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Yeah I gotta get on that… I have glow plugs, wire harness for valve covers etc all sitting in the garage…I should get those installed eh?

For sure, and I have one but when she’s down in the non powered barn it’s great she starts

Yeah but the amazing thing is they start in cold temps… mine starts better than my 7.3 powerstroke, to be fair I need to do glow plugs but for an engine with no heaters they fire up in the cold

Good point… can’t wait to see how much air your going to throw at it… the stock turbo is quickly overrun by the existing stock pump at full rack travel.

For the starter, it requires a 7.3 powerstroke starter, I think I used a 99. I only used a stock one because I didn’t have enough room to use the high torque type. For the rear Main… if got the McBee (going from memory on that spelling) it should have had two parts >> the seal itself and a...

Yeah and getting the ring off the crank and installing the new one is a real peach. I hate the thought of hitting the crank peeling off that speedisleeve

I had the same concern in the runaway, let me know what you find on the air shut off, for now I’m just packing a CO2 extinguisher jic,,, not for any fire (well I suppose it could be) but to shut down all combustion no matter where it comes from

It really shouldn’t matter on the placement of the intercooler high or low from an efficiency standpoint… the cfm’s will far outweigh any loss of efficiency due to heat migration or Brownian motion in air

Sooo I went off the farm for intercooling… I have a water to air intercooler that sits in the direct path from hot side to cold side… it was its own water supply and pump … i mounted twin small radiators on the front to keep the coolant cool while moving, did decrease exhaust

Sooo I went off the farm for intercooling… I have a water to air intercooler that sits in the direct path from hot side to cold side… it was its own water supply and pump … i mounted twin small radiators on the front to keep the coolant cool while moving, did decrease exhaust temps

Ah ok, yeah that will be some shoehorning for sure… barely had enough room on the exhaust side to be off fender well … it was all tight over there and next to the firewall

So you have me thinking, how are you providing oil supply to the twin setup. Are you just splitting the original output to both ?

Well all ya gotta do is double stock numbers if that DTA and you are close, although the inline 6 has a whole different power curve and they are so much smoother. I prefer it to my 7.3 power stroke BUT it’s tired and I’m getting ready to do a rebuild

Yeah I gotta be honest, I just don’t need that much hp. I’m not towing, I might load the bed down with a few thousand pounds to haul stuff and it’s fine for that.

Now there is an option I wish I would have known about! I did the relocation kit which is fine but it’s more stuff going on that side of the motor, on The upside I mounted back on the frame rail that is easy to get to and it cools the oil a bit

If I remember all in was about 1500 to have the pump reworked for more out put… I would have to look and see who quoted me that but I think it was in the 300hp range

Nice! My intake plenum if flipped upside down so I could run plumbing over the top with a water to air intercooler in between. Saved me some plumbing and welding pipe

What are you doing for fueling? The stock pump won’t be able to keep up with the twins, there is an adjustment for rack travel at the back of the pump but even with the adjuster completely removed I can’t really outpace the stock turbo. You can get them completely reworked but it was an arm and...