Does any one have a write up for changing 7.3 valve springs and pushrods? Anyone have torque specs? How do you tighten rocker arm on a 7.3?
Remove all IC piping.
Remove both VCs.
Using a 10mm & 11mm deepwell socket, remove 8 glow plugs.
Using something like a mcdonalds straw, push straw down into gp hole until you feel top of piston.
*Tip-Do not use a close hangar. I did..on the first cylinder. I accidentally slightly bent it so removal took some gentle fishing to get it free. This can cause an upset stomach, create new swear words, airborne tools, and mucho angst. Moral of story, don't use anything you wouldn't mind becoming trapped inside the cylinder.
Use a 26mm socket to handcrank motor over until you see TDC on the cylinder with the straw in the gp hole.
Pull rocker arm assembly off.
Remove pushrods.
I used the Rotunda (T94T-6513-AH) 303-483 tool below to remove the valve springs. Awesome tool.
Installation is reverse.
*Tip-Have a magnet near by to snag the retainers.
*Tip-ensure your new pushrods are fully seated in the lifter, before and during the reinstallation of the rocker arms.
*Tip-ensure you triple check the UVCH harness connections (injector and VC sides)
*Tip-ensure your pushrods don't have a lifter/rocker specific end. I used Smith Bros from Swamps, and was told it didn't matter which side was installed to what. Use a dab of engine assembly lube on both ends of the pushrod prior to assembly.
*Tip-Ensure you are actually at TDC by physically pushing down on your straw, and ensuring the straw isn't just snagged or hung up. You'd likely never forget the sound a dropped valve makes if you got to hear it. :jawdrop:
Some steps illustrated here from Diesel Innovations.
Tq specs from above are:
Valve cover retaining bolts and nuts 8 ft. lbs.
Rocker arms are 20 ft lbs
Glow plugs 14 ft lbs
Are you going to measure installed height and shim? If so, indicate such, and folks with experience doing that can post up on that for you as well.