brake probs again!

Seabass

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I HATE having brake issues with my truck AGAIN!! I replaced both front calipers and hoses, LR caliper and the brake still drag intermittently!! what the hell is left? Master, hydroboost?
 

Arisley

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Did you replace calipers only or calipers and brackets. If you didn't replace brackets, how are the slide pin bores?
 

JLDickmon

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how do you know they drag?
Are you simply getting a pull after a brake application, or did you measure the rotor temps with an IR gun?
 

TARM

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Yep the casue of dragging brakes many times is the slider pins. All it takes it not greasing them one time or soon enough and some rust builds up on them or in the ports. You also need to ream out the ports they fit into. They get gummed up or have rust form in them. Even with new pins if its bad they will not slide smooth. A SS bore brush on a hand drill is perfect to get them all cleaned out along with a can of brake cleaner.
 

Arisley

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I used an old wood bore bit, one of the paddle shaped ones. I ground the point off and just carefully worked it around in the bore. I was amazed at the gunk that came out. Especially at the bottom of the bore.
 

johndeerezach

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what size did you use? because i had problem with mine when i replaced rear rotors and pads and rr caliper hung up like crazy. and i even used a wire brush like the ones for copper pipe(since im a plumber and have a lot) and used brake cleen.
 

TARM

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I used a rifle bore brush that seemed to fit well. That with brake cleaner or I had it mount off and had in the parts cleaner bin and let the pump fed nozzle flush it out as I reamed it.
 

TARM

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There ya go. I have changed a fair number of people's vehicle's brakes besides mine and families. Many of the having their last "brake job" done at "the shop". Very many times you could tell the slider pins had never been cleaned and or greased. I always clean the pins and their ports. I have even had some so bad they had to be drilled out. One I actually had to replace the mount which you will find out you can not get from the parts store without the whole caliper unit with it. Salvage yard is your friend.

That as well as the I always bleed each brake at a min enough to clear out the piston where it may have been boiled especially the fronts. If the rotors are staying I check for any obvious warping. Take off the previous pads glazing fro the rotor surface with some emery cloth to allow for the new pads to properly bed. Then take it out and do a few spaced out 40-0 stops to bed the new ones.
 

TARM

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Another thing is swapping out the lines for SS teflon ones if you have not done that already. With the old and even newer stock lines so of the pressure goes to stretching the line so less pressure to the calipers.


If you have never flushed them then do a full flush. Trust me. Maybe do your power steering as well as most do not flush that and they also run like crap from not doing it. That also effects your brake power as well. Put the return hose off the brake hydroboost that goes back to the res . Then run it and let it pour into a container. Fill with a full syn trans fluid.

For the brakes I suggest finding so ATE Blue. It has a very high rating and a great wet rating. Its blue so no question when you are flushed it completely. You can find them at olympic import auto chains if you have them in your area. If not ask around. If not Castrol LMA is a good mid choice and you can for sure find that locally.
 

johndeerezach

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Another thing is swapping out the lines for SS teflon ones if you have not done that already. With the old and even newer stock lines so of the pressure goes to stretching the line so less pressure to the calipers.


If you have never flushed them then do a full flush. Trust me. Maybe do your power steering as well as most do not flush that and they also run like crap from not doing it. That also effects your brake power as well. Put the return hose off the brake hydroboost that goes back to the res . Then run it and let it pour into a container. Fill with a full syn trans fluid.

For the brakes I suggest finding so ATE Blue. It has a very high rating and a great wet rating. Its blue so no question when you are flushed it completely. You can find them at olympic import auto chains if you have them in your area. If not ask around. If not Castrol LMA is a good mid choice and you can for sure find that locally.

yea i dont have any of those import stores around me, but i can look around.
 

TARM

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Then just get the best you can. Look for the highest dry and wet temp ratings. ?You should be able to find the LMA at a normal auto store.
 

TARM

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No those are the parts that are flexible. That is where you get the swell from not the hardlines. Shoot Cary (OBSWIZ) a PM he has good prices on them and very fast shipping.
 

Big Angry Hillbilly

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If you don't know a flex line isn't prebent steel please don't attempt brake repair by yourself. For the safety of everyone else on the road.
 

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