Window stuck down

PStroked444 · Oct 7, 2011

Well Im 7K miles from home and my wife tells me the window on the truck is stuck down. It has done this once to me years ago. But after just letting it set for 30min it went back up. She said it has sat over night and wont go up. Any suggestions. Getting to cold out to drive with the window down. Thanks.

CJ

GreasyFingers · Oct 7, 2011

Does it sound like it's getting power, is it just binding? If so the felt needs a good spray od silicone and the inner tracks need some lythum grease. My windows were slow to come up, then finally stopped. I would have to pull on the top edge while hitting the button till I cleaned and lubed everything. Now they work just fine.

If it's an electrical problem I would first check the switch plug. Can your wife use a multimeter?

PStroked444 · Oct 7, 2011

Ok got some more info. She says she can hear a relay clicking. But it is not moving. So it has power. Thats a start. It just wont go up.

PStroked444 · Oct 7, 2011

Thanks for the ideas Fingers. I have done that in the past. Maybe its a bad spot on the motor...similar to starter. Then you beat it and it startsLOL

CJ

PStroked444 · Oct 7, 2011

well it went up. Any ideas n why it did this??????:shrug:

CJ

MAC · Oct 7, 2011

Sounds like the window motor is the problem, relays clicking, but the motors not engaging.

I'd take the motor out and see if any water has gotten in it, or if any connections are corroded.

Also when greasing electronic parts never use automotive grease, always use electrode grease or petroleum jelly, I always use petroleum jelly cause it's cheap.

Charles · Oct 7, 2011

A lot of times the wiring between the body and the door gets chaffed up or broken and it's almost always the window. You have to look inside the little black corrogated rubber loom. It's been the passenger's side door both times I've seen this.

Next time if the truck is pre 01, pop the trim panel off (on that door) and run a jumper straight from the door lock switch power to the one of the switch legs for the window switch (one is up, one is down). If it tries to roll down switch to the other leg. I have rolled them up this way before in a pinch.

TRUBBS · Oct 7, 2011

Charles said:
A lot of times the wiring between the body and the door gets chaffed up or broken and it's almost always the window. You have to look inside the little black corrogated rubber loom. It's been the passenger's side door both times I've seen this.

Next time if the truck is pre 01, pop the trim panel off (on that door) and run a jumper straight from the door lock switch power to the one of the switch legs for the window switch (one is up, one is down). If it tries to roll down switch to the other leg. I have rolled them up this way before in a pinch.

The leg on the plug up where it plugs into the switch or on the motor? My power window switch has quit working & I "hot wired" the window down to make sure the motor work & now it's stuck down & raining

PStroked444 · Oct 8, 2011

WOW. Thanks for all the help. When I get the chance I will certainly look into all that was suggested. Anyone know how much a motor costs for the window? Just asking.

CJ

JLDickmon · Oct 9, 2011

about $85 from NAPA... don't forget to get the rivets for the motor-to-regulator and regulator-to-door..

PStroked444 · Oct 9, 2011

Thanks. I will look into that. THanks for the help.

CJ

Arisley · Oct 9, 2011

Lots of good info here. Personally, I would replace the relay first. For a check, you could swap it with any other relay on the truck, they are almost all the same one. I like to use the blower motor relay for a test relay.

Charles · Oct 10, 2011

TRUBBS said:
The leg on the plug up where it plugs into the switch or on the motor? My power window switch has quit working & I "hot wired" the window down to make sure the motor work & now it's stuck down & raining

In the past I have jumpered power from the power leg on the door lock switch to the power leg on the window switch. Then use the window switch itself to either roll the window up or down as you see fit.

TRUBBS · Jan 22, 2012

Charles said:
In the past I have jumpered power from the power leg on the door lock switch to the power leg on the window switch. Then use the window switch itself to either roll the window up or down as you see fit.

How would one go about checking the wiring in the doors? Im out of ideas as to what my problem is so I think that's my problem...

Atsah · Jan 22, 2012

I just put a new FORD motor in and it came with the actuator for $57.00

PStroked444 · Jan 22, 2012

Thats good to know thanks for the heads up...!!!:rockon:

Charles · Jan 23, 2012

In both cases I've dealt with of this, neither time was there a thing wrong with the actuator, switch or any involved circuitry. In both cases the wiring was broken in the area where the door meets the body and was simply not giving power to the switch.

Before I coughed up the money for new electronics parts that they probably will not take back, I would verify that I did in fact have power at the switch first.