Tuning 101 - Thread Merged with Injector Posts

[TyCorr]

One good way to learn is dig up the older Minotaur threads on here that have a lenghty conversation with pictures of the maps of how to tune. One way that helped me learn was pulling up a stock tune and a performance tune and hit F9 you will overlay the two maps so you can see what changes are being made. Make small changes one map at a time and test them out.

There you go.

 

[sideswipe]

How do i overlay from yunes from yhis sight hell
all i know how is yo open the minotaur. Sorry guys
i cant retain this very well, when i do something
hands on a couple of times it comes real easy for
me. Having that disorder makes it hard for me.
I look at those charts and im lost. I will get it but
it will probably take me a long time to understand it.

 

[ja_cain]

How do i overlay from yunes from yhis sight hell
all i know how is yo open the minotaur.

You have to make sure you are loading calibrations from the same or compatible pcm families (sorry if my terminology isn't quite right). Try to read the entire thread from beginning to end and then you will understand. A lot of good info here and the older threads.

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[superpsd]

RWhen you purchase the software you need to open it up and start poking around to get your bearings with the software. Keys F6-F10 show you the different views of the maps. F6 is help which sometimes has a small explanation of what the MAP controls. The 3D views are nice but when you start there is no tag on the axis so all you see is a scaled axis as for example 1-80. Hit F7 or F8 (I think it's F7 having a brainfart) and the 3D map is now in a table view. That table view has the axis labeled so you can see what that axis is. Then go back to the 3D view and now you under stand better as to have the scaling of each axis means.

With all the maps and parameters inside of the software you will likely only be adjusting a few. I personally took on of the canned performance tunes that was sent along with the license and built off of it rather than built a tune off of the stock calibration file which would have been a lot harder for a beginner. That way I already had a good solid foundation to tweek a tune from. I mostly have just messed very little with MFD and most of my changes have been to ICP and PW. I have made slight timing changes very slight but I am very weary of timing changes when new to tuning as you could advance timing too far and things go "pop & or boom".

When you get into Minotaur it should be in basic mode. I do not think I ever need to go further than basic mode. I have changed it to expert mode and lots more parameters pop up and it's all parameters that you should not be messing with as I don't even know what most of the advance parameters are for.

 

[ja_cain]

When you purchase the software you need to open it up and start poking around to get your bearings with the software. Keys F6-F10 show you the different views of the maps. F6 is help which sometimes has a small explanation of what the MAP controls. The 3D views are nice but when you start there is no tag on the axis so all you see is a scaled axis as for example 1-80. Hit F7 or F8 (I think it's F7 having a brainfart) and the 3D map is now in a table view. That table view has the axis labeled so you can see what that axis is. Then go back to the 3D view and now you under stand better as to have the scaling of each axis means.

Good info! Like I said, you can't overlay Charles tunes unless you have an AEB pcm. That is what his are written for. I could be wrong though.

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[sideswipe]

I will try and poke around this weekend
I have some stuuf i copied when php
Tuning forum was running i guess read
And go to get an idea. Will make a notebook
with notes on how to use each item to
change. Can you guys give me highs and
Lows of each one to stay out of danger
Zone.

 

[superpsd]

At first you may be lost but once it starts to click you will realize the software is very user friendly.

 

[sideswipe]

Its starting to click did some searching Dave is a good teacher

 

[Charles]

I look at it like this....

You can go round and round and come up with nothing by trying to "learn how to tune", or, you can solve an actual problem and very quickly learn how to tune without even trying.

As an example.... if you're going to move into a new place, you can either spin your wheels and go in circles trying to figure out everything you need and things you don't need to move..... or...... you can simply move in. As you need things, get them. In that way, the necessities solve themselves out and you conquer the problem from a purely functional basis. You get exactly what you need and nothing else.

For tuning.... find a problem.... either, the truck idles too low, or the pedal is too soft, too touchy, not linear, so on and so forth..... and solve that problem....

It is ONLY in the act of directly solving issues that you will learn how to tune. That is the only thing that will prove out the correct from the incorrect conceptions and simultaneously burn the solutions into your memory.

Find something simple, like pedal sensitivity, idle stability or something that you do not like and FIX it...

THEN you will learn how to tune.

That produces real questions with real answers that you will see and feel as you implement them.

