Fuel System - Revamped

genie144 · Jun 28, 2011

So have been having some fuel pressure issues and some issues with my switching valves. I believed the root cause of the issues were related to the routing of the fuel system which was not ideal and the sticking selector valve. This is a work in progress but should be wrapped up by the weekend and fix my issues (fingers crossed):

Fuel Pump - Key on Engine Off - dB meter ~10' away at ~5' elevation

Same as above:

db Meter under truck - KOEO

Same:

Rail Mount:

Pre-Dahls Tee:

Pre-Dahl Tee 2nd angle:

Outlet from Selector Valve:

180 Selector Valve Outlet:

Unions:

Dahl 1 outlet:

Return Selector Valve:

Wiring Mess:

So that was what I was starting with. The routing was necessitated by some last minute changes and obviously is not ideal for a stock setup let alone a high performance SVO fuel system.

This is where I am at now:

Factory Tank:

Frame Rail:

Coolant Filter (this is causing a problem):

Rerouted Wiring:

So now that the system is gutted - it is time to rebuild it and make it all fit... Quite the challenge...

Back of Mounting Box:

Money Shot:

Bed towards Engine:

Engine towads Bed:

So that is where I am at. The bracket is fabbed and the mounting tabs for the filters are welded into place. I am needing a few specialty connections to actually get everything mounted. Once I have the filters mounted in place, I will be working on locating the tank selector valves to minimize bends, loops, etc in the fuel line. Once everything everything is welded (tabs for selector valves) I will be putting some sound deadener on the inside of the box. Then the whole thing will be painted with some rubberized undercoating I have from previous sound proofing projects. I am not sure how long the coating will last - eventually I will have it recoated with truck bed liner.

The goal is to improve the pump performance (fuel pressure) and decrease the volume of the pump inside and outside of the truck. 90dB is a bit obnoxious for a pump at 10 feet and 5 feet up.

Sam

genie144 · Jun 28, 2011

More pictures of everything so far are here.

Sam

purpleheart350 · Jun 28, 2011

whos kit are you running

genie144 · Jun 28, 2011

Designed by me originally for use with my OBS. This system is now on my superduty.

Sam

Tom S · Jun 28, 2011

Sam I normally use the yellow gas rector seal pipe dope on my stuff but someone just posted an even better stuff to use just the other day. I hopefully can think of the name of it.

I was shocked how loud that fuel lab pump is. Is part of your work to see about quieting that down? I seriously think I would run two SD pumps on mine way before I was cool with those loud pumps.

Tom

genie144 · Jun 28, 2011

Tom - if you remember the name - please let me know. I will need something in a few days. As far as the volume... The box is enclosed on the 4 sides and top. There is a 4" hole on the narrow sides for hoses. The entire inside will have a layer of aluminum backed sound deadener. The entire box will then be 'painted' with a rubberized undercoat that is designed to absorb sound.

I think that between the box and then improving the suction side should make it a fair bit quieter...

Sam

Tom S · Jun 28, 2011

Took me a while but I found it.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1514&highlight=teflon+tape

Mdub707 · Jun 29, 2011

Sam,

we use loctite 545 on almost everything veggie related, good stuff. Just make sure it's the 545!!! Also use it on a lot of filtration connections too.

I can't get over how loud that pump is... that's absurd.

genie144 · Jul 5, 2011

Tom S said:
I was shocked how loud that fuel lab pump is. Is part of your work to see about quieting that down? I seriously think I would run two SD pumps on mine way before I was cool with those loud pumps.

Tom

So without the fittings I need for the Dahl's, I was a limited how much I could get done this weekend. :doh: Mainly cosmetic, but should have the fittings this week and have everything reinstalled for this weekend.

Tom - to your question about noise. I have spoken with the guys over at Fuelab a couple times (great guys from my experience) and think that the way the pump was mounted and routed contributed to the volume. Fuelab strongly recommends having some form of isolator between the pump bracket and whatever metal you mount it to. I don't think I saw that anywhere in the pump paperwork, but apparently isolating the pump helps decrease the noise. With that said - I am taking a few additional steps:

Outside coating in progress:

Top Rubberized:

Door - Constrained Layer Dampening (CLD):

Back Wall and Brackets CLD:

.

Door - CLD and Coated:

Back Wall CLD and Coated:

So the entire interior of the box/bracket has a single layer of a CLD (think dynamat - but better stuff) and then the entire box/bracket inside and out has a 1.5 coats of a rubberized undercoating spray made by Dupont. This is left over stuff I had from previous projects. There should be no vibration or sound transmission via the box/bracket. When the coating dries, it looks better. I wish I had had the time to take the box to get coated by some bed liner. I am not sure how well the rubber coating will hold up under the truck catching all the dirt and rock from the road.

Sam

genie144 · Jul 8, 2011

Tom S said:
Sam I normally use the yellow gas rector seal pipe dope on my stuff but someone just posted an even better stuff to use just the other day. I hopefully can think of the name of it.

Tom

Mdub707 said:
Sam,

we use loctite 545 on almost everything veggie related, good stuff. Just make sure it's the 545!!! Also use it on a lot of filtration connections too.

I can't get over how loud that pump is... that's absurd.

Question about the loctite and tightening connections. Do I have to tighten the connections as much as possible with the loctite or can I simply tighten to where I need it? I am mainly looking at the connections coming out of my valves and I need the 90s to be straight up. Stupid question... Just want to be sure before I get everything reassembled and put back up under the truck just to find it leaking...

Sam

genie144 · Jul 11, 2011

Ok... Getting really close to reinstall. Got everything mounted and it is Coming together. Still have a hose to fix and pump mount to relocate... Also got the coolant hoses rerouted and just need to remount the coolant filter. That will have to be temporary until I can do IH waterpump.

Test fitting:

Hoses made:

Sam

SkySki Jason · Jul 15, 2011

genie144 said:
Question about the loctite and tightening connections. Do I have to tighten the connections as much as possible with the loctite or can I simply tighten to where I need it? I am mainly looking at the connections coming out of my valves and I need the 90s to be straight up. Stupid question... Just want to be sure before I get everything reassembled and put back up under the truck just to find it leaking...

Sam

The 545 is thread sealant - not to be confused with thread locker most are used to seeing from Loctite. You must tighten NPT fittings until they are TIGHT - likely turning more to get 'where you need them'. Trust me, not tight enough WILL leak...

I also use Gasoila thread sealant. The Loctite 545 sealant is best on small fittings, but I prefer the thick Gasoila product on 1/2" and larger fittings. You'll never use that watery white or yellow crap from hardware/autoparts again if ya ever get the 'good stuff'.
http://www.jmesales.com/item/103266/Gasoila-Soft-Set-Thread-Sealants-W-PTFE.aspx

genie144 · Jul 28, 2011

Well finally got back to this and got everything buttoned up... Had a filter housing that apparently I didn't tighten all of the way... So it leaked. But having the ability to cut off 1 housing is NICE! I forgot I need coolant (had to rearrange lines and drained some onto a pile of kitty litter :badidea: ) but had the truck running for ~5 minutes.

First impression of the noise - at least half what it was. First impression of my frankenstein box - I need a suspension and body lift cause it is big... There will be no changing filters on the side of I-70 in Kansas in -10 degree weather at 2AM without a light this time...

Only problem (other than coolant) I have right now is fuel pressure. The gauge is pegged at 100psi. How do I turn the aeromotive regulator down?

Sam

racehauler · Jul 28, 2011

I have a Fuel Lab pump and mounted it to the frame with some MSD Vibration Isolators

With the key on before starting the engine you can hear the pump a little, but after I start it up you would never know it from a stock SD pump.