Work truck project

ncollins64 · Mar 21, 2015

Thanks for the link. I checked it out but after looking at mine I don't think it will fit. I'll post a pic of mine

ncollins64 · Mar 21, 2015

Pic

Here's my steering wheel. 97 xlt with just horn buttons

ncollins64 · Mar 21, 2015

Pic

Here's another. Mine doesn't go back as far on top as the one in the link.

Diesel_Brad · Mar 22, 2015

ncollins64 said:
Well I'm still searching for a horn pad. Does anyone have any methods or ideas on stripping and polishing factory alcoas? Think one has been barley bead blasted but the others are in decent shape. Would aircraft remover be best then polish like crazy? Any steps and or pics would be nice thanks

Do NOT media blast unless you want to west sand for HOURS on each wheel. Just use paint stripper until all the clear is gone, then wetland corroded spots with 800 grit, then polish

rusty1161 said:
Horn pad http://m.ebay.com/itm/271807354577?nav=SEARCH

Rusty

Yes, that is the correct horn pad for a 94-97 F250/F350

rusty1161 · Mar 22, 2015

ncollins64 said:
Here's my steering wheel. 97 xlt with just horn buttons

It looks to me like someone swapped your steering wheel or the whole column. That's not a 97 XLT steering wheel.

Rusty

ncollins64 · Mar 22, 2015

rusty1161 said:
It looks to me like someone swapped your steering wheel or the whole column. That's not a 97 XLT steering wheel.

Rusty

Lovely. I just assumed it was sfock. So I need to get a whole new steering wheel or column or what? If just a new wheel would all the wires be there be hook ups? And thanks guys. If I get the wheels I'll do those steps brad.

Jason · Mar 22, 2015

I kinda prefer the wheels like you have, honestly. Same wheel in the '90-93 fox body mustangs, and that is used in the half ton trucks.

ncollins64 · Mar 22, 2015

I was only wanting to change so I can add cruise? Is there a way to keep my current wheel and add cruise or is changing the whole wheel my only option?

Jason · Mar 22, 2015

The wheels of that era had the cruise between the spokes. As if you wrapped your hands around the 3 and 9 positions, they would be right at your thumbs. I am pretty sure you need to replace the wheel for that to work. But iirc, a new wheel from Ford is not that spendy.

mandkole · Mar 23, 2015

Diesel_Brad said:
Do NOT media blast unless you want to west sand for HOURS on each wheel. Just use paint stripper until all the clear is gone, then wetland corroded spots with 800 grit, then polish

Agree... just went through this on the factory 20s. NO media.

Also, know that if you re-clear coat, the wheel better be perfect. Any scratches or wheel marks will not be covered up/filled with the clear.

gnxtc2 · Mar 23, 2015

If the column was swapped, I think there would a different clock spring due to the air bag.

The steering wheel is from a F-150/Bronco. They had airbags while the F250/F350 didn't.

You could also swap in a SD steering wheel but you'll need to swap in the SD clock spring. The cruise buttons on the SD wheel light up.

Billy T.
[email protected]

RSK · Mar 23, 2015

Great thread, i'm wanting to make my 7.3 tow rig around 400whp and its almost at 300,000 so it could use new injectors and a turbo and few other upgrades

cbf9703 · Mar 25, 2015

RSK said:
Great thread, i'm wanting to make my 7.3 tow rig around 400whp and its almost at 300,000 so it could use new injectors and a turbo and few other upgrades

I've got one with about a hundred thousand on that, people can't believe how good it runs and how clean it is for the mileage. I like the new shiny trucks, but it's still fun to play with the old ones.

ncollins64 · Apr 12, 2015

Electrical problem

Ok so I was checking my fuses today and did find one bad. It's the fuse in D slot. It's a 25 amp fuse. Well I didn't have a 25 at the moment so I put a 30 in. Well drove to town tonight and when I got to the parts house I turn the truck off and lights off but the dash lights stayed on and the running lights. Well I pulled the fuse and all the lights went off and went in to get a 25. Put it in and it still did the same thing. Well I left the fuse and pulled the trailer marker lamp relay. It turned everything off and everything works as it should like pulling the fuse did. Any ideas??? I'm assuming I'll need that fuse and relay for my trailer lights but I'm just trying to figure out "why" my dash and running lights are staying on when everything is turned off. I'm not much on the electrical side of things but does anybody have any tips or experienced this?

ncollins64 · Apr 12, 2015

And just to be clear I've never had any kind of trouble before this whatsoever.

ncollins64 · Apr 12, 2015

And one more thing I just found out is when I switch my tank selector switch it blows the fuse for it also? Guessing the rocker switch itself is bad because it's not switching tanks either.

gnxtc2 · Apr 13, 2015

I would say the selector valve is bad. Had the same thing happen when I had a 6.9 IDI work van.

Billy T.
[email protected]

ncollins64 · Apr 13, 2015

the selector valve on the frame? If so I'll call sunrise today. Any idea on this dang fuse problem? Thanks

gnxtc2 · Apr 13, 2015

I don't have my shop manual in front of me to look at the schematics. Just off the top on my head, check the trailer plug for any corrosion which might back feed into the dash/running lights.

Yes, selector valve on the frame. Unplug the valve, replace the fuse and flip the switch. If it does not blow the fuse, the switch is probably good.

Going off the top of my head, I think the OEM selector valve is pricy. There is another selector valve from Ford that can be used at a lower cost. Do a search on PSN.

Don't just throw parts, diagnosis first and then fix the issue.

Billy T.
[email protected]

ncollins64 · Apr 13, 2015

l try that tonight. If the fuse still blows maybe the rocker switch? I also gotta pull my lower water neck off and reseal it since it sometimes leaks and sometimes doesn't.