Block Swap Help! Instruction(s) NEEDED!

[ToMang07]

The (mod) madness:

Eventually, I want an engine built in the 400-500hp range, and with PMR's.... that's not gonna happen. :badidea: I can't NOT have my truck in the winter, as I plow with it and need to get to work when the weather is crappy. I wish I did MORE research when I bought the truck. Found a low mileage 7.3.... but didn't know about Forged vs. PMR's till after. :cursing:

The Plan:

Find a forged block, and basically put a new oil pan on it, (I need a new pan, anyway, and planned to pull then engine myself to do it.) And then essentially swap everything on the top-end of my engine over to the forged block, clean/paint it, and re-install.

I wish it was THAT simple. :lame:

The Catch:

I have NO experience. None. Biggest engine I pulled/built was a 8hp Briggs off a 1960something Sears/Roebuck Tiller. And that was over 10 years ago in high school. :stupid:

So:

I need help. I have found basic threads on how to pull an engine. I need details; Step by steps. (Pics ALWAYS appreciated.) Not just in pulling the engine, but the whole process, what needs to be done to the engine, etc.

The current questions:

Do I need to remove injector cups to pull heads and swap them? (I'd need the cup-tools and new cups/sealant.) (I plan on new injector o-rings until I can get new injectors as mine are 10 years old and probably swollen.)

What years can I work with? (Blocks from 94.5-00, or just 99-00?) How much (can) get swapped over?

Any year blocks that won't work?

I'm eyeing a block out of a rolled '97 with 136k on the clock. It's a complete short block, guy says it's in great shape, wants $350 for it and it's about 150 miles from home. Only catch is I would need a cherry picker to get it out of the back of my pickup!

Current "To Do's" when out:

Melling LPOP.
Water Pump. (OEM Ford)
Head Studs.
Head Gaskets.
Ceramic Headers.
NEW Oil Pan. (OEM Ford)

(Took some from this thread: )http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10390

Take it easy on me.... Like I said I'm a noob. :stupid: And before you say "go to a shop" if I could afford it.... I still wouldn't. Won't learn anything that way. I like to learn, love to wrench, just need some teachin! :toast:

And free beer to anyone in the area who would want to help! I hope to have it done by the end of the summer, hopefully I wil have a block by the end of next month!

Thanks to all in advance... especially if you just read the whole thing. :blitzed:

 

[ToMang07]

Bumping this up...

I can get a 1 ton Cherry Picker and a 2000# Engine Stand delivered to my house for $370 from harbor Freight...

With the exception of an oil pan, manifolds and head studs... this seems to be a relatively cheap mod... cheaper than buying a long block.

I understand from talking to folks that the fuel pump hole in the OBS block needs to be plugged... not a big deal, right? The rest of the fuel stuff switches over, right?

As far as the top end stuff, Would I need an OBS compatible turbo/pedestal combo, or is there a way to use my pedestal/turbo from the SD block?

My SD manifolds/up-pipes should work fine, correct?

 

[91turbogsx]

You can swap all your SD parts on to the OBS block.

 

[ToMang07]

You can swap all your SD parts on to the OBS block.

Including the pedestal/turbo/up-pipes?

This is important because I am looking at getting the S366 Turbo and Full Superduty kit from Jake/Irate and I don't want to have to do it twice.

Is ANYTHING special needed to be done to get the pedestal to work?

Thanks for the response!

 

[TRUBBS]

94.5-e03 blocks are all the same, if you look your superduty block has the obs fuel pump hole in it to, just has a freeze plug filling it. everything will switch right over.
swap your new oil pan
all front accer's (alternator/ac pump, as the backwards from obs/sd)
heads, no need to pull the cups to swap heads unless their bad, just unbolt, switch,bolt back on.
sd setup will bolt right on if your using sd headers like stated above, otherwise you would just need the sd manifoilds (either driver or passanger side is to short on the obs, cant remeber which one tho)

if you have any comon mechanicly knowlage you can figure out how to pull the motor rather easy, it honestly is just a matter of looking at whats in the way and undoing to bolts to get it out of the way...
i did my first motor swap when i was 16, (bought a 460gasser/auto, swapped a 7.3psd zf5 into it)

 

[skew12]

I've been thinking about this myself. My PMR's scare me. But if my block goes I'll probably sell the top end and put a 6.0 in it instead.

Good luck though.

 

[ToMang07]

94.5-e03 blocks are all the same, if you look your superduty block has the obs fuel pump hole in it to, just has a freeze plug filling it. everything will switch right over.
swap your new oil pan
all front accer's (alternator/ac pump, as the backwards from obs/sd)
heads, no need to pull the cups to swap heads unless their bad, just unbolt, switch,bolt back on.
sd setup will bolt right on if your using sd headers like stated above, otherwise you would just need the sd manifoilds (either driver or passanger side is to short on the obs, cant remeber which one tho)

if you have any comon mechanicly knowlage you can figure out how to pull the motor rather easy, it honestly is just a matter of looking at whats in the way and undoing to bolts to get it out of the way...
i did my first motor swap when i was 16, (bought a 460gasser/auto, swapped a 7.3psd zf5 into it)

Yeah, my plan is to get the new ceramic coated (because rust is an issue here) headers and oil pan from Riffraff. (Probably going to line-x the oil pan.) Hopefully I'll have enough cash for head-studs left... But I can always just do that later. (Whenever I get injectors.) Thanks for the input.

I've been thinking about this myself. My PMR's scare me. But if my block goes I'll probably sell the top end and put a 6.0 in it instead.

Good luck though.

