Ruggles518
New member
Hi I’m looking for a airdogg 2 for a 06 f250
-
1) What are you selling?
2) What is its condition?
3) Where are you located?
4) What is your asking price?
5) Pictures/videos?
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WTB airdogg 2
- Thread starter Ruggles518
- Start date
Mhatlen
New member
Are you Crazy man !! ?
The AirDog II had more problems the the 6.0 and 6.4. Pump issues wiring issues o-ring issues relief valve issues they all fail. Unless you like to walk a lot go with another plan.
I have a FASS 125 Titanium Pump on my 2006 since 2012. People are also using 6.7 fuel pumps with good results.
Air Dog 165 GPH G-4 pumps are their latest and greatest yet I have seen people having problems with this one too. The G-4 is a complex design that is direct replacement of stock OEM pumps. AirDog designed the unit to be capable of using the OEM 5/16 and 3/8 supply lines which can’t supply 165 GPM. The way they pull it off is the pump does not regulate pressure by use of spring check return line back to tank. Only a small vapor returns to the fuel tank on these models. Instead the pump recirculates the fuel from pump output to engines upper bowl what’s not used by engine is returned to primary filter and is again run to the pump. It churns around the pump to supply side at lower fuel draws. When engines WOT the churn stops and pulls fuel from fuel tank at a slower rate then the 165 GPH is pumping into engine.
They pull this off by using primary filter #1 it’s backup supply to pump at WOT inputs.
AirDog banking on WOT inputs are limited and filter won’t go dry.
Then as engine slows so does fuel and filter fills again next few minutes from the 3/8 stock supply line ready for high flow levels again.
Time will tell how these hold up but as of now the pudding is fresh still. But the prior pumps all were one failure after another. That’s no joke.
The AirDog II had more problems the the 6.0 and 6.4. Pump issues wiring issues o-ring issues relief valve issues they all fail. Unless you like to walk a lot go with another plan.
I have a FASS 125 Titanium Pump on my 2006 since 2012. People are also using 6.7 fuel pumps with good results.
Air Dog 165 GPH G-4 pumps are their latest and greatest yet I have seen people having problems with this one too. The G-4 is a complex design that is direct replacement of stock OEM pumps. AirDog designed the unit to be capable of using the OEM 5/16 and 3/8 supply lines which can’t supply 165 GPM. The way they pull it off is the pump does not regulate pressure by use of spring check return line back to tank. Only a small vapor returns to the fuel tank on these models. Instead the pump recirculates the fuel from pump output to engines upper bowl what’s not used by engine is returned to primary filter and is again run to the pump. It churns around the pump to supply side at lower fuel draws. When engines WOT the churn stops and pulls fuel from fuel tank at a slower rate then the 165 GPH is pumping into engine.
They pull this off by using primary filter #1 it’s backup supply to pump at WOT inputs.
AirDog banking on WOT inputs are limited and filter won’t go dry.
Then as engine slows so does fuel and filter fills again next few minutes from the 3/8 stock supply line ready for high flow levels again.
Time will tell how these hold up but as of now the pudding is fresh still. But the prior pumps all were one failure after another. That’s no joke.
Last edited:
Ruggles518
New member
That’s good to know
Mhatlen
New member
When I needed a fuel pump every AirDog Pump in the country was pulled of the shelves. At that time it was a o ring failure issue. Now they back their stuff up but it’s been bad with one thing after another.
I was told the new FASS pumps called Titanium were solid and a big improvement for FASS.
Funny thing was the FASS pumps were worse then the AD pumps and I was worried about buying a FASS.
But I did and I remember how much more power truck got from it. But my stock pump was dropping on pressure and didn’t know till it ate up a injector. Mines 5-6 years and smooth quiet and 75 psi at pump and 65 up top what’re throttle I give it holds to the pressure.
So I would see what model AD pump you get, if it’s older ADII I would look it up on the web and see if it’s problematic model. The newest version the G4 seems to be solid I have only seen a couple of guys have a problem. Funny thing is a buddy of mine was one of them and he’s done buying their pumps. He’s gone thru 3 or 4 in last 10years.
But they always exchanged them with a new one. lol .that would fail later on him.
Make sure you run proper cable size for power or bigger if it’s not a complete kit for the truck. With the spring check regulator pumps a upgraded size line all the way into fuel tank is key. These trucks have either 5/16 early 3/8 05 on to the factory pumps and too small,
Even a 125 GPH cavitates from lack of fluid. Pump out spins the fuel available and you can audibly hear the cavitation which will take out the pump in time. So a large draw tube or sump is the key.
