H&S IC Upgrade - Cutting the OEM clamp advice?

jwanck11 · Nov 5, 2015

I ordered the wrong IC piping replacement kit and got the one that requires reusing the OEM boot by cutting the clamp that secures it to the OEM pipe.

The instructions state to be careful not to nick the rubber - yes, I get that ...

Those who have successfully cut the clamp, any advice so that I avoid cutting into the rubber? I will be using a dremel with a cut off wheel.

Thanks

CoreyMS · Nov 5, 2015

Put the dremel speed real low and start in the middle. I got it just about cut, and it popped loose. If you barley knick it like a rub mark I doubt it will hurt.

stevens6.7 · Nov 5, 2015

Which one did you order? I don't want to have to cut that clamp if I don't have to.

jwanck11 · Nov 5, 2015

Thanks Corey. Appreciate the advice.

I ordered the upgrade kit and should have ordered the OEM replacement upgrade kit.

bigrpowr · Nov 5, 2015

jwanck11 said:
Thanks Corey. Appreciate the advice.

I ordered the upgrade kit and should have ordered the OEM replacement upgrade kit.

do you wanna just swap it out ?

jwalk09 · Nov 5, 2015

Cut carefully lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

BIG JUICE · Nov 5, 2015

I used a dremel with cut off wheel, just go slow

jwanck11 · Nov 5, 2015

Thanks Mike for the offer - no worries, got that clamp off without touching the boot. You are correct Corey, it just pops open when the groove gets deep enough. I set the dremel on low and took my time.

The install is not bad, but took way longer than it should. The supplied bolts to seat the throttle body assembly wanted to cross thread - so lots of playing with them to make sure they went in straight. The metal pipe is also longer on the rise than it needs to be - again, not a big deal, I just had to stuff it pretty far into the 90 degree boot.

Light was gone by the time I finished (spent a fair amount of time looking through my shop and house for a spare 6mm allen as I dropped the one I was using somewhere into the engine bay) so I will take pictures tomorrow.

CoreyMS · Nov 5, 2015

I forgot about those bolts being a pain. That was a pita.

BIG JUICE · Nov 6, 2015

Yeah I forgot to post that too, the holes are not drilled correctly. I had to enlarge one of the holes so I didn't cross thread the bolts, someone needs to notify h and s that the jig they use for holes is wrong/off. And yeah that metal pipe is resting against my intercooler coolant lines, the plastic connector part. Not a great fit. Took a hour to try and get it right but still not in there right

HS-MotorsportsZane · Nov 6, 2015

You can also just hit the clamp with a hammer and it will pop apart.

jwanck11 · Nov 6, 2015

BIG JUICE said:
Yeah I forgot to post that too, the holes are not drilled correctly. I had to enlarge one of the holes so I didn't cross thread the bolts, someone needs to notify h and s that the jig they use for holes is wrong/off. And yeah that metal pipe is resting against my intercooler coolant lines, the plastic connector part. Not a great fit. Took a hour to try and get it right but still not in there right

I did not enlarge any holes and I got all 4 bolts to go in OK. Again, lots of fiddling and took my time. I started with the bottom rear bolt (nearest the firewall) as that one was the pita. The key for me was to run them in by hand to ensure they were threading true. I then snugged them with a drive and 6mm Hex tip (one of which is still lost somewhere in my engine or is somewhere on the road. lol) I was creating metal shavings when they were not going in straight and I had to back the bolts out which is never a good thing and made sure I cleaned out the throttle body assembly before connecting the boot.

As for the 90 rubber boot, you have to have it on an angle (not straight up) pointed back to the firewall. I'd assume its between 15 and 20 degrees. With it this way, I cleared everything - barely.

The only thing I would say absolutely ought to be adjusted is the length of the vertical pipe. It is 1" too long and rests somewhat into the curve of the rubber 90 degree boot. With the vibration of operation, I am afraid at some point this will eat into the inside of the rubber. I did loosen it today and lift that pipe up a bit and trued up the angles a bit better.

All in all, mine seems to fit nicely.

jwanck11 · Nov 6, 2015

HS-MotorsportsZane said:
You can also just hit the clamp with a hammer and it will pop apart.

Now you tell me! lol. It would be a good thing to update the instructions...

HS-MotorsportsZane · Nov 6, 2015

Guy's, Sorry about the bolts being a pain to get in. These are all manufactured in a cnc mill, and it should be very hard to make the bolt pattern change. We do our absolute best to insure quality and fitment of all our products, and constantly check them when they come back from manufacturing. However we cannot address a problem unless we are called and made aware of it. We have gone through a few of these down in the stock room to verify fitment, and while the holes are tight if all the bolts are left loose they seem to fit and start correctly. I will agree however they are a little tighter than they should be. I will go and meet with our machine shop on Monday and bring this to their attention, so we can make sure we don't have any future issues. Once again guy's we apologize for the trouble and thanks for supporting us.

HS-MotorsportsZane · Nov 6, 2015

jwanck11 said:
Now you tell me! lol. It would be a good thing to update the instructions...

Will do! I just thought of that the other day and tried it, we'll put that in there

HS-MotorsportsZane · Nov 6, 2015

I also went and checked the pipe fitment on ours, and it seems when adjusted correctly it has plenty of clearance. If you are having an issue with this also please shoot us over a picture so if there is a problem we can get you taken care of.