diy Replacing injectors

03F250 6.0 · Mar 17, 2012

Iam going to replace my injectors on my 03 6.0 is there any special tools i need to replace them , anything i should look forward to. Anything helps thanks James

Silverback · Mar 17, 2012

If your truck is an early 03 you'll need a special quick disconnect tool to remove the high pressure line that feeds the high pressure rail. You can replace injectors with out removing it but its a royal PITA. The line can be removed with out using the special tool, but it will take some creativity.

03F250 6.0 · Mar 17, 2012

ok where can i get that tool and what is it called.

Silverback · Mar 17, 2012

03F250 6.0 said:
ok where can i get that tool and what is it called.

Otc sell the factory tool, here's one I found on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Disconnect-Tool-Ford-6-0-Powerstroke-Diesel-/230576039313

Wojo · Mar 17, 2012

I just unscrewed the quick disconnect from the rail. Took like 10 seconds. Also. On the passenger side you will need a cut down 8mm deep socket to unbolt the rail from the head. The airbox will get in the way. Other than that you just need a torx socket for the injector hold downs and a torque wrench to put it back on. I can replace the whole passenger bank of injectors in about an hour. Super simple. I have never done the drivers side but the only dofference is removing the ficm,coolant reservoir, and intake. Other than that same process

Beast6.0 · Mar 17, 2012

I use a 18/19mm (whichever I grab first) 12 point socket to press out the harness plugs from the rocker boxes. Then you'll need a T30 for the oil rails, except some early 03's which have an 8mm bolt. A long T40, ( later 06-07's actually use a T45 I believe) for the injector hold down. Using a short T40/45 on an angle can cause headaches, so take your time on those and get the torx seated well, I stripped one out once (turned it into a long night). I tighten the holdowns back to 26 ft/lbs after putting on new orings and copper washers. Some may disagree with the torque #, but it has always worked for me. Have a battery charger/jumper cables or some way to keep the starter turning, because you will have to crank it a while to get the injector oil pressure back up, and don't be worried if it runs crappy at first (it has to purge the air out). Be worried if it continues running bad after the air's been bled (within the next day or two, depending on how much you drive it).

It's not too bad of a job, just tight in some spots to reach. Make sure to clean the injector hole out so the new sticks seat properly, torque em' down and enjoy. Good luck with it. It's been a few months since I swapped a set, so someone please correct me if I made a mistake.

MorganY · Mar 17, 2012

oil rail bolts are 8mm. you don't have to remove the oil rail. 1/4' drive flex head ratchet and short socket six point 8mm works fine to get the back of the oil rail bolts out.