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A zip kit isn't something you "throw in." Check the various pressures and pay attention to how the gauge behaves when shifting. Check the grounds. if these are acceptable, the valve body may be worn; a trans shop can test but would likely want the complete vehicle.

You also need to confirm proper torque on ALL suspension hardware. Do not guess. Do not hammer away with an impact. Use a torque wrench and the Ford specs. Your arm is not calibrated. If you find loose hardware, do not assume that is the culprit. Continue until all the fasteners have been...

You may have a refrigerant leak; likely the evap as it is a common failure on MY11 and 12. The system will not attempt to engage the compressor unless there is a minimum amount of pressure. You'll need to confirm that the compressor works, the clutch is functional and the gap is correct, but...

Make sure the condenser is clean. Check the system pressures. An undercharged system can display this behavior.

Lug nuts are 165 ft-lbs. Radius arm at frame is 222 ft-lbs.

Rotors and calipers are larger. Steering knuckles also have a wider mount to accommodate the caliper.

Check the ball joints as well.

Trac bar ball joint is a major culprit that is often overlooked. Also, confirm proper torque on the trac bar mounting bracket (that is, bracket to sub-frame) as well- 129 ft-lbs. If loose, inspect for worn bolt holes. The M20 bolt (bushing end) is 406 lb-ft, ball joint stud is 187 lb-ft.

The 2012 is compatible. You will need to change controller settings via the dash screen. The 2006 may or may not be, depending on the actuator. Ask the google machine.

Well then, in my general experience the answer is-- buy a brake pedal assy from a hydroboost equipped truck. Every hydrobooster I have seen has a stud pattern that differs from the vacuum. I do not think it is worth the time to rearrange the studs and fab a push rod.

Confirm that the push rod will connect with the factory brake pedal assy and that the stud pattern is the same. You may need to source a pedal assy from truck that was factory equipped with a hydraulic booster.

No, I moved strikers around the cab until I found an arrangement that worked. I was not about to cut the captured nuts free and widen the bolt holes. The score is upgraded to a meh.75/10. :poke:

Forscan will show DTCs that do not display a CEL.

You are welcome. I forgot to include that the torque spec is 470 lb-ft and to use med strength (blue) thread locker. It is crucial that the flange nut is properly torqued. Use a known weight and leverage that the very least; better to borrow a 3/4" drive torque wrench. To answer your second...

You can almost certainly pull the flange yoke and install it on the new axle. Otherwise, you will need to determine the u joint size. The D 80 could have 1410 or 1480 u joints.

I give this a meh/10. No where near the claimed improvement. On the upside, my left rear door now consistently opens from the outside. Previously, the exterior handle did not unlatch the door with every opening.

Motorcraft/Spicer.

Ebay would be your best bet. LMC truck carries a limited selection as well.

You would need to splice a switched power source into the reverse light wire. That is, connect a power wire from the upfitter switch to the reverse light power feed. I strongly recommend that you do not do this. The truck is CANBUS controlled. Back feeding power to the Body Control Module will...

The pass through wires are blunt cut segments. You must connect the switch wiring to the pass through. What exactly are you trying to accomplish with the reverse lights? https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q-117R2.pdf