Fuel selector valve myth

[Magnum PD]

Is it true that I need to leave the selector valve hooked up to the harness to be able to keep the fuel gauge working?

 

[Zmann]

I am not sure what your after but on my old ford the selector would switch tank lines and the gauge signal to whatever tank you choose

 

[Magnum PD]

If I no longer use the selector valve for changing fuel tanks, I can't take it off the truck, because the fuel gauge won't work. True?

 

[Patrick Feeley]

If you are running a single tank, you could probably easily redo the wiring to get rid of it. It's easier to see on the diagram of the system (the EVTM is your friend!). The valve has the switching diodes to move the valve as well as switch the sending units. If the valve is not needed, you could rewire to have the fuel selector switch change between sending units (if you still needed both for some reason).

1 sender only: Jump the appropriate wire (Yellow/Light Blue for Rear, Dark Blue/Yellow for Front) with Yellow/White wire at Selector Valve Connector.

2 sender: Basically need to disconnect (cut all wires to) the Selector Switch (Red to terminal 5 will have Power). Yellow/White wire from fuel gauge needs to go to Selector switch terminal 2, Yellow/Light Blue to Selector Switch terminal 1 for Rear, Dark Blue/Yellow to Selector Switch terminal 4 for Front.

Cheers!

 

[Magnum PD]

I got an idea that I could switch the selector switch to the rear tank and power a small pump to pump fuel from the rear to front tank. Guess I'm gonna have to splice into the wires.

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Check my post above as I was editing while you posted. Cheers!

 

[Jaredkeller96]

My fuel level does not read unless my selector is hooked up...so if you can find something to complete the circuit then yes it'll read without it. But I just got mine tucked away


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[Magnum PD]

I need the red wire to power a relay and another to activate the relay.