1999 7.3 wont start where to begin?

[GDSchafer]

Okay to start out with I know nothing about diesels so please forgive my stupidity! Although I have done a little work on cars snowmobiles motorcycles etc so I do know how to turn a wrench but this is my first diesel and its a little intimidating. Alright I bought this truck (1999 F-250 XLT) in non-running condition for a pretty decent price (I think) and not sure where to begin. The auctioneer I bought it from said he started it up and drove it about 200 yards just at idle speed (wouldn't rev up) and it died and would not restart, someone told him it sounded like a computer or injector issue. I checked and the fluids are all up, the oil looks good (doesn't look like chocolate milk or smell like diesel fuel) but I did notice a fuel leak underneath. I took a picture cause I'm not sure what the part is called its leaking from, kinda looks like a fuel filter?And there is two wires on the right side of the pic that are not connected to anything

. And the second picture is up top I see two things not hooked up, one looks like a vacuum line and the other is just an electrical connector

. 3rd and 4th pictures are inside, one is a tuner controller? And a toggle switch for something?

Any help you guys can give me is greatly appreciated!

 

[BigAlsPSD]

The first picture is the fuel pump.

The second is the fuel bowl heater, it's fine to not plug back in, and many including myself have deleted it as if it fails it will kill the truck and blow the fuse for the PCM relay.

The third is a DP tuner switcher for controlling various tunes on a chip installed on the PCM.

Toggle switch? Who knows, maybe a 10k mod(old cheap tuning trick) or lights or who knows.

 

[ToMang07]

First things first...
Fuel pump is the first pic as said, looks like it's disconnected tho. Next is check all your fuses.

If you find any blown, check the manual (I can link you where to get one if you don't have one.) and let us know which ones are popped IF the pop again.

Next check the batteries, both the cables themselves, connections, and test them to make sure they are strong/charged.

When the key is turned on, the fuel pump should run and fill/pressurize the fuel bowl. If not, I'd start there.

Also, the "Wait to Start" light should come on for 15 seconds or so and go off. If it doesn't you have a computer issue. (Could be fuse.)

Last thing is does the Tach move when you turn it over?

Check engine light stay on?

 

[GDSchafer]

Okay just went out and checked and maxi-fuse #19 under the hood is blown and according to the manual that is the fuel pump and PCM? Also took a better look at the fuel pump and it looks like there where two posts for those wires but one of them is broke off. And a question about the DP tuner, is there a certain number it should be on when starting the truck or doesnt it matter?

 

[moose99psd]

you need to order a fuel pump, a local parts supply house should probably have one. the cheap does not matter what position. to me the initial issue sounds like its fuel pressure related.

 

[GDSchafer]

Is this a good one? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...ex_18770576-p?searchTerm=fuel+pump#fragment-1

 

[moose99psd]

airtex makes some good stuff, alot of OEM pumps.

 

[TARM]

Given it has a DP tuner it may have been run hard. Replace the fuel pump as was stated if its dead but before you run it more than just for testing I would replace all the fluids and filters. Flush all the systems.

Engine Oil and filter
Transmission Flush and filter
Transfer case
Power Steering Flush
Differentials
Fuel Filter
Brake Flush

For testing see how much blow by comes out of the oil fill cap cold and once the engine is warm. Borrow a scanner see what codes if any the PCM has logged and do a contribution and buzz test. Record the codes clear them and see what comes back. Certain ones especially with a chip can be disregarded such as high boost.

If its an automatic my main concern would be the condition of the transmission and tq converter as many that have chipped their trucks tend to run them hard.

 

[ToMang07]

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/m...RRD&Product_Code=GZ-21-006&Category_Code=sale

 

[Magnum PD]

The one pic at the fuel bowl with the electric connector, the hose that is off that looks like a vacuum hose is just the fuel bowl drain line.

 

[moose99psd]

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/m...RRD&Product_Code=GZ-21-006&Category_Code=sale

very good call

 

[GDSchafer]

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/m...RRD&Product_Code=GZ-21-006&Category_Code=sale

Is this one actually better? I thought I read somewhere the Bosch was just a rebranded Airtex?

 

[ToMang07]

Is this one actually better? I thought I read somewhere the Bosch was just a rebranded Airtex?

It is the OEM pump....they are considered very reliable. I have never heard that about Airtex.

 

[GDSchafer]

Well found a place I can get the Airtex for $50 locally so Im gonna get that tomorrow then probably pickup a Bosch for a backup once I get the truck running.

 

[ToMang07]

Well found a place I can get the Airtex for $50 locally so Im gonna get that tomorrow then probably pickup a Bosch for a backup once I get the truck running.

You sure it has a fast enough flow rate and is diesel capable?

 

[GDSchafer]

Yup it's made for diesel and the gph is 35-45 which I believe is right around the stock pump.

 

[Arisley]

Stock is 60 GPH. A quart every fifteen seconds.

 

[TARM]

!00% go with the BOSCH. While the Airtex does OEM and that pump will work I have compared the Bosch to a number of other pumps and it is a better quality pump all the way around. There are Bosch on some 7,3 that have 300K 400K on them and still going.

And NO this Bosch pump is not a rebranded Airtex. Not doubting that some warehouses may have done that but Bosch makes these pumps and its on the label. Get the Bosch from Rif or local or go to a salvage yard and pick one up for $10-$20.

 

[GDSchafer]

!00% go with the BOSCH. While the Airtex does OEM and that pump will work I have compared the Bosch to a number of other pumps and it is a better quality pump all the way around. There are Bosch on some 7,3 that have 300K 400K on them and still going.

And NO this Bosch pump is not a rebranded Airtex. Not doubting that some warehouses may have done that but Bosch makes these pumps and its on the label. Get the Bosch from Rif or local or go to a salvage yard and pick one up for $10-$20.

I plan on it but I just wanted one to use temporarily till I get the Bosch cause I'm impatient. Well it runs now http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/images/smilies/clappin.gif haven't had a chance to test drive it but after cycling the pump about 15 times yesterday it started up and sounds good. little white smoke at first but cleared up after a little while. I did the oil cap test and it doesn't move at all when idling. I did start it up again this morning and it cranks longer then it should before it starts up might be cause the fuel tank isn't very full though. I will test drive it later today and if it runs and drives good I'll do all the fluid/filter changes.

 

[TARM]

I hope you changed out fuel filter and drained the bowl before hand. If not go pickup a motorcraft/Racor or donaldson filter and drain and clean out the bottom of the bowl as I bet its nasty.