DIY Rear blocks

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Might be thinking of doing 6" rear blocks,does it need to be tapered or could it be flat as the stock block. Truck will have traction bars also.

Thanks
 

chappy

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Depends on if you have a single drive shaft or 2 piece. If single then I would put a taper. If two piece then leave it flat since you have or will have the carrier bearing dropped. I plan on making a 5in one myself.
 

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Depends on if you have a single drive shaft or 2 piece. If single then I would put a taper. If two piece then leave it flat since you have or will have the carrier bearing dropped. I plan on making a 5in one myself.

Isnt your truck already lifted?
Your doing 5'' rear blocks or total lift?
How taper would I need if I do need it? I was thinking just match the pitch as close to stock.
 

Dzchey21

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I made my own 7 inch blocks a couple years ago.

the pictures are in the sled pulling section in the sticky thread for traction blocks.

They do need to be tapered. The factory 4 inch block have about 5 degrees. I made my 7 inch about 8 degrees. I bet for a 5 inch 5 degrees would be about prefect.


If I remember right that equals about 5 inch tall in the rear and 4.5 inch in the front
 

fordfreak4life

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I made my own 7 inch blocks a couple years ago.

the pictures are in the sled pulling section in the sticky thread for traction blocks.

They do need to be tapered. The factory 4 inch block have about 5 degrees. I made my 7 inch about 8 degrees. I bet for a 5 inch 5 degrees would be about prefect.


If I remember right that equals about 5 inch tall in the rear and 4.5 inch in the front

Ill try to get a pic of a set of lift blocks i built that are pin located and ubolt located..... They are on a rock crawler... 4" 3 degrees of taper

Sent from my Milestone X2 using Tapatalk 2
 

Zmann

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Below is Trevors from PMF He offers them in tapered or flat
He also makes a adjustable one for axle centering and the traction bar style also.

but He's not a sponsor so Google Precision Metal Fab if you want to see His offerings.

honestly My 4 inch tapered block was in backwards when I bought my truck

after a few months of owning I noticed so I spun them ,, never noticed a difference..

I actually just pulled them in favor of all spring .. and am working on getting the carrier and pinion angle dialed in

IMG_1804.jpg
 

Zmann

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honestly it can be up to the individual truck but typically the pinion needs to tilt up when lifting
so yes

there are procedures to check for proper drive shaft carrier bearing alignment and angles
 

TyCorr

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Below is Trevors from PMF He offers them in tapered or flat
He also makes a adjustable one for axle centering and the traction bar style also.

but He's not a sponsor so Google Precision Metal Fab if you want to see His offerings.

honestly My 4 inch tapered block was in backwards when I bought my truck

after a few months of owning I noticed so I spun them ,, never noticed a difference..

I actually just pulled them in favor of all spring .. and am working on getting the carrier and pinion angle dialed in

IMG_1804.jpg

He isnt a sponsor? He used to be....:shrug:
 

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Depends on if you have a single drive shaft or 2 piece. If single then I would put a taper. If two piece then leave it flat since you have or will have the carrier bearing dropped. I plan on making a 5in one myself.

I have a two piece drive shaft. Will the two piece carrier bearing need to be drop compared to the single shaft?
 

chappy

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I have a two piece drive shaft. Will the two piece carrier bearing need to be drop compared to the single shaft?

There is no carrier bearing on a one piece so you have to correct the angle with the block taper or a wedge tied into the center bolt on the leaf spring. I'm not a fan of wedges. Since you have a 2 piece driveshaft you will need to drop the carrier bearing when lifting and that will correct the angle.
 

chappy

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Isnt your truck already lifted?
Your doing 5'' rear blocks or total lift?
How taper would I need if I do need it? I was thinking just match the pitch as close to stock.

I have a 3.5 stacked with a 1 inch. Its not enough and I don't like stacking blocks so I need a 5.5in in there to make me happy.
 

Tom S

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There is no carrier bearing on a one piece so you have to correct the angle with the block taper or a wedge tied into the center bolt on the leaf spring. I'm not a fan of wedges. Since you have a 2 piece driveshaft you will need to drop the carrier bearing when lifting and that will correct the angle.

I was doing some reading on this and it seemed to me like it would take a combination of a wedge and a drop of the carrier to adjust for lift. I was reading that same spicer guide.
 

Homesteader

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I looked at my 2 piece shaft and its not in a straight line. The carrier bearing part sits a little higher. When lifting a truck should the dirve shaft be in a straight line from the pinion to the transfer case? I just need to figure how much taper I would need to put into my blocks.
 

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