CCV idea.. will it work?

[BOSS450]

Using what I saw a while back Wayne wrote how he welded a pipe into his exhaust and routed his ccv directly to that. The only problem I see with this is user error. I just dont see it completely safe for the average person needing one.

So with that being said why couldn't one rout your typlical CCV 1" hose to a box on the side of the frame rail. On the box is a mini air filter on top, drain on the bottom, male end on one side to connect to the hose comming from the stock ccv/oil fill, and one more male end on the opposite side connected to a 1" hose running to an identical piece of pipe Wayne used except put enough angle on the pipe that you weld into the exhaust so it pulls a decent vacuum at all rpms.

In theory this would give a slight vacuum on your crank case. The filter on top of the box would keep the vacuum from becoming to much yet still have enough vacuum to suck all the bad smelling haze out the exhaust. So do yall think it will work?

Wayne's writeup:
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13508

 

[Wayne]

That should work fine, with a safety net too. I've been planning on something just like this for Erik's current build, adding baffles and packing in the box, then a hose as you described to the exhaust. I have yet to record results of this mod, but several thousand miles later, and it's still working great. Plenty of guys in the non-diesel world have this type of thing available for their cars, but with a check valve to prevent problems with backfiring. Problem is the fittings won't flow enough to properly vent on the high horsepower stuff these diesels are set up for. Here's an example of one without a check valve that would work if only it were larger.

Here's some details: "Vibrant Performance E-VAC Scavenger kits are dyno proven to pull up to 3" of vacuum from race motors, improving horsepower and reducing crankcase pressure.

Each kit includes a Male E-VAC fitting (which features an integrated Male 10-AN bung for major cost savings), an M18 angled O2 bung and an M18 x 1.5 male threaded plug"

You could also just go for a regular old vacuum pump, and force it into the exhaust or some combination there. Here's a good place to start.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=vacuum%20pump&dds=1

 

[Tree Trimmer]

wayne, your pic will work just fine.

where they used a couple fittings, you would weld a 1" pipe nipple to your exhaust 2-4" long. from that nipple, you would use a female pipe to hose barb. this keeps the rubber away from the exhaust.

pretty much, the piece in your pic, that is cut at the 45, would be the 1" nipple. you would then just attach your hose to it, via a fitting.

seems to me, a much easier way, than all their fittings. cheaper by far, as well.

this is allowing you use 1" stuff. if you use 3/4, you just adjust your sizing accordingly.

just wondering, in erics truck. how far away from the valve cover does it turn down?

i ask this, because on my 7.3, we turned the dog house around. thats pretty standard. but when we just ran the hose down to the can, i ended up with exactly what eric has. a flat out fking mess after about 20 miles.

we ended up just running the hose up over the brake resevoir, and then down to the can. it forced any liquid oil that wanted to travel out the hose to go up 10ish inches, before it could go down.

fixed my problem. cosmetically, i dont know how feasible that is, to make a loop of hose go up, then down to his can, and look great, but i bet you could make it look decent. it might be a worthwile concession he makes, to keep that oil mess off his frame rail.

as for a container with baffles. after i ran mine up then down, i didnt need baffles anymore.

we took a piece of 3" pvc, drilled in two fittings, two caps, and filled with steel wool. this is not mine, but is the same thing. http://s634.photobucket.com/albums/uu69/Stroker67/CCV Catch Can/ i didnt take pics of mine. on mine, we drilled the inlet, towards the bottom about 3" up, and ran the outlet out the top, so any vapor had to travel through the steel wool to get out. thus the drain, you see in his pics.

you can then paint any color you choose, and because there is no exit to the air, no mess except through the exhaust. this allowing you plumb the exit of the can, to the exhaust like in your pic, as opposed to venting to the air.

 

[4tonGT40]

I made this CCV BC I'm sick and tired of oil running out of my boots, IC pipes etc. I sure I'm not telling anyone anything new I here. The scavenger is the best way BC it's maintenance free. I haven't installed it yet, but tomorrow it's going on. Simply run a "AN" fitted hose down to the exhaust and weld the scavenger in. BaM! No more oil in your Schit!