The AD G4 can suck out of a straw more or less since the pump is washing fluid in circle through it’s filters at low fuel demands. Then it’s drawing a vacuum pulling in fuel as needed. Pretty slick design as long as it holds up. I believe they use brushless motors in the G4 too which is a great thing only bearing failure will kill it.
FASS is running standaard motors but they are big efficient heavy units.
So there you have it, look it up and keep your purchase paperwork for any issues.
I was told the new FASS pumps called Titanium were solid and a big improvement for FASS.
Funny thing was the FASS pumps were worse then the AD pumps and I was worried about buying a FASS.
But I did and I remember how much more power truck got from it. But my stock pump was dropping on pressure and didn’t know till it ate up a injector. Mines 5-6 years and smooth quiet and 75 psi at pump and 65 up top what’re throttle I give it holds to the pressure.
So I would see what model AD pump you get, if it’s older ADII I would look it up on the web and see if it’s problematic model. The newest version the G4 seems to be solid I have only seen a couple of guys have a problem. Funny thing is a buddy of mine was one of them and he’s done buying their pumps. He’s gone thru 3 or 4 in last 10years.
But they always exchanged them with a new one. lol .that would fail later on him.
Make sure you run proper cable size for power or bigger if it’s not a complete kit for the truck. With the spring check regulator pumps a upgraded size line all the way into fuel tank is key. These trucks have either 5/16 early 3/8 05 on to the factory pumps and too small,
Even a 125 GPH cavitates from lack of fluid. Pump out spins the fuel available and you can audibly hear the cavitation which will take out the pump in time. So a large draw tube or sump is the key.
The AD G4 can suck out of a straw more or less since the pump is washing fluid in circle through it’s filters at low fuel demands. Then it’s drawing a vacuum pulling in fuel as needed. Pretty slick design as long as it holds up. I believe they use brushless motors in the G4 too which is a great thing only bearing failure will kill it.
FASS is running standaard motors but they are big efficient heavy units.
So there you have it, look it up and keep your purchase paperwork for any issues.
Last edited:
sootie
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2012
- Messages
- 11,843
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why not just run a 6.7 pump? OEM reliability and plenty of flow/pressure. Sub 400.00 to boot...
Mhatlen
New member
That’s a better idea then ADII IMHO. I threw it out there for him too.
I think he’s committed to one already.
I think he’s committed to one already.
Ruggles518
New member
Not committed to anything yet this has been all good info is there any threads on 6.7 pump on a 6.0
So overall this is a very easy job if someone wants to do this.
I started off by disconnecting the fuel lines to the 6.0 fuel pump let them drain into a 5 gal bucket. Next I drop the skid plate and drop the tank. For tank disconnected the filler neck at from the bed and then break free the hard tube from the rubber on the tank. Next I drop the tank with about 1/4 tank still in there. This is best done with 2 ppl. One lower the jack and one to steady the tank. Once you lower about 6-8 in you can reach up top and disconnect the fuel lines and plug for sending unit.
Once drop the tank, elevate up and use the pilot hole in hole saw for sump to drill a hole to drain the tank. There a spot just below the sending unit. On bottom of tank there a spot that that has a circle and seems to be a good spot for sump. But don't use that go in front of it and use the flat surface. 1/4 of fuel is about 2 five gal buckets. Once fully drain use hole saw and drill rest of hole for sump. After Open the top of the tank and clean thoroughly to make sure.you get all the plastic. Next clean bottom of the tank with scotch bright and sand paper. Install the sump. For the sending unit I cap the original return line and now use the old feed line as my return. I took the tube and bent it backward and to the left away from the sump. Then I reinstalled sending unit. I used a 1ft 3/8 hose to old feed hard line. From the 3/8 hose I installed a 3/8 to 1/2 double barb.
Reinstall the tank. But wait on the skid plate till the end just in case you have leaks.
That was the hardest part.
Now remove old pump and lines. Also remove the adapter the the fuel bowl. Once everything out of the way install the m14 to 8 an adapter to the feed port on fuel bowl and the m16 to 8 an adapter on return port. I used teflon on the 8an side and installed the 90 degree 8an to 1/2 in barb to both. Next I took orange paint and painted the threads on the 6.7 mounting bracket. I placed mine just behind the transfer case inside the frame. I used the paint to mark up where I needed to drill my holes. After you drill holes mount pump. If the bracket doesn't have nuts you can use the old 6.0 pump nuts.
After everything install all the 1/2 line.
