910 valve springs

obs7.3 · Jul 27, 2012

I've been thinkin about putting in the Comp cams 910 valve springs, when I order the valves do I need new push rods or are the stock ones strong enough?

fatsix · Jul 28, 2012

obs7.3 said:
I've been thinkin about putting in the Comp cams 910 valve springs, when I order the valves do I need new push rods or are the stock ones strong enough?

You need to give some more information first. Planned mods, current mileage and budget.

I would at least check the stock ones for straightness and wear, because you're already there.

7.3psd97444 · Jul 29, 2012

If your gonna do calce springs theres no sense(to me) in NOT getting the pushrods also. Ive seen more bent pushrods then I can count. If I were you, I would do all the head work at once. Studs, springs, pushrods. And maybe a little P&P.

davey99ps · Jul 29, 2012

Im running wipeout pushrods in my truck, but I also remember Andy (Arisely) saying he upgraded springs but left his stock pushrods in. If I remember correctly, his reasoning was he'd rather have a cheap an easy to replace pushrod be the weak point instead of something more expensive breaking. I guess it depends how much hp your after an how hard your pushing your truck

obs7.3 · Jul 29, 2012

Okay. Im at 183k miles. Signature has my mods and my only other planned mods are traction bars and if anything maybe a d66. i kinda doubt I'll change the turbo unless my stocker craps out. the only reason I'm doin valves is cuz the heads gotta come off to put new manifolds on so i figured I'd stud it and change the valves while the heads are off. I'm not looking for a crazy powerhouse truck i just want some piece of mind and reliability out of mine and some basic upgrades but after the exhaust is done the truck be right where i wanted it to be when i bought it

7.3psd97444 · Jul 29, 2012

obs7.3 said:
Okay. Im at 183k miles. Signature has my mods and my only other planned mods are traction bars and if anything maybe a d66. i kinda doubt I'll change the turbo unless my stocker craps out. the only reason I'm doin valves is cuz the heads gotta come off to put new manifolds on so i figured I'd stud it and change the valves while the heads are off. I'm not looking for a crazy powerhouse truck i just want some piece of mind and reliability out of mine and some basic upgrades but after the exhaust is done the truck be right where i wanted it to be when i bought it

If this is the case then I would get both springs and pushrods

fatsix · Jul 29, 2012

Uhm, you should avoid taking those seasoned head gaskets off by any means, unless you are going to rebuild.

7.3psd97444 · Jul 29, 2012

Hopefully he does studs and new hg's too

davey99ps · Jul 29, 2012

7.3psd97444 said:
Hopefully he does studs and new hg's too

Like fastsix said, if there's nothing wrong with the hg's, your better off doing studs 1 at a time an leaving the seasoned hg's in.

7.3psd97444 · Jul 29, 2012

davey99ps said:
Like fastsix said, if there's nothing wrong with the hg's, your better off doing studs 1 at a time an leaving the seasoned hg's in.

This is true. But if hes planning on doing valves, valve springs, and pushrods then the heads will be off.

Nodge · Jul 30, 2012

No reason to remove the heads.

obs7.3 · Jul 30, 2012

the only reason the heads are coming off is because the manifold bolts are about rotted all the way thru between the block and manifold. the heads of the manifold bolts are seized to the manifold so their probably going to break. or round off. that's what i figured just from me looking at it. when i took it to a few performance shops all of them said the same thing "heads have to come off to get those manifold bolts out". there's not enough bolt left for a stud remover to grab the bolts to get them out of the head if the bolt heads are cuts off so their going to have to be drilled.
i know it's not good to pull the heads unless the gasket is blown but i've got new head gaskets for it. like i said, i figured while the heads are off i'll stud it and do the valve work. unless someone has another suggestion? i'm open to anything. i just want this done right.

fatsix · Jul 30, 2012

I don't think you will be able to get the head gaskets to seal properly, no matter how and what you torque them with. I'd pull the fenders off and the inner fenders. There will be plently of room to access the bolts. If not, pull the engine. IF you were to cut all the heads off of the exhaust bolts, to not break them, and remove the manifolds. Is there enough bolt sticking through so you can weld a nut on? Or drill them out as you stated.

fatsix · Jul 30, 2012

7.3psd97444 said:
This is true. But if hes planning on doing valves, valve springs, and pushrods then the heads will be off.

