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Message: [QUOTE="Mdub707, post: 904495, member: 107"] The most reliable setup is when everything is thought out and well planned, and the proper sequence of events is used. There are many factors that go into a stud job on a 6.0. The heads being flat is the biggest and most often overlooked it seems. ARP studs are just fine. What good is a higher tensile strength stud going to do? The ARP is already stronger than the block material. The only benefit I saw from using H11's with a higher tensile strength is the final torque number is lower, so for guys doing them with the cab on that could be advantageous. A1 technologies (who manufactures the H11's) closed shop last I knew anyway. The OEM gaskets are fine. In fact, most aftermarket companies are now having their headgaskets made on the same line as the OEM gaskets. The new Victor Reinz gaskets are the same gasket except they have a black seal on the gasket and OEM has blue. Made on the same line. The studs are not the problem, the gaskets are not the problem. The problem is typically the job not being done correctly. With that said, at the end of the day, you will still see gaskets give out here and there, it's going to happen when you cram a ton of air and fuel in there. The most reliable is likely just doing ARP's and OEM gaskets (or VR, or RCD's gaskets... they're all the same) and following proper procedure. Use the ARP lube, have flat heads, flat block... [/QUOTE]

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