Which was would you...

[6speedsd]

Go about doing studs cab on? Seriously...I'm within a couple mths of doing mine. I don't have access to a lift. No way to get the cab in the air. So it's getting done in my driveway. I've seen where guys remove the EVAP box and jack up the engine from one side to the other to get the clearance they need. This was the way I had initially planned. Seen where others just pull the motor....now I'm considering this route. How much of a pain is it to pull the motor? I know the front end needs to come apart, which doesn't seem all that complicated...just time consuming. But othe than that, how hard is it to get that big bish out? Seems like that way would be easier and less of a headache than trying to pull the heads.

If you had to do it either of those ways, which would it be? And don't say pay someone with a lift to do it. I'm not paying huge labor rates for a job I can do myself.


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[SlowSmoke]

I would pull the motor personally, it's not too bad and at least when the heads and studs go in you won't be fighting with the hvac box etc. That way you can ensure everything gets installed properly and your not trying to wrestle heads in and end up wrecking a gasket.

 

[ghohouston]

definitely pull the motor. you should be able to have it out in 5ish hours (if youve never pulled one)

 

[KCTurbos]

I think guys doing it cab on with the motor in the truck are CRAZY!!!

I am not an auto mechanic... but with a buddy I can usually have the motor out and on a jack stand in about 1.5-2 hours.

You don't have to pull the whole front clip. I leave the grille, condenser, bumper, etc... on.

I pull the power steering pump and a/c pump and leave them dangling so I don't have to drain them.



It is SO nice to work on the motor just sitting out on a jack stand. It is easy to get to everything and no bending/hunching over the fenders/motor the whole time. It really makes working on the motor a lot more fun IMO.


Going back in usually takes all day with breaks and taking it easy.

 

[bretferd]

If you need to have it done in a weekend I would say in cab. If you have a week or two I would pull the engine. I've done both methods.

Advise, if pulling the engine, I would leave the wiring harness on the engine if you pull it. I think its 3 plugs on the driver side and then both positive battery wires on each side. Also make sure you have a 5.5mm socket for the grill bolts. Take the up pipes off before removing the engine. When removing transmission lines from the radiator make sure to use the quick disconnect tool and not remove the nuts. It took me about an hour to remove the hole front end for the first time I've ever done it.

 

[Cutting-Edge Diesel]

In cab is not that bad at all. you just have to know how to do it. I do all my stud jobs in cab. I pull the front end apart. Grill header panel, radiator every thing. also pull the heat shield and inspection cover off the HVAC box to get to the pass side easy. The bottom back bolt on the drivers side you can ether dent the cab or what I do now is use the snap on tool made for the 6.0 stud jobs and then you can get to it. I use a hoist to lift the heads with the rocker box and exhaust manifolds on. I run a small chain threw the middle 2 injector holds in the rocker box. I can have the heads off in about 4 hours

edit: I swing the AC condenser over and lay it over the passenger side fender so you dont have to recharge your ac. like the truck on the left

like the one on the right

 

[01PSD]

It blows.. Having help is nice

 

[6speedsd]

I'm seriously considering pulling the motor. I have another truck to drive, so I won't be in any rush to get it back together. Just seems easier with it out...I hate laying in on top of this thing, or over the fenders.

What is this Snapon tool you speak of?

I've been told at one time you need a special socket to get the TC bolts out...something about a short one isn't deep enough, but a deep one is too deep. Any truth to that?

And about how much does this long block weigh, minus accessories.


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[Cutting-Edge Diesel]

I'm seriously considering pulling the motor. I have another truck to drive, so I won't be in any rush to get it back together. Just seems easier with it out...I hate laying in on top of this thing, or over the fenders.

What is this Snapon tool you speak of?

I've been told at one time you need a special socket to get the TC bolts out...something about a short one isn't deep enough, but a deep one is too deep. Any truth to that?

And about how much does this long block weigh, minus accessories.


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you dont have to with all the front removed you just stand on the ground and your right in front of the motor. never have to lay or lean over anything. Ive pulled and installed alot of motors too and this is easier than pulling the motor. IMO



here is the tool

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...682220&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

 

[6speedsd]

So that tool allows you to get the stock bolt loose. But without tilting the motor, how do you get the bolts out/studs in?


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[Cutting-Edge Diesel]

You can do it with out the tool it just makes it easier.

I pull them out a few inches and put a zip tie on them to hold them up. Don't forget to do the same with the studs in the holes that need it when your putting the heads back on

 

[94.5 Stroker]

I know a guy that does all of em cab on and doesn't tear the front end apart like that either. He uses a cherry picker to remove/install the heads. You just have to know what studs need to be held in the head before you set it back on the motor.

 

[6speedsd]

This is how I had originally planned on doing it. But I've just hear the back two in either side are a pain. Hence, jacking up an tilting the motor, removing hvac box, etc.

I actually pulled the rad and IC a couple mths ago when I did my oil cooler. With that an the fan out of the way, you can stand in there and it helps.

I'm just trying to decide which was is easier in the long run. I don't mind doing it either way...and I'll have plenty of time to fool with it. Just don't want to start one way then halfway through wish I had went the other route.


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[Cutting-Edge Diesel]

Don't know if you caught that you don't have to remove the HVAC box in my original post. But there is a inspection cover that a lot of people don't know about that you can remove and you don't have to take the box out. If you decide to go the in can route

 

[6speedsd]

I guess I did overlook that. What am I looking for? The black box itself under the hood? But that only takes care of the pass side. Will a good dent really give me all the clearance I need on the drivers?


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[Cutting-Edge Diesel]

On the HVAC box there is a silver heat shield. You can remove that. And behind that there is a cover. You take the screws out. Not sure how many I wanna say 10 or so. Then you can access the passenger side bolts.


You really don't have to put that big of dent depended on how big the head on your torque wrench.

 

[semperfidooordie]

Matt, thanks for the great info and link to that Snap On tool. This is going to be super helpful for when I do mine

 

[6speedsd]

:whs

Tons of useful info. Can't thank you enough.


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[suprdzlduty]

Matt, you're one of the few that provide an easy way to do it cab on...what else should we expect from a guy that builds compounds in his sleep...lol

 

[bretferd]

I'm seriously considering pulling the motor. I have another truck to drive, so I won't be in any rush to get it back together. Just seems easier with it out...I hate laying in on top of this thing, or over the fenders.

What is this Snapon tool you speak of?

I've been told at one time you need a special socket to get the TC bolts out...something about a short one isn't deep enough, but a deep one is too deep. Any truth to that?

And about how much does this long block weigh, minus accessories.


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When I did the TC nuts I just used a short socket (9/16 I believe) and a 1/2" breaker bar. Tilt the socket into the inspection hole and angle it to 90 degrees when going onto the nut. Pain in the rear but it gets the job done.