Thanks. I think the PMR's would be fine if I kept the stock injectors... but I want bigger ones. And I just can't risk windowing the block in the middle of winter. Plus if I pull it when healthy I can still sell it, or keep it as a spare if I ever have issues with the Forged Block.

 

[91turbogsx]

Disassemble your front end to the point it nearly looks like this:

Then pull the turbo, oil filter, PS pump, move AC compressor out of the way, and just remove anything connected to it. Don't forget to disconnect the torque converter if auto. That's a rough how to anyways.

 

[ToMang07]

Disassemble your front end to the point it nearly looks like this:

Then pull the turbo, oil filter, PS pump, move AC compressor out of the way, and just remove anything connected to it. Don't forget to disconnect the torque converter if auto. That's a rough how to anyways.

I wasn't sure if I had to pull the bumper, but I planned on removing the grille, intercooler and radiator.

What exactly needs to be done to disconnect the transmission? How do you disconnect the Torque converter?

Thanks for the response.

 

[91turbogsx]

You don't need to pull the bumper.

Drop the inspection cover on the trans and there will be 6 nuts or so you have to remove. Just keep turning it over to get the next nut.

 

[Chvyrkr]

6 bolts on the trans bellhousing, 6 bolts on the TC.

Thing the dust cover had three. Dust cover is 10mil, think the TC is 12mil, but I don't remember. The trans bellhousing is 3/4, or the metric equivalent.

Engine mounts are 21mil. You'll want to disconnect those where they go through the frame crossmember.

 

[Chvyrkr]

And it'll be way easier to get the engine back in, without the trans installed at all.

In reverse order, set the engine in, with the upipes on, then bolt the trans up. Leave the turbo out until the trans is in. Much easier to get the top two bolts with no turbo on.

 

[ToMang07]

Thanks for the input Tom.

I have heard people say it both ways, that "it's easier to pull the tranny first" and that "the time it takes to pull the tranny is no different than the extra time it takes to pull the engine leaving the tranny in place."

My only comment is I would think it's harder to pull the 4x4 tranny/transfer case than just the engine.

But I want to do it the right way, and If I have to pull the tranny I will. Gonna be hard without a lift tho. Maybe I should invest the extra $150 in a tranny jack, too. (already going to be buying a stand and hoist.) :lookaround:

I have 1 buddy locally that is willing to help, but he's a mustang guy, and other than heads and differentials, he's never gone this far, either.

 

[ToMang07]

And it'll be way easier to get the engine back in, without the trans installed at all.

In reverse order, set the engine in, with the upipes on, then bolt the trans up. Leave the turbo out until the trans is in. Much easier to get the top two bolts with no turbo on.

I was planning on putting the up-pipes the new exhaust manifolds with the engine out, but leaving the top-end stuff off for that reason. It's easy enough to install them with the engine in, anyway.

I should have plenty of room to do all this in the garage, it's a 2-bay and very deep, so space to move around and take my time isn't an issue, although I hope to have it DONE within 2 weeks of starting the whole project.

 

[91turbogsx]

I leave the tranny in. It takes a little work lining it back up after but it's not bad. It's easier to put everything on the motor while it's out IMO. Just leave the turbo off and that's about it.

 

[ToMang07]

Thanks. At this point that's what I'm leaning towards.

Out of sheer, morbid curiosity, anyone know how much a full short-block weighs?

(I know the long-block is around 1,000lbs)

 

[91turbogsx]

Probably 675lbs. I think I remember the heads being around 125lbs or so each.

 

[ToMang07]

Probably 675lbs. I think I remember the heads being around 125lbs or so each.

Crap. :doh:

I doubt my rafters will take THAT kinda weight. I'll have to borrow a cherry picker from someone until I can get my stand/hoist from harbor freight.

 

[Big Bore]

Do yourself a favor and get a set of factory Ford manuals, it will have all the info you mentioned earlier as needing.

As to block compatibility, pay attention to where the oil pickup is. 96 should be in same location as later model, but if its not you need to make sure you have the front cover and pan that matches the pickup. Your later model 02 front cover would be the nest one since it has the cutout at the HPOP gasket for the integral filter gasket, you cannot use that gasket in the earlier covers. There are other differences in the blocks but nothing that will matter for you.

If you are going to swap all your 02 stuff onto the early block make sure you swap the pass side exh manifold, it is different. Other than that Irates kit will replace your pedestal etc.

 

[ToMang07]

Do yourself a favor and get a set of factory Ford manuals, it will have all the info you mentioned earlier as needing.

I have these, I wish the pics were better, but they have most of the specs info I believe:
Engine Dis-assembly

Engine Assembly

Engine Specification

As to block compatibility, pay attention to where the oil pickup is. 96 should be in same location as later model, but if its not you need to make sure you have the front cover and pan that matches the pickup. Your later model 02 front cover would be the ?Best one since it has the cutout at the HPOP gasket for the integral filter gasket, you cannot use that gasket in the earlier covers. There are other differences in the blocks but nothing that will matter for you.

Not gonna lie.... you lost me now. :fustrate:

You talking about the oil pan/pickup on the bottom end?

Unless I can't, I was going to use the cover from my 02 on the 97 block...

If you are going to swap all your 02 stuff onto the early block make sure you swap the pass side exh manifold, it is different. Other than that Irates kit will replace your pedestal etc.

I intend to use new ceramic coated manifolds (99-03) OR the ones on my 02 (If I can't afford new ones.) because IF I remove them I don't dare try to reuse them, as they have a TON of corrosion. (Probably going to need new bolts, too.)

I have been led to believe that my 99-03 pedestal will work on the 97 block... is this incorrect? :shrug:

Thanks for the responses.