I believe the rear line/bypass valve area.

Hmm I had a defective banjo bolt on the rear port of the bypass tube. Mine was actually cracked where the bolt section meets the hex head.

 

[TyCorr]

The trans doesn't flow much oil without the torque converter locked, I mean it flows obviously. I figured that out the hard way trailering into a desert pit when my trans temps hit 250. I let it idle for for 45mins and it barely moved. If its an nadp trans id think they got rid of the bypass tube?

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Yea, you got that ass-backwards completely. Hence the convertor locked is.called direct drive. The fluid coupling is gone. With the conv unlocked, ie slipping, you are creating.a.fluid coupling.

Edit: I see Mark addressed this.already. And Moose, a slipping.convertor.generates.gobs of.heat via friction. Your atf temps measure in heat accordingly.

 

[Derek@Vision Diesel]

Why does my trans cool better towing slow grades with the tq converter locked?

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Less moving parts = less heat.

Friction also causes heat, locked up solid and it should run a lot cooler.... TC lock up switches are handy when towing (or getting the tuning adjusted to match your needs).

 

[TARM]

DB,

You checked both ports of the cooler and got good flow correct? I would tend to think that would rule it out but you did say the cooler was ambient temp while the trans was warm? That does not seem correct. I would expect the two to both be warm. If the inlet tube to the cooler was warm and the return was cooler fine but I would not expect them to be "cool" to the touch.

I would not expect the fluid to be burn with temps still well below even 200 so that's no surprise.

But I am with you, if I had a trans that always ran in a certain temp range and that suddenly changed even if it was within what is considered normal range I would still want to know: What changed?

I think I would still check the bypass tube just so its completely ruled out while you are under there.

Then I would pull the pan as you plan to do and check the sensor itself.

 

[Dieselboy.]

TARM, my point exactly, a trans doesnt just produce heat for no reason. This is what worries me. However I notice no poor shifts or slippage.

No burnt fluid but like you said, it hasnt gotten hot enough to burn the fluid. Pulled the return line at the rear port and by the test standards of 32oz in 15 seconds or less it did plenty fine.

Pulled the feed at the rad and it filled a big ol rum jug in seconds flat.

Didnt notice any clutch like material in it. So next step is to drop the pan, I have a few leaky bolts that need helicoils so Ill check the filter. Other then that there isnt much I think I will see visually.

Im wondering if the TC is slipping a minute amount.

 

[907DAVE]

Have you verified actual fluid temperature?

Temp senders go bad all the time.

 

[TARM]

Very good point Dave. I have spent a ton of time in the past chasing what was nothing but a ghost created by a bad gauge or its sending unit.

 

[TyCorr]

Have you verified actual fluid temperature?

Temp senders go bad all the time.

I had this.same problem. Sort of. I won a cts.from Hostile Diesel. It wasnt jiving with my analog gauge reading. Not only that but the temperature change in the fluid wasnt reflected accurately by the analog gauge. I dont have a pyrometer hooked up to the cts but its accurate on all other fronts. If you are reading this temp differential on a analog gauge(namely autometer) better find a different way to "read" atf temps. I have checked this anomaly on three 7.3 powered trucks. The autometer trucks are off....alot....ive replaced my sensor three times and the gauges arent even a year old. Autometer has a real problem with their quality. The gauges are ok, the rest of.their system is junk as far as I can tell. They USED to be the go to gauge company. Isspro gauges dont seem to have this problem. So a little advice to the op, if you are running vatometer gauges, check the trans temp manually.

 

[TARM]

Are you talking about the CTS reading the ODBII port temp data vs dedicated gauge and sensor and that not jiving? If the sensors are at dif locations the temps may very well vary and not jive but still be 100% accurate. If that not the case then disregard.

 

[TyCorr]

Are you talking about the CTS reading the ODBII port temp data vs dedicated gauge and sensor and that not jiving? If the sensors are at dif locations the temps may very well vary and not jive but still be 100% accurate. If that not the case then disregard.

Thing is the sensor isnt accurate. I pulled atf out of the test port and checked the temperature with an I/r heat gun. The fluid believe it or not was veeeery close to the temp that the cts reported. If you work the truck the cts atf reading.will.change. Heres just one.example. I was running.down a hillside. My autometer was showing 145° aas the truck had been running for.two hours. The cts was showing 160. As I reached.the.bottom of the hillside and began to climb the other side my trans temp.reached 180 on the cts in a mile. The autometer didnt.change. By the time I.crested.the hill four miles.later, the cts was sniffing.200° f. The autometer climbed to 150. Thats a big difference,imo. Say the autometer was reading 200, the actual.temp would be much higher. Probably why I.fried my.trans the summer before. Thought it was.getting.warm at 200°, pulled over in the next town, 96° ambient temp, and atf covered.cooler(due to a.leaking cooler). What I know now the atf was probably.closer to 260+. Ive gotten the fluid in my current trans up to 265° according to the.cts. I was tugging on my FIL's combination backhoe. The autometer gauge.was under 200° during.the.tugging. Its.that brass sensor they use. Its cheap! Isspro uses a.better sensor.

Im just putting.it out.there. Autometer told me the.fluid near the test port was cooler. My IR and kitchen thermometer disagree with the autometer reading. I.still have the gauges but when I decide if I want analog gauges or just the cts insight, should I opt to have the.analogs for peace of.mind Ill be.getting isspros. Inaccurate gauges arent worth having, imo. Defeats the purpose. I had a fogged up pyrometer, a boost gauge that would occasionally just stop working, and someother petty issues with these gauges that autometer basically told me to shove it. Ive been a supporter for damn near twenty years but.never another piece from them. :lame:

 

[TARM]

Yes I get it now. No question it was not working then. I figured you were just getting different readings at different rates is all.

 

[TyCorr]

Well I thought at first it.was different due to location of the sensors. The fluid in the pan is.mixed. Its the same temperature. There is no.difference. Its a bs excuse.to.cover up their.cheap sensor. I mean their.gauges arent that much cheaper that they should be manufacturing cheap sensors with wiiiide tolerances. Again, how.does autometer not understand this? They told me.to.mail them the.fogged up.gauge and.they would take a look at it when they get a chance.

Biggest bummer is I bought a set of burlwood pillar covers to match the lariat trim in my truck.and.the polymer is so thin it ripples along its edge. Just no quality anymore.

I wish they were the same company they were when I bought my gauges for.my.eclipse.

 

[TARM]

I am running ISSOPRO Performax Line or should I say I am in the process of swapping them in. I like having info so I wanted a few more gauges and their daisy chain system works well not to mention its data logging features of the readings is nice as well. This way I can see what everything was doing at the same time from those sensors instead only having it from the PCM with AE.