A1000 Fuel System Parts List

[HobbyStock62]

Basically, I can get everything I need for a little over a grand using all braided line and aluminum an fittings. That is tank to pump to heads to regulator and back. Just wondering if there are any last revisions I should make before ordering everything up. Here is the list...

Part Number Number Needed Price Per Part Total Price
A1000 Fuel Pump 11101 1 $339.97 $339.97
Regulator 13129 1 $139.97 $139.97
-10 an to -10 an o ring SUM-220164B 1 $9.97 $9.97
-10 an hose end SUM-220090 2 $8.97 $17.94
Baldwin Filter Base FB1311 1 $29.40 $58.80
Baldwin Water Seperator BF1252 1 $25.10 $25.10
Baldwin Fuel Filter BF 7633 1 $13.06 $13.06
-10 an o ring to -10 an o ring MP-3011 2 $25.97 $51.94
-10 an o ring to -8 an SUM-220162B 1 $9.97 $9.97
-8 an hose end SUM-220890 2 $6.97 $13.94
-8 an y split to -6 an SUM-220108B 1 $26.97 $26.97
-6 an hose ends SUM-220690 10 $4.97 $49.70
90* -6 an to 12mmx1.5 949092ERL 4 $14.97 $59.88
90* -6 an to -6 an 499206-BL 2 $12.97 $25.94
-6 an o ring to -6 an SUM-220166 1 $7.97 $7.97
-10 braided line 10 feet SUM-230010 1 $64.97 $64.97
-8 braided line 6 feet SUM-230806 1 $29.97 $29.97
-6 braided line 20 feet SUM-230620 1 $74.97 $74.97
$1021.03

Missing anything? Any parts I should change out with others?

 

[bootcamp]

Beer?!?!?!

 

[ford rules]

May want some 45*fittings also just really depends how you run the lines.

 

[HobbyStock62]

haha, beer is always in the fridge! maybe ill grab some 45s just to cover everything. think it should go pretty smooth, ill have it down to the frame when i do this because im doing studs and all that fun stuff at this time. also gunna sand frame and paint it

 

[Binder man]

A1000 delete? looks like a solid list. I'd probably sub a FuelLab for the A1 and add a sump

 

[HobbyStock62]

I'm in between fuel lab and a1000. Can't decide. Give me a couple of pros cons if ya can! Plan on doing a 5/8 draw straw so that I can just use the factory sender and tap into return on the sender too.

 

[Binder man]

A1's are damn good pumps don't get me wrong. But you can get a fuel lab that is a diesel pump and brushless. An electric motor really the brushes are the only wear item other than bearings. There isn't much price difference between the two and fuellab sells a diesel pump now. Draw straws aren't bad just don't run them below a 1/4 tank unless you retain the factory "bowl" in the pump to help keep it submerged in fuel, that is the only real downfall to a draw straw.

 

[ford rules]

Define diesel pump? Most pumps on fuelabs site are rated for diesel. In my experiences anything that will handle gas will handle diesel.

 

[Binder man]

Yes they should as diesel does have more lubricating qualities than a gasoline does. However I still believe that certain pumps when diesel fuel is ran through them have a shorter life span. Maybe its just me overthinking things, because I have no hard proof to support it, but thats just been my experience.

 

[Pizza pig]

diesel fuel while lubricative is far more susceptible to contaminates and growths like algae etc. but then again Im not a scientist or an engineer. The brushless motor wins every time in my book which is why i recommend fuelab.

 

[Mdub707]

Hows the viscosity differ from diesel to gas?

I'd go fuelab too, and sump.

 

[Marty]

How are you mounting it?

Where is the 5/8" pickup tube stuff on that list?

 

[HobbyStock62]

mounting it on drivers side frame under the cab somewhere in between the filters. any other place to mount or other ways of mounting let me know.
Im not 100% sure what I am doing from the tank yet. Probably going to decide when I have it all apart, but would rather do a draw straw of some sorts. There is a kit with a flexible tube and a chunk of aluminum that takes the factory senders place with suction and return ports. Or I would just get a piece of 5/8" line and flare the end and put a 90* fitting on it and run my -10 from there. sump is a possibility, but ehh...dont really know about that. would rather just use the factory hole i guess.

 

[Binder man]

I Personally would sump it. I love my sump in my truck. I have ran the thing below E so many times when a draw straw I would be stranded.

I would mount the pump with AN fittings going to each filter base so If you do have to change a pump your not fighting a cluster if you hard pipe it or use hose barb and have to cut the line.

I used factory Superduty mounting brackets on mine and you can't even hear them run, vibration is a killer to any electrical component so make sure to isolate the vibrations as much as possible.

I haven't looked at Marty's fuel systems in a long time but I know he has great reviews on his stuff, and I know he wouldn't sell you junk.

I don't know the viscosity off the top of my head, but viscosity at temperature is another matter as diesel fuel thickens incredibly whereas gasoline not so much.

 

[HobbyStock62]

Maybe I'll just sump it. With me, I would rather have one hole in the tank vs two. My really a reason, just my OCD I guess. Using all an fittings. Is it easy to use the factory brackets, or should I just make a bracket for it? Honestly haven't even looked at stock pump, it's gunna be down to the frame this fall, figured I'd look at it then.

 

[Pizza pig]

Use Dennis' (strictly diesel) fuel pump bracket and wiring... Takes out the guesswork.


Hellen Keller sent this?

 

[strokin6L]

The bracket that Dennis sells is for the 7.3 not the 6L. I asked him about it when I got my fuelab pump from him. Gotta either modify the factory bracket or make your own.

 

[Binder man]

A fuellab is about the same diamter as a factory 7.3 pump if I remember right. Just sump it and then use your factory feed line to return.

 

[Pizza pig]

A fuellab is about the same diamter as a factory 7.3 pump if I remember right. Just sump it and then use your factory feed line to return.

Thats what i did, but i ran -6 all the way to a tube fitting on the sending unit and used an -an plug on the factory return on the sending unit and removed all the hard lines from the frame


Hellen Keller sent this?