EGR Cooler Exhaust Pipe Replacement

[d.evil]

Just curious if the pipe in the picture can be removed / replaced with the cab and / or heads on the truck? Looks really tight back there and don't want to fight with it if its going to be a hopeless battle. I had the mounting bolt to the up-pipe come out causing excess vibration on the flexpipe as the pipe has a block-off plate currently installed instead of the coolers, which in turn caused a leak. Thanks!

 

[webb06]

Just curious if the pipe in the picture can be removed / replaced with the cab and / or heads on the truck? Looks really tight back there and don't want to fight with it if its going to be a hopeless battle. I had the mounting bolt to the up-pipe come out causing excess vibration on the flexpipe as the pipe has a block-off plate currently installed instead of the coolers, which in turn caused a leak. Thanks!

If you have a block off plate it's best to just cut it in 2 spots with a sawzall and relocate the block off plate to the passenger side egr provision. Either weld or tap the exhaust back pressure sensor bung into the block off plate and bend the sensor tube to where it can be bolted back in place.

I've tried to remove that pipe in one piece and have always had to cut it. Also when cutting it, it's easier to unbolt the 2 bolts holding the master cylinder cylinder on and lay it out of the way. Gives you a lot more room for the sawzall.


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[d.evil]

Thanks for the input - exactly what I wanted to know! Only problem is, the truck has to pass emissions once a year. So if I cut that pipe, I can't get it back to stock easily if a new one doesn't slip in without pulling the cab or heads.

I have been looking for an excuse to get studs done, maybe now is the time?! Hummm...

 

[6.0 Tech]

If you pull the trans it comes out, dont know if you wanna do that much work though either.

 

[Bigboytoys]

It can be done cab on, heads on, trans in.... just as is, it's tight but can be done.

 

[webb06]

It can be done cab on, heads on, trans in.... just as is, it's tight but can be done.

Do tell how


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[tbsimmons]

I can see it coming out with the Up-Pipe gone but not in.
I had to cut mine to get it out.
Cut it before you unbolt it, a little easier.

 

[Bigboytoys]

I didn't find it that bad. Way easier than plugs on a 4th gen camaro, or a 5.4 ....

There are 5 bolts holding it place if it's Eg d eleted. There are 2 that hold the 2 pieces of pipe together, 2 that mount it to the top of the engine and 1 at the back of the block then it wiggled out and I never cut it.


https://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl...d=0ahUKEwi6n8W8yNzLAhWDuoMKHVqWDRkQMwgeKAEwAQ

The pic will give you the jist of what's where but it has the cooler in place.

 

[d.evil]

Couldn't seem to get it out by simply unbolting and working it down.

Talked to a tech who has done a few of them, and said easiest way is to loosen up the cab bolts and lift the cab up a bit to gain more room.

Long story short, 6 hours later we have 3 of the 6 cab bolts out. We were able to gain access to the top nut on the back ones with just popping the cover off the cap in the cab. 22mm socket on the top and 15mm on the bottom, came out about a half inch then simply stopped turning. Tried everything I could think of. Heat, penetrating lube, long breaker bar, 1/2 drive impact then a huge 3/4 impact and wouldn't budge. Going to have to cut this one. Then we moved on to the front two. Same problem, but no access to the top 22mm nut. Ended up cutting access holes to get to it rather than remove the radiator. First one came out about half inch, then jammed. Second wouldn't budge. 3/4 impact @125psi didn't touch it. Bottom line is now we have to cut the head off and pull the bolt / nut out through the top, but in order to gain enough room to do this the radiator needs to come out anyway.

Is there a trick to getting these things out easier next time? No way the shops that work on these every day would spend all day on 6 bolts, just to start whatever project they are working on in the engine bay. 10 minute job is now on day 2. At this point it would have been easier to yank the trans and up-pipes to get that stupid pipe out!

 

[Jonnydime]

Couldn't you have just cut it and welded v-bands on it to have a 2 piece pipe?

 

[d.evil]

Probably. Cab mounts needed to be replaced anyway so I decided to go that route.

 

[webb06]

Couldn't seem to get it out by simply unbolting and working it down.

Talked to a tech who has done a few of them, and said easiest way is to loosen up the cab bolts and lift the cab up a bit to gain more room.

Long story short, 6 hours later we have 3 of the 6 cab bolts out. We were able to gain access to the top nut on the back ones with just popping the cover off the cap in the cab. 22mm socket on the top and 15mm on the bottom, came out about a half inch then simply stopped turning. Tried everything I could think of. Heat, penetrating lube, long breaker bar, 1/2 drive impact then a huge 3/4 impact and wouldn't budge. Going to have to cut this one. Then we moved on to the front two. Same problem, but no access to the top 22mm nut. Ended up cutting access holes to get to it rather than remove the radiator. First one came out about half inch, then jammed. Second wouldn't budge. 3/4 impact @125psi didn't touch it. Bottom line is now we have to cut the head off and pull the bolt / nut out through the top, but in order to gain enough room to do this the radiator needs to come out anyway.

Is there a trick to getting these things out easier next time? No way the shops that work on these every day would spend all day on 6 bolts, just to start whatever project they are working on in the engine bay. 10 minute job is now on day 2. At this point it would have been easier to yank the trans and up-pipes to get that stupid pipe out!

Heat the head of the bolts for a minute with a propane torch. Buzz it out with an impact. If it spins and breaks the cage nut loose then hold the nut with a socket and ratchet. You can remove the headlights and gain access to the front two cage nuts. I usually weld the nut in place which will heat it in the process as well as keep the nut from spinning. When going back together I wire wheel all the loctite off so they're easier the next time.

 

[6.0 Tech]

The front 2 bolts we weld the nut to the body. It not only heats it, but the nut sont move. And you can get the welding torch in there with just the head lights out.