Reply to thread

Message: [QUOTE="V-Ref, post: 330870, member: 660"] To support what was posted previously (which is some really good advice BTW)....I would accomplish the outlined steps so you can move forward. You really need to get access to some regulated shop air, apply pressure to the bottom port on the gate, and see what pressure it takes open it. If you don't have access to regulated shop air, you can take a air bottle, put 40-50 psi in it, apply that pressure to the bottom port of your gate, and note the pressure on the tank when you hear the gate close (provided you heard it open when you applied 40-50 psi to it)....repeat...verify. [B][I]How high did you pressure test your system?[/I][/B] If you pressurized it to 10-15 psi, and called it good....you might be making incorrect assumptions on other components of your system operating properly at higher pressures. [B][I]Did you include the compressor housing in part of your leak testing?[/I] [/B] (i.e. Some folks will disconnect the compressor discharge hose/hot side tube and introduce pressure there during leak testing, leaving the turbo out of it) [I]If not[/I], then the compressor discharge port that I'm assuming feeds your regulator that supplies your WG with boost pressure could be full of leaks. So you'd have a boost leak, and a leak that would fail to apply the appropriate desired pressure to either the bottom/top of your gate. This sounds like a 25-ish PSI spring pack in your WG. Plug in the compressor discharge port (on your turbo compressor housing) that is now connected to your regulator, and run the WG with both the top/bottom ports vented to atmosphere...see what boost you make then. One possible scenario is you've got a string of leaks (potentially between the turbo discharge port>regulator>WG), and haven't tested at high enough pressure to see it yet. Soapy water, or (if you feel brave and have a clean engine compartment) a smokey match can help you find the little ones. It is a PITA, but once you get it up and running right, you shouldn't need to mess with it. Leak test, leak test, leak test (include the turbo/regulator/wg tubing), use regulated shop air to find out what pressure it takes to open your spring pack, and then you can move forward. [/QUOTE]