Wiring is very simple. I used a jegs 30amp pump relay kit. I install my relay under the hood next to my driver side battery where my air filter used to be. Run the 10 gage red wire to circuit breaker to the positive side of.the battery. Grey to a good known ground. Yellow I believe was to switch power. Cut the old plug off the old pump make sure its the 12v wire and solder it together. If you cut the wif sensor wire it won't work it only supplies 4-5v. Lastly run the purple wire to the 6.7 pump. I used a female wire connector to connect to the pump. Also run a ground wire from the pump to a good known ground. Solder everything but shrink tube and wire loom all wires under the truck. I believe right prong in 6.7 pump is the power and left neg.
It should only take couple of turn of the key to prime the system. Do not start just turn and let pump build pressure. Oh don't be a dumb ass like me and forget to put o ring on 6.7 pump cap or it won't prime. Once prime crank her over and look for leaks.
Im sure I'm forgetting things but if have any questions pm me I'll be happy to assist.
Whole thing took about 5 hrs if don't have any leaks or priming issues.
I started off by disconnecting the fuel lines to the 6.0 fuel pump let them drain into a 5 gal bucket. Next I drop the skid plate and drop the tank. For tank disconnected the filler neck at from the bed and then break free the hard tube from the rubber on the tank. Next I drop the tank with about 1/4 tank still in there. This is best done with 2 ppl. One lower the jack and one to steady the tank. Once you lower about 6-8 in you can reach up top and disconnect the fuel lines and plug for sending unit.
Once drop the tank, elevate up and use the pilot hole in hole saw for sump to drill a hole to drain the tank. There a spot just below the sending unit. On bottom of tank there a spot that that has a circle and seems to be a good spot for sump. But don't use that go in front of it and use the flat surface. 1/4 of fuel is about 2 five gal buckets. Once fully drain use hole saw and drill rest of hole for sump. After Open the top of the tank and clean thoroughly to make sure.you get all the plastic. Next clean bottom of the tank with scotch bright and sand paper. Install the sump. For the sending unit I cap the original return line and now use the old feed line as my return. I took the tube and bent it backward and to the left away from the sump. Then I reinstalled sending unit. I used a 1ft 3/8 hose to old feed hard line. From the 3/8 hose I installed a 3/8 to 1/2 double barb.
Reinstall the tank. But wait on the skid plate till the end just in case you have leaks.
That was the hardest part.
Now remove old pump and lines. Also remove the adapter the the fuel bowl. Once everything out of the way install the m14 to 8 an adapter to the feed port on fuel bowl and the m16 to 8 an adapter on return port. I used teflon on the 8an side and installed the 90 degree 8an to 1/2 in barb to both. Next I took orange paint and painted the threads on the 6.7 mounting bracket. I placed mine just behind the transfer case inside the frame. I used the paint to mark up where I needed to drill my holes. After you drill holes mount pump. If the bracket doesn't have nuts you can use the old 6.0 pump nuts.
After everything install all the 1/2 line.
Wiring is very simple. I used a jegs 30amp pump relay kit. I install my relay under the hood next to my driver side battery where my air filter used to be. Run the 10 gage red wire to circuit breaker to the positive side of.the battery. Grey to a good known ground. Yellow I believe was to switch power. Cut the old plug off the old pump make sure its the 12v wire and solder it together. If you cut the wif sensor wire it won't work it only supplies 4-5v. Lastly run the purple wire to the 6.7 pump. I used a female wire connector to connect to the pump. Also run a ground wire from the pump to a good known ground. Solder everything but shrink tube and wire loom all wires under the truck. I believe right prong in 6.7 pump is the power and left neg.
It should only take couple of turn of the key to prime the system. Do not start just turn and let pump build pressure. Oh don't be a dumb ass like me and forget to put o ring on 6.7 pump cap or it won't prime. Once prime crank her over and look for leaks.
Im sure I'm forgetting things but if have any questions pm me I'll be happy to assist.
Whole thing took about 5 hrs if don't have any leaks or priming issues.
Mhatlen
New member
That’s awesome Decker, it does take some work to put in a better pump. But it’s worth it in the long run over the stock ones. Pretty common for the stock pumps to start loosing pressure over time and most are unaware. Till injectors start going bad from it.
If you have any pictures I’m sure they would love to see them. Even completed shots give so many answers to where exactly and how. The best thing about the 6.7 pumps is they are all over the country on shelf’s at parts houses and Ford dealers if you need one. AD and FASS pumps you are stuck where you sit until it’s sent to you.
Nice write up very well done.
If you have any pictures I’m sure they would love to see them. Even completed shots give so many answers to where exactly and how. The best thing about the 6.7 pumps is they are all over the country on shelf’s at parts houses and Ford dealers if you need one. AD and FASS pumps you are stuck where you sit until it’s sent to you.
Nice write up very well done.
