Reply to thread

Message: [QUOTE="Tyb_6.7, post: 1567690, member: 39457"] You are going through it with this truck! I got a similar situation. I just replaced all 8 injectors cause had one nearing the 2.0 mg mark and a little shaky at 65-68 mph. But it was an episode, I decided to do the work myself after spending $5600 getting a delete and upper oil pan re-seal. Had the fuel knock after that work was completed, fixed with resetting the fuel trims and crankshaft position sensor…actually I reset everything available in forscan on the PCM side lol. Well, the very first injector I started (#1 cylinder), the hold down bolt snapped. But I wasn’t gonna let that stop me so kept moving through the rest. Like you all the injectors came out pretty easy, but I had a valve cover job to do cause of that bolt. So I pulled the valve cover, trued welding a nut to the bolt several times but couldn’t get it out. Hired someone to drill it out but he couldn’t so he ended up throwing a helicoil in there. I was sketchy about it but said screw it, put everything back together. BTW…I used electrical shrink wrap to cover fuel injector fittings and fuel supply rail fittings, melted one side together and basically made a “cap” out of it to keep dirt out. New injectors came with all the fancy caps. Back to the helicoil…didn’t work. Couldn’t get it to 22 ft-lbs + 90 degrees but got it to hold as tight ass I could. Had to go back to work and this is my only vehicle. I through my ratchet and star bit in the truck just in case, and glad I did. Anything over 1800 rpm knocked the #1 injector out. It was actually plopping in the injector cup well. So for the entire week, I was driving like a 90 year that loss feeling in their right foot. It popped a few times, I would know by the “cylinder 1 contribution code”, I would pull over and re-tighten. Well, finally got back to work on it today. Really didn’t want to but knew I had to. Had to fix that helicoil. In the meantime, I ordered a new valve cover, new gasket, 4 new hold down bolts. Got the valve cover off in about 6 hours (luckily it’s the passenger side). I am glad I didn’t wait too long, the crush washer on that injector was warped, there was carbon build up in all the indents and all over the o-ring of the fuel injector. The fuel injector grommet was shredded on the underside which left rubber shrapnel in my valve components. The fuel injector cup well looked like murder. Scrubbed that. Taped a 1/2 inch heater hose to a shop vac and swept out that hole as good as I could. Cleaned up all the rubber with q-tips and the vacuum as well. That what took me the longest. I threaded the hole to 10mm x 1.5 and threw in a threaded insert 8mm x 1.25 (hold down bolt size) with red lock-tite. Should have just done it my self in the first place smh. Worked like a charm, was able to get the correct torque. After I got everything back together, 13 hours of straight work, 6 white monsters, I primed the truck 8 times and I got the same code…P2291 and the truck wouldn’t start. Tried 3 more times and finally got it to start. I was certain there was air in there so I would turn on the key and hurry to the primary filter to loosen the thumb screw to release fuel until it was running fluently with no air. It still takes a few cranks to start. I started it 3 times and every-time it seemed to start on the last crank in the series lol but the code didn’t re-populate. Fuel rail pressure reads approximately 4000 psi at idle and increases with throttle. I think I just need to get it on the road and get that fuel pressure higher. If that doesn’t work I’ll be pulling the primary fuel filter and changing that first. 2015 F350 XLT 6.7 Diesel (198k miles) Upgrades: - Gen 2.1 CP4 Disaster Kit - S&B Air Filter - Secondary Coolant Filter Recent Work: - Upper Oil Pan Re-seal ($3200) - Delete ($2400)…should’ve done myself - Motorcraft Fuel Injectors, kit with Supply Tubes and hold down bolts ($5800 - $1400 core charge = $3400) - New Valve cover ($142) - 2 Valve cover gaskets lol ($60) - Drainable Front and Rear Differential Covers with removable gaskets ($300-ish) - New Lower Oil Pan ($40) - New Transmission Pan ($70) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk [/QUOTE]