building a fuel system.

sleeps

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how many feet of braided line should i buy?
need to run two lines off back of heads to regulator and from regulator to the factory return where the hfcm used to be.

anyone have a fair guesstimate? and a good place to buy braided line?

same question on feed side, how many feet of line?

may go push-loc on feed side, havent decided if i should put the extra money into braided on the feed side or not.



i realy want to get this done so i can put in my 205's and 66
 

Pizza pig

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Tank to engine all push loc hose. Don't waste the cash on stainless braided. Only use teflon lined stainless braided on the engine side lines.
 

strokin6L

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I used braided stainless on every single inch of my fuel system from the tank...to the engine and back to the tank. Its expensive...but looks cool haha. If I was to do it again i'd just use push lock from tank to engine...then braided line from there to save money.
 

sleeps

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but how much money would you really save? if you buy one big roll of braided it saves you some money. with buying two smaller rolls of each how much different will the price be?
 

MorganY

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but how much money would you really save? if you buy one big roll of braided it saves you some money. with buying two smaller rolls of each how much different will the price be?

Fittings are the expensive part. Spent 50 bucks at jegs for 2 -12 fittings and one -6 fitting

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strokin6L

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I've got over $600 in just braided line and fittings. Then another $600 for the regulated return system. Withe two fuel pumps and sump...I've got over $2000 into my entire fuel system.
 
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sleeps

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I've got over $600 in just braided line and fittings. Then another $600 for the regulated return system. Withe two fuel pumps and sump...I've got over $2000 into my entire fuel system.

I'm sorry, I dont know how you managed to spend that much money. That's ridiculous. I bought the regulator for $120 brand new and the fittings for the RR are like another ~$120iirc then some line.so maybe $400 on the stupid high side but that's with all nice fittings, full braided line and return ran back to before the hfcm tapped into stock return.
Sump I got was $125 used, but what? $200 new? And another $100-200 tops in fittings for feed side, $330 for an a1000 and $100 for filter bases and filters and some more braided lines.
Even brand new 200+200+330+100+ say 200 for feed side line is $1030 for a full braided line feed side on the high side. And you can go cheaper if you use push lock hose. $1500 should get you a full braided quality fuel system. Just takes some shopping around. I don't know why you need two fuel pumps though?

Even most of the vendors here have push lock feed setups for 8-900 and its all figured out already. So you could do that and build the $400 RR and have 1200-1300 in a nice fuel system.
 

Cutting-Edge Diesel

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but how much money would you really save? if you buy one big roll of braided it saves you some money. with buying two smaller rolls of each how much different will the price be?

only problem i see in this theory is you will need different size lines from the sump to the pump (-10) then different line from the pump to the y block (-8) or whatever you plan on using then different size lines feeding and returning from each head (-6). thats how i do it anyway.
 

strokin6L

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Exactly what Matt said. I got -10 from sump to FASS system. -10 from FASS to fuelab, -8 from fuelab to y-block, then -6 from y-block to the front of each head.
 

MorganY

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yeah, well either way you have to buy fitting for each line. so not much different there if any. how much is a good price for each line?

I meant the braided stainless fittings compared to push locks. Push locks cost me 3-5 dollars a piece depending on the size at my local hydraulic shop. Compared to 8, 10, or even 15 dollars a fitting for braided stainless.
 

sleeps

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I meant the braided stainless fittings compared to push locks. Push locks cost me 3-5 dollars a piece depending on the size at my local hydraulic shop. Compared to 8, 10, or even 15 dollars a fitting for braided stainless.

It would be alot cheaper buying the normal barbed fittings from a hydraulics shop or hardware store. I'm just saying if you ordered all the fancy anodized fittings from like summit if you dont have the access, knowledge or patience to figure it out, i could give someone a list of part numbers, and just say here, order this and assemble.

I have lists already figured out with prices and part numbers for different feed sides and regulated returns. Any which way you want to run it with whichever type of line and different fitting colors. But that's with summit part numbers. I have all the fitting sizes too but its luck of the draw if you can find them locally, or some more time shopping around online for basic fittings. I could figure out the bottom line cheapest way to assemble it but the inky difference would be in the fittings saving you maybe $100. Unless you used a lesser pump. But from what I see most of the time, most people want what looks the best on their trucks even if its underneath.

Parts on your hotrod are a status symbol. You want to be proud to show off what you have done to your ride no matter how big or little the project is. That's why we spend money on different colored items, billet fuel and oil caps, lots of money on fancy filters when it would be way cheaper to make one yourself and polish things etc.

I don't have much done to my truck yet but it I'm proud of what I've done so far. Its my first diesel I've modified and its a learning experience.
 

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