89 Stroker
Active member
not sure if the ac controls n such changed from 89 and up but my AC hasnt been working ever sinc ei got it runnning again, possible fuse? any ideas?
AC not working?
- Thread starter 89 Stroker
- Start date
Binder man
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is the compressor kicking on? What are your AC pressures? Can you put a voltmeter on your compressor to see if your even getting juice to it?
89 Stroker
Active member
nothing comes on, witch is im assuming not getting power?
Bugman
Active member
It could also be low on freon.
POWER-STRUCK
New member
or clutch gap
89 Stroker
Active member
wheres that located?? freon would cause it to not even come on?
POWER-STRUCK
New member
it is the clutch on the front of the compressor, if gap gets larger that 0.030" it will have engaugement issues. low freon will cause it not to work but it will still click in on KOEO
89 Stroker
Active member
must be the clutch because nothing kicks on?
Bugman
Active member
I'd take the truck to a shop and have them check it. Just make sure that they know that you do not want them to do any work until you approve it. It may cost a few bucks but you'll actually find out what is going on with it.
POWER-STRUCK
New member
if the gap is too wide then you can pull the shim out and try it
89 Stroker
Active member
if its something i can fix i will try, anyone have a good pic of what it looks like as i have never had to deal with these things before
POWER-STRUCK
New member
It is on the front of the compressor and spins round and round when air is turned on
89 Stroker
Active member
thats seemed fine, just not turning on so its got to be electrical
Lethalthreat7.3
New member
Unless someone changed the clutch, pulley or coil assembly, the air gap has absolutely nothing to do with it.
The coil engagement(electrically energized and magnetically pulled in) is activated when 12 volts is sent to the coil.( two wire plug just behind the pulley on the AC compressor). The low pressure switch is located on the suction side(larger of the two lines) at the accumulator (right at the heater box). This low pressure switch cuts the compressor out when low on charge.
First locate the low pressure switch at the accumulator. Turn your AC on like normal. Unplug the lp switch and check for voltage. If voltage is present then plug it back in and see if voltage is present at the AC coil(two wire terminal on compressor just behind the AC pulley. If no power is present then unplug the lp switch and install a jumper. If power appears at the compressor then the system is off due to a refrigerant leak or possible a bad lp switch.
By jumping out the lp switch it bypasses the safety. DON'T run it for longer than 10 or 15 seconds( wont hurt anything running it for short periods BUT just jumping it will cause obvious damage even though it is running, refrigerant/lube issue).
It's an '89?
It should have R-12. If you do have a leak PM me for the proper way to convert to R-134a. ALOT of people think they know how to convert with a ton of "drop in" conversions from R-12. They work, sometimes, for awhile. There are issues with seals and o-rings but the mixing of PAG and MINERAL oils make hydraflouric acid and the aluminum pistons go through a Chernobyl event having total catastrophic meltdown.
The coil engagement(electrically energized and magnetically pulled in) is activated when 12 volts is sent to the coil.( two wire plug just behind the pulley on the AC compressor). The low pressure switch is located on the suction side(larger of the two lines) at the accumulator (right at the heater box). This low pressure switch cuts the compressor out when low on charge.
First locate the low pressure switch at the accumulator. Turn your AC on like normal. Unplug the lp switch and check for voltage. If voltage is present then plug it back in and see if voltage is present at the AC coil(two wire terminal on compressor just behind the AC pulley. If no power is present then unplug the lp switch and install a jumper. If power appears at the compressor then the system is off due to a refrigerant leak or possible a bad lp switch.
By jumping out the lp switch it bypasses the safety. DON'T run it for longer than 10 or 15 seconds( wont hurt anything running it for short periods BUT just jumping it will cause obvious damage even though it is running, refrigerant/lube issue).
It's an '89?
It should have R-12. If you do have a leak PM me for the proper way to convert to R-134a. ALOT of people think they know how to convert with a ton of "drop in" conversions from R-12. They work, sometimes, for awhile. There are issues with seals and o-rings but the mixing of PAG and MINERAL oils make hydraflouric acid and the aluminum pistons go through a Chernobyl event having total catastrophic meltdown.
Bugman
Active member
As I said before, if you don't have the proper tools to work on the AC take it to a shop and have them check it out. A few bucks spent having them look at it may save you a lot in the long run.
You can tell the shop that you just want them to inspect it and give the truck back to you so that you can do the work yourself unless it has to be compleatly recharged and then you need the tools to do it.
You can tell the shop that you just want them to inspect it and give the truck back to you so that you can do the work yourself unless it has to be compleatly recharged and then you need the tools to do it.
89 Stroker
Active member
It's just not getting power it worked perfect before I had to take the head off and such and unplug everything
Bugman
Active member
Then why are you looking at the air gap on the clutch? You could of nicked a line and lost the pressure when you pulled the head, and if that is the case then you need to find where the leak is located at. That is where you need the tools to test the AC, to see if it is electrical or pressure related.
Lethalthreat7.3
New member
Try looking at the items I listed. I can go into detail about the pressures, delta drop through the a-coil and the condenser and tell you to mount a fan to simulate 35mph going down the road but that is info overload.
Locate the low pressure cut-off switch at the accumulator. ( accumulator is the long, black cylinder located on the passenger side at the heater box. The switch screws onto a schrader fitting and has two wires. Unplug this and put a jumper here. You won't hurt anything. If the compressor engages you have either a low charge condition or a faulty switch.
Make sure you have 12v going to the pressure switch, truck on with AC running, truck doesn't have to be running, just on. You should hear the clutch "click" when it pulls in.
If this happens you will need a shop to put gauges on. I could help if you were in the Denver area. Been doing AC since '86 on just about everything you can imagine, commercial stationary, heavy mining equipment and just about every people hauler you can imagine, buses, trucks, suv's, cars, just about everything including huge commercial freezers that can't rise above -40.
Locate the low pressure cut-off switch at the accumulator. ( accumulator is the long, black cylinder located on the passenger side at the heater box. The switch screws onto a schrader fitting and has two wires. Unplug this and put a jumper here. You won't hurt anything. If the compressor engages you have either a low charge condition or a faulty switch.
Make sure you have 12v going to the pressure switch, truck on with AC running, truck doesn't have to be running, just on. You should hear the clutch "click" when it pulls in.
If this happens you will need a shop to put gauges on. I could help if you were in the Denver area. Been doing AC since '86 on just about everything you can imagine, commercial stationary, heavy mining equipment and just about every people hauler you can imagine, buses, trucks, suv's, cars, just about everything including huge commercial freezers that can't rise above -40.
89 Stroker
Active member
is it woth having ramona tire take a look at it>?
Kritter
New member
I just delt with my switch on the pump burning up in the connector. Check the conection from the swich on the pump on the pigtail/ connector.
