Which link arm kit

smokinstroker

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Those of you buying a 4 link be prepared to buy a hellwig or other upgraded sway bar as you WILL encounter more body roll.

There is a reason the "3-link" adjustable radius arm is designed around the factory arm.
The geometry, steering, sway bars, etc. are designed around this. And the radius arm actually helps keep the truck centered and stable.

I have ran both 4 and "3 link" like Jared. So take it for what it's worth.
 

TripleE44

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Josh (River City Diesel) has been manufacturing and selling a 4 link since 2007.

Pretty sure the ORIGINAL drop in 4 link for stock trucks came from him, as the old school Donahoe Racing kit accommodated only a 4" Lift up IIRC

Forgot all about those. I'm pretty sure you're right about them being first too.

Those of you buying a 4 link be prepared to buy a hellwig or other upgraded sway bar as you WILL encounter more body roll.

There is a reason the "3-link" adjustable radius arm is designed around the factory arm.
The geometry, steering, sway bars, etc. are designed around this. And the radius arm actually helps keep the truck centered and stable.

I have ran both 4 and "3 link" like Jared. So take it for what it's worth.

When I had 4 link I thought it was fine without the bar. Now that I have a 3link I totally agree. Much more stable feeling.
 

Breaking Habits

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Forgot all about those. I'm pretty sure you're right about them being first too.



When I had 4 link I thought it was fine without the bar. Now that I have a 3link I totally agree. Much more stable feeling.

Sorry if I sounded like a prick towards you, I wasnt trying to be brotha, I just realized i worded it kind of ****ty.

I do feel that 3 Links and 4 links do all have their places. A 4 Link will keep things planted, but the body roll is increased, and bump steer usually follows

For a dedicated competition truck, it will reduce travel and keep the suspension planted. My pulling truck has one on it, its also gotten less than 1000 miles in the last year.

3 Link owners will rave about the tighter steering feel you get, also, with a properly designed 3 link, the articulation is greatly increased. Its an overall WIN WIN design, and it helps take the slop out from the factory radius arms, reducing slop and wheel hop with good shock use! We all have to remember one key thing. Tire pressure and shock usage is very important. Incorrect tire pressure on a perfect track with a 4 link or 3 link will still hop like crazy.

Jared
 

2good2Btru

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Sorry if I sounded like a prick towards you, I wasnt trying to be brotha, I just realized i worded it kind of ****ty.



I do feel that 3 Links and 4 links do all have their places. A 4 Link will keep things planted, but the body roll is increased, and bump steer usually follows



For a dedicated competition truck, it will reduce travel and keep the suspension planted. My pulling truck has one on it, its also gotten less than 1000 miles in the last year.



3 Link owners will rave about the tighter steering feel you get, also, with a properly designed 3 link, the articulation is greatly increased. Its an overall WIN WIN design, and it helps take the slop out from the factory radius arms, reducing slop and wheel hop with good shock use! We all have to remember one key thing. Tire pressure and shock usage is very important. Incorrect tire pressure on a perfect track with a 4 link or 3 link will still hop like crazy.



Jared


Jared thanks for explaining this but let me ask, how do you go about getting the tire pressure for the track. I always thought you lowered the front to about 35-40 and the rear to about 25-30
 

3brorce

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Never heard of these. Who offers this 4 link? Tried to google it but found nothing.

Flight Fabrications. Miles is developing his own 4 links. Has been building single tubes and ladder bars for sometime now. Beech runs his bars.
 

BBottoms

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Sorry if I sounded like a prick towards you, I wasnt trying to be brotha, I just realized i worded it kind of ****ty.

3 Link owners will rave about the tighter steering feel you get, also, with a properly designed 3 link, the articulation is greatly increased. Its an overall WIN WIN design, and it helps take the slop out from the factory radius arms, reducing slop and wheel hop with good shock use! We all have to remember one key thing. Tire pressure and shock usage is very important. Incorrect tire pressure on a perfect track with a 4 link or 3 link will still hop like crazy.

Jared

Does a 3-link make that big a difference? You retain the same geometry as the stock arms so the only two advantages I see to a 3-link are finely adjustable camber (vs offset bushings) and that you drop the frame mount bushing in place of a solid heim. If you can adjust your camber to within specs with the stock arms, then the only advantage is dropping the frame mount bushing, which is the 'slop'.

Not doubting anyone's claims and I haven't run either set up being discussed, just curious what I'm missing. If it makes as big a difference as it sounds, the 3-link needs to move up on my 'want' list.
 
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smokinstroker

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Jared thanks for explaining this but let me ask, how do you go about getting the tire pressure for the track. I always thought you lowered the front to about 35-40 and the rear to about 25-30

For the track I've gone down to even 30 in the front and 20-25 in the rear (might be a hair low)
If your looking for piling info, I'm not your man. Jared or Morgan at Midwest is who you should talk to.
But Jared describes the 4 link vs "3 link" great.

The response in steering on the 3 link vs 4 link alone is a huge factor.
 
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Breaking Habits

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Jared thanks for explaining this but let me ask, how do you go about getting the tire pressure for the track. I always thought you lowered the front to about 35-40 and the rear to about 25-30

I dont have the drag racing side like Chris does. I look at it from sled pulling

With my BFS's I run 17 PSI in the front and 65PSI in the rear. You never want to lower your tire pressure in the rear sled pulling. The rear almost acts as a pivot point, and most of your downforce is at the rear wheels.
 

Jeff@Spartan

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When I ran my best time in my 6.4, I had 25 psi in the front and 22 psi in the rear. I cut a 1.66 with factory radius arms and CalTracs. Would have loved to see what I could have done with a short arm 4-link kit and Trevor's traction bars.
 

Beechperformance

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Jared I think it was more that David and OUO aggre to sponsor my truck then totally went back on his work. After I made adjustiable suspension stops.

Side note Jared can my name be brought up without you talking ****???

So I worked with miles on a speical set for my truck. Ones he had not done before. Because he is local and makes top notch parts.


To be fair I believe they are friends but could be wrong.
Josh you are corect we are friends.
 

3brorce

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I Did not mean to start drama. Miles is top notch for sure.
 

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