It's like learning something like math. You can watch the professor do the problems ALL DAY LONG, but until you go back and work through them ALONE do you figure out first of all, that even though you watched 1000 of them get solved, followed right along and everything seemed fine, by yourself you can't solve a single one and most importantly, that ALONE, you can struggle and fight until you beat your way to the correct procedure.

Those offering information can only provide answers, you have to provide the questions, and those only exist through jam-ups and inabilities.

Find a problem, fix it...we'll help...


If you don't already have a bazzillion problems at the ready.... then why are you wanting to tune???

lol.


The sole purpose of tuning is solving problems that exist with the current tune.

 

[TyCorr]

Sounds like an engineer

 

[superpsd]

I was doing some tuning and realized I added incorrect information. F6 is table view. F9 overlay Map F10 map. For additional information about a map click view on the taskbar of the MAP you are viewing and click help.

 

[MeTo]

Sounds like an engineer

+10

That reminded me of my calculus with analytical geometry class. In the end, plotting an infinite number of points on a curve has been useful during my career. A PID controller for example.

Who knew back then I would use them latter in life to automate my homebrew beer rig.

 

[TyCorr]

Just to help the guys freaked out by 200% nozzles a bit more this truck has 250/200s and its running on the stock pcm in this video.

Dont mind me talking. The video was made to send to another guy having rompy idle issues.

http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/t... Uploads/20160717_182403_zpsyiy9wa8r.mp4.html

 

[superpsd]

I can toggle between the bypass position on my hydra to my daily tune and the idle does not even change one bit. As the idle areas of the maps are almost unchanged from the factory calibration and it idles smoothly. On one of the camping trips this year pulling my camper over the cascades the cel came on and it started loping and idling like **** and smoking /running hotter pulling a grade. Pulled the code at the next exit and it was ICP out of range. The ICP pigtail connectors locking clip was broke and had wiggled out. Pushed that sucker back in an it returned to a perfect idle.

I refined my daily tune. I had been slowly pulling PW and slowly increasing ICP desired. Now I can be lugging along at 1100 rpm and nail it and get only a slight gray haze taking off. Still have some refining to do but it is far better now than it was an now longer blacks out those behind me if I put my foot down too far too soon. Or accidently forgot to downshift etc...

 

[cleatus12r]

I can toggle between the bypass position on my hydra to my daily tune and the idle does not even change one bit..

Because "00" is not supposed to "latch" until the key is cycled off and then on again ...just like the "nS" setting.

 

[TyCorr]

Comments read. And appreciated. But I thought this idle was supposed to be a nightmare? Ive always had nice clean tunes from Bill so Ive just never thought to test but my son and his buddy smashed my chip with a soccer ball so the truck has been running around with no tuning fir three weeks. Other than the jittery, jerky bs when its in overdrive at lower rpms and the icp is on then off then on then back off it drives fine. Trans is not pleased. But thats a different story.

 

[superpsd]

Because "00" is not supposed to "latch" until the key is cycled off and then on again ...just like the "nS" setting.

It's been a while since I had done that. You are likely correct. I have ran it in position 00. I have also ran it in position 01 which I had loaded the factory calibration then toggled to my daily tune. And there is no change. The only major difference is the factory tune is set for 580 ICP at idle and I set the idle area ICP to 600. I literally just built off of a performance canned tune and only had to adjust a few maps mostly just ICP,PW. The tuning has much to be refinwd but very little was needed to maintain drivability and smoke control. I even threw it in stock position 01 and drive it around and as long as you were light on the pedal it drove and idled like a stock truck. Granted if you laid the pedal down you would unload a ton of fuel as the stock tune is calling for a maximum of 4ms and no where on my daily map is there more than 1.8ms if I recall.

Edit: I just jumped in my truck. I see you can toggle over to the 00 and it blinks like it's latched. Kinda hard to tell the difference when it idles the same with a stock calibration.

 

[cleatus12r]

The "nS" blinks too.....but doesn't come into play until the next key ccle.

 

[79jasper]

That's how mine works.
Position 01 is 1000 rpms high idle.
If I go into 00 it stays at high idle.

That's just how it's supposed to work.

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[superpsd]

The "nS" blinks too.....but doesn't come into play until the next key ccle.

I knew about NS being locked out for obvious safety reasons and I had tested it before but did not know about the bypass being locked out as I had only toggled over one time. The main point was the factory calibration runs my 200% nozzles like factory nozzles.

how come no one makes a 300% over nozzle?