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Message: [QUOTE="gnxtc2, post: 1522988, member: 1414"] Is the Stancor, White Rodgers, Emerson relay really better than the OEM one? I had to swap out my third relay today. The original Stancor relay last 90k miles. The Stancor relay was replaced with a White Rodgers relay and that one lasted 60K miles. Now the relay is called an Emerson one. All the relays carry the same part #586-105111 except for the original Stancor which was known as the 586-902. I'll be referring the aforementioned relay as a "586" relay. Before I get into the 586 relay, the operation of the OEM relay is as follows. Inside the OEM relay is a disc. Everytime the OEM relay energized, the disc would rotate. The theory behind this was everytime the GPs energized, there would be a new contact surface. The OEM relay was an intermittent use one. Unless it's 90* out or the motor as some internal heat in, these motors need the GPs to start. Now the issue I had was with my truck was temperature related. When the outside ambient temperature was around 60* +/- 10*, the GPs would not energize. I thought to myself since I have a HD 200A continuous duty relay, that shouldn't be a problem. When the temps raised out of that range, GPs energized and the truck started. I have the Ford AIC in my truck. When I turn the key on to energize the GPs, I hit the "Charge Protect" button and it tells me the battery voltage. I got a reading of 10.9 volts when the GPs energized. I began to look at the battery cables on the truck. I decided to make custom ones out of 3/0 and 4/0 welding cable and utilize the military style battery connectors. I have the crimpers from being an electrical contractor. Positive cables - Passenger battery to starter - 4/0 - Passenger battery to driver side - 3/0 - Passenger battery to fender relay - #1 or #2 (I think) Both negative cables were made out of 3/0 After making the cables, the motor cranked faster. Now when the GPs energized, the voltage is 11.4 volts. I guess I needed batter cables. Fast forward to these two past weeks, the GPs would not energize. I had to jump the big terminals with a hammer to start the motor. So I bring my truck into my shop and began diagnosing the issue. I put a bulb across the control circuit of the relay. The bulb lit everytime I turned the key on. I let the PCM time out and the bulb turned off. I have a bypass switch in the cab for the GPs and activated the GPR manually after it timed out. I heard the coil activate with every press of the bypass switch but no GP activation. With the coil activated, I had power only on one side of the big terminal studs.....bad relay. So I install another so called HD 200A continuous duty relay. And the GPs once again start energizing. So I took apart the White Rodgers relay and this what a 200A continuous duty looks like after 60k miles: [ATTACH=full]176792[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]176793[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]176794[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]176795[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]176796[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]176797[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]176798[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]176799[/ATTACH] So is the 586 relay any better than the OEM one? Others have tried the GPR-109 (NAPA), the Western Plow one, generic auto parts store ones, etc, etc but to what success or failure? This might be my next relay to try. Rated at 500A [url]https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-aerospace-defense-and-marine/LEV200A4NAF/A101171-ND/2362824[/url] Thoughts, discussion, comments Billy T. [email]gnxtc2@aol.com[/email] [/QUOTE]