Which oil?

wildbillcody97

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Since my truck has turned into my DD again and I'm at my 250k oil change what oil is the best. Back to contracting and am putting a lot of miles on the old girl ahain . Have been running Rotella T 15-40 what my uncle runs in the big rigs so far has been good but is there anything better?

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jimdawg185

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Lubrication Engineers 8800 or 8854. Do oil sampling every 10-15k and leave it in until the oil sample deems it needed (ie the add pack is low). We go 60-80k on 8800 in over the road trucks and buses. 600 hours plus in loaders and dozers. usually 30-40k on a 7.3 is average change interval. Many live well past 600k I have personally seen 3 go to 900k plus. You can't buy a better oil, period.
 

Aljay

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I run the Valvoline diesel oil I use the dino version I change it at 3500 miles.
I have delo in it right now. I need to get my sample and send it off.
I quit using rotella due to it being crap by about 3000 miles. They changed the formula several yrs. back it shears pretty bad ,there is an oil thread on PSN.
 

Aljay

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I run Amsoil, 15k mile intervals.

Nice I used to have an amsoil rep bring his truck in every month without fail with the same issue. His truck would not run the long drain intervals,he would argue every time. I would change his oil and it would run like it ought too.
I hate it when people push the it has this additive pkg and that snake oil.
What alot of people fail to understang about these HUIE engines is they need clean un-areated oil no BS additive pkgs.
 

ToMang07

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Nice I used to have an amsoil rep bring his truck in every month without fail with the same issue. His truck would not run the long drain intervals,he would argue every time. I would change his oil and it would run like it ought too.
I hate it when people push the it has this additive pkg and that snake oil.
What alot of people fail to understang about these HUIE engines is they need clean un-areated oil no BS additive pkgs.

Not sure what you're trying to get at....but the synthetic amsoil doesn't get aerated. In fact it runs great the entire service of the oil. And I run it....hard. I do use an oversized/upgraded filter, but other than that nothing special. All UOA's have come back positive.
 

Aljay

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Not sure what you're trying to get at....but the synthetic amsoil doesn't get aerated. In fact it runs great the entire service of the oil. And I run it....hard. I do use an oversized/upgraded filter, but other than that nothing special. All UOA's have come back positive.

Not trying to get at anything other than some oils dont work so well in PSDs.
I disagree with your statement about synthetics not aerating, case and point was said amsoil dist. personal truck.

Ive seen LE do well ,lucas diesel oil, I run the diesel Valvoline with great results. My truck seems to be really hard on oil could be injectors or Modded HPOP ?
 

02BigD

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What HPOP are you running?

On edit; nice to see you posting Aljay. Seems like its been a while sir, hope all is well with you.
 

Aljay

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What HPOP are you running?

On edit; nice to see you posting Aljay. Seems like its been a while sir, hope all is well with you.

All is well trying to get a few things done so I can work on my truck. I have an adrenaline on it now. Adrenaline is great but my sticks are thirsty muthas.
 

Bugman

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I have always ran Valvoline 15w40 since my truck was new with no problems. I started with All Fleet and then switched to Valvoline Premium Blue. My oil analysis has come back saying to run it to 7,000 miles between changes but I do it at 5,000.

If your truck runs fine on Rotella there really isn't any need to change unless you want to go to a full synthetic.
 

wildbillcody97

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Is there a big difference going to full synthetic on an engine this old? Is 5-40 OK to run it doesn't get real cold around here maybe 3 or 4 times a year under 10 degrees but from november to febuary has been in the mid 20s for the past couple years.I don't know that much about all the diesel oils.Just want something good since I have to have the truck to make money.

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Bugman

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Cost, a full synthetic will just about double your cost for a oil change. On the plus side you can run it longer so it is about a wash. The big thing is that you want to have an analysis done to see how the oil is holding up weather it is synthetic or regular dino and when to change it.

There are really two groups of thought on it. Those that love synthetic and those that like dino. I happen to like dino and really see no need to change over even if it does get down below a -20 at times where I live. Some claim that a switch to a lighter weight oil will cause leaks but I personally think that those leaks were there in the first place but who knows.
 

jimdawg185

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Let me repeat. 30-40k oil drain intervals. 600 to 900k on the motors. Nothing more than a couple of injectors between the three 900k plus motors. All on LE or Amsoil.
The good oils do not foam when they get old. The only thing you need to be aware of is depleting additives. Without the add package, your oil will not preform as well. No snake oil or mystery to it. The more specific elements in an oil the better it protects. It also cost more to put those additives in it. Phosphorus is one, Mobile puts one third the phosphorus that we do n our oil, that makes the oil more robust but more expensive. Base oils are also important. Chevron, Shell, Valvoline, Mobil are first and foremost fuel manufactures. Their lubricant base oil is what is left over from the lucrative fuel business. Amsoil, Lubrication Engineers and the like can pick where their base oils come from. HUGE difference in performance when all the variables are accounted for. It all comes down to chemistry and tribology.
 

jimdawg185

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Is there a test kit for the oil analysis or do I need to send it somewhere?

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You can order them online. Polaris Labs runs our private label program. It is a really nice program. We track million dollar turbines in power plants with them.
 

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