Use more grey.death than you think you need. Especially where the pan seals against the front cover and there is a joint you have to bridge. My buddy went to all the trouble to pull his to fix that and then put way too little because "i dont wanna waste that crap it was expensive". Which, he didnt have to buy any equipment to do(borrowed mine). So he has a new leaky oilpan and reused his dipstick adapter and nut that leaked before because "those stupid things are expensive" . Needless to say I wanted to punch him in the face when he was whining about how his truck "still" leaks oil.
truck puking coolant
- Thread starter P.I.S_7.3
- Start date
Use more grey.death than you think you need. Especially where the pan seals against the front cover and there is a joint you have to bridge. My buddy went to all the trouble to pull his to fix that and then put way too little because "i dont wanna waste that crap it was expensive". Which, he didnt have to buy any equipment to do(borrowed mine). So he has a new leaky oilpan and reused his dipstick adapter and nut that leaked before because "those stupid things are expensive" . Needless to say I wanted to punch him in the face when he was whining about how his truck "still" leaks oil.
neverkickn
New member
Actually the trick is to use just enough. Too much will cause problems, think little strips of silicone passing through the system and clogging the pickup tube. Also, ditch the oring on the dipstick flange and either weld it or use rtv.
Ok. I didnt think I needed to say dont put half the tube.just on the front,lol.
If you place it right you should just get a thick ooze or squish coming out on either side of the panrail. If you lay one bead and "drag" the bead(as opposed to "pushing" the bead as you lay it) it should be a round bead the shape of the applicator. If you know how to lay a bead there shouldnt be anyway for the caulk to squish into a string.
Thanks for clearing that up neverkickn!
One last thought. If you let the motor sit after you bolt the pan on the crap.should.be dry enough to where it wont be pulled loose.
If you place it right you should just get a thick ooze or squish coming out on either side of the panrail. If you lay one bead and "drag" the bead(as opposed to "pushing" the bead as you lay it) it should be a round bead the shape of the applicator. If you know how to lay a bead there shouldnt be anyway for the caulk to squish into a string.
Thanks for clearing that up neverkickn!
One last thought. If you let the motor sit after you bolt the pan on the crap.should.be dry enough to where it wont be pulled loose.
...probably recommend to run a compression test on it.
no since in fixing a HG if the compression is chit/low
