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Message: [QUOTE="nossliw, post: 1210498, member: 10001"] While everyone bitches about this one or that one, I will make one other suggestion. Your buddy is towing a toy hauler...so I'm guessing 14-18k lbs... have fun on any mountain pass or grade of any sort doing that with 3.73s and 35's... I’d love to see this 1800 rpm 6% grade climb at 70 mph in over drive some speak of with 14,000+ behind their truck. Sea level on the flat, doable … a true mountain pass 8000-11,000 feet, forget it. If you are running 35’s, 4:10 gears will be a nice change. Just a suggestion. I'd consider the cost perspective of all of it too. A stock S366 flows 1050cfm, billet wheel maybe 1150cfm – 580$ shipped(not knock offs) +T4 kit $$$ BASB = 1350cfm – 1375$ + T4 $$$ 38r = same as the s366 IMO - 1350-1500$? Not rebuildable So that being said I’d just stick with the 38R if you don’t want to convert. If you do convert is the BASB really worth 120% more of the cost of the 366? IMO…no. Would I choose it over a 366, yes if I could afford it. Went with the 366 instead. Coming from someone who does not use his truck as a toy but rather for towing, The 366 is a hell of a change over the stock unit. Towing 14-17,000 lbs in the CO mountains I have yet to push 1250 in a stock tune, turn it up, yes she needs a bit of water to stay within reason. Yanked that weight around over 10,000 miles last year. When out in the Midwest at a lower elevation, there was absolutely no issue on any grade with EGTs. Once again, its all in the tuning as some have mentioned. [/QUOTE]

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