If he is planing on doing that, then he better plan on blown head gaskets and a rebuild. This isn't the same as a 6.0 HG job.

obs7.3 · Jul 30, 2012

fatsix said:
I don't think you will be able to get the head gaskets to seal properly, no matter how and what you torque them with. I'd pull the fenders off and the inner fenders. There will be plently of room to access the bolts. If not, pull the engine. IF you were to cut all the heads off of the exhaust bolts, to not break them, and remove the manifolds. Is there enough bolt sticking through so you can weld a nut on? Or drill them out as you stated.

i don't have all the equipment at the house to pull the engine, yet alone a spot to do it.... that's why i was going to take it some where. but there's not enough clean metal to weld a nut to, it's rust. by the time i found a spot to weld a nut to i don't think the bolt would be strong enough to be twisted out of the head.
i'm trying to learn as this thread goes along...

fatsix · Jul 30, 2012

obs7.3 said:
i don't have all the equipment at the house to pull the engine, yet alone a spot to do it.... that's why i was going to take it some where. but there's not enough clean metal to weld a nut to, it's rust. by the time i found a spot to weld a nut to i don't think the bolt would be strong enough to be twisted out of the head.
i'm trying to learn as this thread goes along...

Sounds like you have bigger problems than you think. How is the oil pan, oil cooler?

7.3psd97444 · Jul 30, 2012

People take Heads off 7.3s all the time to do head work...then NEW hg's and STUDS. Torque the studs several times how you rsapposed to at the right intervals and you will be FINE. Since the heads are coming off....no doubt in my mind you shoudl do both springs and pushrods.. and no matter what studs. Easy and you will happy when its all done. Peace of mind is a wonderful thing, and if you do it all RIGHT, you should have just that.

fatsix · Jul 31, 2012

7.3psd97444 said:
People take Heads off 7.3s all the time to do head work...then NEW hg's and STUDS. Torque the studs several times how you rsapposed to at the right intervals and you will be FINE. Since the heads are coming off....no doubt in my mind you shoudl do both springs and pushrods.. and no matter what studs. Easy and you will happy when its all done. Peace of mind is a wonderful thing, and if you do it all RIGHT, you should have just that.

At stock power level they do.
Fresh stock head gaskets still pop with studs.
Stock head gaskets need 10-20k miles to bond fully.

For what he has now, and his "maybe plans" for a d66 with baby swamps, he doesn't need studs. I would exhaust every option before taking those heads off. Start with pulling the fenders off. If you need more room, yank it, you'd be half way there with the fenders off. The money you would save from not taking those heads off, would buy the cherry picker and an engine stand. On Craigslist you can get both for $300.Most people would loan it to you, because its constantly in the way in the garage. As far as the room to do it? Meh, Sucks. Friends place? If you have to take them off, it might be cheaper to buy reconditioned heads, vs paying the labor for someone to drill remove and tap every exhaust manifold bolt hole.

IF your exhaust bolts are that bad, chances are other stuff is rotten. Check the oil cooler, and oil pan. How about some pictures of these rotten manifolds?

obs7.3 · Jul 31, 2012

i'll try to get some pictures, and about this time a year ago i resealed the oil pan and checked it, it was fine, and put new gaskets and orings on the oil cooler, again, checked it and it wasn't bad.
the d66 won't get on my truck unless the stock one can't be rebuilt but the stock turbo is fine, i just had it off in december to put new oring on it.

obs7.3 · Oct 17, 2012

alright. for the record. the heads came off. they got the 910 springs, new valve seals, new exhaust manifolds, ARP head studs and head gaskets. the heads were sent to a machine shop for the block side and manifold side to be taken care, the top of the block was level and flat. i've put over 1000 miles on it since this was all done and no problems. International and Ford both have NEVER had constant problems resealing heads on these engines unless the block is not level or the head is warped or cracked. mine is running great and has no more annoying exhaust leaks. just thought i'd throw it out there for everyone.