 

[08BIGRIG]

View attachment 5700
I made this CCV BC I'm sick and tired of oil running out of my boots, IC pipes etc. I sure I'm not telling anyone anything new I here. The scavenger is the best way BC it's maintenance free. I haven't installed it yet, but tomorrow it's going on. Simply run a "AN" fitted hose down to the exhaust and weld the scavenger in. BaM! No more oil in your Schit!

That is going to look really clean under the hood buddy I bet. Good thinking man.

 

[skevac]

Here is a possible option. Summit and Jegs both carry this stuff. Wouldn't need the valve cover breathers but could use the checkvalve and pipe. Would do 2 trucks. Also see the instructions on how the install it on a gas motor with headers. From looking at the pictures from Wayne's CCV I would say he put the angle he cut on the end of the galvanized pipe in the exhaust pipe the wrong way? But hey as long as it works????

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL34145/?rtype=1

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/all34145_crankcase_evacuation_system.pdf

 

[Tree Trimmer]

changing the angle of the cut, direction of the angle, and angle of the pipe, all affect how much "suction" is on the pipe.

my thought, is if you take the dpf off, or put that before the dpf, with the pipe his way, it will help prevent any soot from collecting on the end of the pipe, and potentially pluggin it. at the cost of slightly less suction.

but with a setup like this your not after alot of suction. you just need suction. if that makes sense.

 

[skevac]

I wouldn't think you need any suction (vacuum) on a diesel. Most of the high performance gas motors that are pulling a vacuum are doing it because it makes more horsepower. I have my 6.0 vented into a bottle so that the CCV hose doesn't drip on the floor and at an idle I was supprised how much pressure it had on a low mile engine with no mods. Can't believe a 6.4 would be much different?

 

[BFT]

Here is a possible option. Summit and Jegs both carry this stuff. Wouldn't need the valve cover breathers but could use the checkvalve and pipe. Would do 2 trucks. Also see the instructions on how the install it on a gas motor with headers. From looking at the pictures from Wayne's CCV I would say he put the angle he cut on the end of the galvanized pipe in the exhaust pipe the wrong way? But hey as long as it works????

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL34145/?rtype=1

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/all34145_crankcase_evacuation_system.pdf

How did he put it on the wrong way? It shows it the same way in the picture shown on that web site.

 

[Erikclaw]

Tree Trimmer,
I did the same as you and it didn't work for me. I ran extra hose up over or nearly over the break reservoir, it did help slightly but didn't cure it. I took a little longer to make a mess but a mess it still made. Right now I am letting the brain power at Elite see if they can cure me of this messy problem. Tadd and I talked about baffling it somehow directly off the elbows coming from the valve cover. It would be clean and nice if he can make it feasible. I am confident that they will come up with a solution.

 

[skevac]

How did he put it on the wrong way? It shows it the same way in the picture shown on that web site.

You better look at the photos again. You can clearly see the frame in the background & the hose has to run towards the motor, so the cut on the theaded pipe is NOT installed the same as the web site diagram. Not trying to pick Wayne's work apart just stating what I noticed. I am glad he posted it because I was thinking of doing the same thing on my 6.0 & 6.4 just to get rid of the smell. Now I am going to do it for sure.

 

[Dzchey21]

View attachment 5700
I made this CCV BC I'm sick and tired of oil running out of my boots, IC pipes etc. I sure I'm not telling anyone anything new I here. The scavenger is the best way BC it's maintenance free. I haven't installed it yet, but tomorrow it's going on. Simply run a "AN" fitted hose down to the exhaust and weld the scavenger in. BaM! No more oil in your Schit!

I would be a little worried about this set up choking down to 5/8 inch or less from the 3/4 I.d of the factory ccv. This would be one of them cases where the vacuum better be substantial to keep up I would think since basically the surface area has been cut in half if not more.

Im going with gapless rings to hopefully avoid any smell or oil

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[Erikclaw]

I would be a little worried about this set up choking down to 5/8 inch or less from the 3/4 I.d of the factory ccv. This would be one of them cases where the vacuum better be substantial to keep up I would think since basically the surface area has been cut in half if not more.

Im going with gapless rings to hopefully avoid any smell or oil

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I should have done the same kind of rings, just never thought of it.

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