dipstick tube adapter seal

[lincolnlocker]

anyone have any good tricks to replace the adapter seal while engine is still in the truck? i know its a pita and the billet piece from strictly would be badass but the guy needing it done doesnt want to spend that kind of money and i got asked to help with it.. one ford house quoted 1800 bucks, another quoted 800... i know the right way is with pan off the motor and i know the strictly billet piece are the propper fix but that aint happening.. so tips on doing it would be great...

live life full throttle

 

[Ron's Power Stroke]

http://www.dieselorings.com/docs/dipstikflange.pdf

 

[psduser1]

It's gravy. Piece of mechanics wire about 12-16" long, bend a 1/2 return bend on one end. Stick it in the tube hole, tug it just enough to catch the adaptor.
2" endwrench, or big channellocks, back the nut off. Fish the nut outta the way, drop the adaptor into the pan far enough to get the o-ring out.
Reverse the process with a new o-ring, hose off the threads with brake clean, drop some locktite on the threads, and tighten the sh!t out of the nut.
Done. Takes about 20 minutes to change the o-ring, probably takes longer to get the starter in and out. Pm me if you have any questions, lol.
The two o-rings are $11.25 from ford.

 

[GO BIG OR GO HOME]

2 people, 2 needle nose vice grips, set of picks, large channel locks or adjustable wrench for the nut. Once you have the tube out lock one pair of vice grips in the hole where the tube went. Lock the other pair on as well for extra security. Have your buddy break the nut. After you get the nut off push the housing into the tank slightly so you can get to the oring. Have your buddy pick the oring out, install the new one then reassemble in opposite order.

May not be the safest or best way but I've done two trucks like this

Sent while doing burnouts somewhere in the country

 

[psduser1]

2 people, 2 needle nose vice grips, set of picks, large channel locks or adjustable wrench for the nut. Once you have the tube out lock one pair of vice grips in the hole where the tube went. Lock the other pair on as well for extra security. Have your buddy break the nut. After you get the nut off push the housing into the tank slightly so you can get to the oring. Have your buddy pick the oring out, install the new one then reassemble in opposite order.

May not be the safest or best way but I've done two trucks like this

Sent while doing burnouts somewhere in the country

Pssshhhh, nancy. One man job, lol.
It's a pain, but not realy. Patience is your friend.:tree:

 

[lincolnlocker]

It's gravy. Piece of mechanics wire about 12-16" long, bend a 1/2 return bend on one end. Stick it in the tube hole, tug it just enough to catch the adaptor.
2" endwrench, or big channellocks, back the nut off. Fish the nut outta the way, drop the adaptor into the pan far enough to get the o-ring out.
Reverse the process with a new o-ring, hose off the threads with brake clean, drop some locktite on the threads, and tighten the sh!t out of the nut.
Done. Takes about 20 minutes to change the o-ring, probably takes longer to get the starter in and out. Pm me if you have any questions, lol.
The two o-rings are $11.25 from ford.

cool. thanks man!!

2 people, 2 needle nose vice grips, set of picks, large channel locks or adjustable wrench for the nut. Once you have the tube out lock one pair of vice grips in the hole where the tube went. Lock the other pair on as well for extra security. Have your buddy break the nut. After you get the nut off push the housing into the tank slightly so you can get to the oring. Have your buddy pick the oring out, install the new one then reassemble in opposite order.

May not be the safest or best way but I've done two trucks like this

Sent while doing burnouts somewhere in the country

you must be a midget cuze there is no way that i would fit under there with anyone else.. and ill be doing it on a lift...



thanks fellas.. seams ok to do!

live life full throttle

 

[dieselflash]

I've done it probably ten times with the ole needle nose vise grip technique, I like to add a little grey silicone to the adapter to help the o-ring stick to it, then some around the adapter for the nut squash down. It's about time to do my truck it's getting a lil moist.

 

[Blowby]

I've done it probably ten times with the ole needle nose vise grip technique, I like to add a little grey silicone to the adapter to help the o-ring stick to it, then some around the adapter for the nut squash down. It's about time to do my truck it's getting a lil moist.

New signature in the making....LOL


BTW: Not that hard to replace yourself. I've even fished out a few that dropped in the pan. Not a big deal, much easier than you think.

 

[lincolnlocker]

took longer to get the truck on the hoist then it did to drop the starter and get the old seal out of it.. i used a 20ga shotgun bore brush with a nut screwed on the end.. bad part is that tye nut was a lil anodized and stripped out before it got tight enough.. so now we wait till 2:30 for the parts store to get the repair kit in...

live life full throttle

 

[psduser1]

Sounds about right, lol.

 

[lincolnlocker]

i know now that the billet fix is the way to go unless the pan needs replaced.

live life full throttle

 

[m j]

I think you have a few more leaks to fix
Castrol SuperClean and a pressure washer should help you find the motor

 

[lincolnlocker]

I think you have a few more leaks to fix
Castrol SuperClean and a pressure washer should help you find the motor

not mine but thanks.

live life full throttle

 

[psduser1]

took longer to get the truck on the hoist then it did to drop the starter and get the old seal out of it.. i used a 20ga shotgun bore brush with a nut screwed on the end.. bad part is that tye nut was a lil anodized and stripped out before it got tight enough.. so now we wait till 2:30 for the parts store to get the repair kit in...

live life full throttle

I think they come from the factory that way, old school rust prevention :swordfight:

 

[old man dave]

.45 cal bore brush and rod also works.