Recent content by kornfanjoe

It all started out as a rough idle while cold, good warm. then started knocking cold, good warm. then it rapidly turned into a rough idle with an occasional knock and white smoke. this ONLY happens at idle, and it now happens most of the time but not all the time. this leads me to believe it's...

Are your mirrors full manual? I believe (but may be wrong) that the earlier year mirrors without the extra power features had a different plug. But the 1A mirrors would be easy to hard wire except running clearance light wires

I ran the "performance" sct tune for a few days until I ran Matt's Srl+. The canned tune was very smokey, slow and didn't shift even remotely as well. It doesn't even compare and a custom tune is well worth the $50 Sorry for not putting info but a custom tune will feel way better

It isn't necessary if you drain the system and remove the components. I needed to to keep the system charged. Also excursions have rear a/c lines that run down the body that I had to loosen to get enough slack to do this. Again this is an excursion so there are slight differences.

You can see by the box on the cab portion that the rear a/c condenser (atleast on excursions) are way too close and has to be removed

I've heard from several threads it's possible to loosen motor mounts to clear access driver side without denting but I find it's easier to take a hammer and bar it doesn't take very much just a slight dent. Nothing noticeable as the heat shielding covers it up. Passenger side I'm pretty sure...

I personally just used a die grinder and cut out the old tty bolt with a vice grip on it so it doesn't fall. Then slightly dent the firewall and the stud fits easy. Passenger side I removed the a/c box, inner fender, shock and a bunch of stuff to clear room. I would allow some extra wiggle time...

id plan for 2 days and do any other upgrades if not already done,the rear bolt driver side is a pain in the ass

Just throwing in my $0.02, I did my stud install one at a time over 40,000km ago and besides towing my truck has never changed from my Srl+ tune installed the day after I completed the studs. I let my truck cold soak for a whole day before touching any stud just to ensure they were fully sealed...

Studs, stc, dummy plugs and all that yea I'd say those are worthwhile upgrades and not very labour intensive except for the studs. The whole point is to fix things BEFORE its necessary. I've never heard of swapping valvetrain components from a 6.4, just curious what made you think of that...

Cause he probably isn't gonna fully rip apart an engine with only 50k on it

You get 13 towing? I only get 13-15 in the city empty lol That's awesome is that tune what you run all the time or do you swap to a street file?

And I'm assuming that's with a single turbo? I don't necessarily mean towing power, I would be perfectly fine with 400-450 towing but what I mean is on a custom tune would it be unreasonable to make 600 and still be able to swap tunes and tow heavy.

You need to have some regular interval inspection or something? We are getting rid of our emissions testing in a few months ( of course I had to still pay for mine last week...) But some are saying we may go to yearly inspections :doh:

See my post below, I modified it to pass visual inspections, with zero performance impact! Also if you wanted to keep your cat and have a true 4" turbo back you can do this ( minus gutting) and fit 4" pipes on either side