Hangers and shackles

obs7.3 · Jan 11, 2012

anyone know roughly how much it is for 2 new hangers and 2 new shackles for the back of the rear leafs?

obs7.3 · Jan 11, 2012

nevermind. just had to get overly specific with google :lookaround:

WeBeStrokin · Jan 11, 2012

LMC will give you a close price as they are roughly the same cost as dealer.

obs7.3 · Jan 12, 2012

cool. thanks!
how'd you run a 4" down pipe?

wint · Jan 12, 2012

Well i had 60 in one side from NAPA so id say 120? lol

obs7.3 · Jan 12, 2012

i can get all the parts from napa for 90 bucks... 2 shackles, 2 hangers and new bushing for both sides. hardware included. gotta love the work place discounts

all the parts (except bushings) have a lifetime warranty. I can't bring myself to spend more than double that from Ford or LMC for the same piece of metal

wint · Jan 12, 2012

Sounds like a pretty good deal!

Pstroke96 · Jan 12, 2012

i used napa ones on mine. the hardware sucked big time. do yourself a favor and stop by the parts store and get some grade 8 bolts nuts and lock washers to mount it to the frame instead of using the bolts and bs lock nuts that come with it

wint · Jan 13, 2012

Whats wrong with the lock nuts?

obs7.3 · Jan 13, 2012

Pstroke96 said:
i used napa ones on mine. the hardware sucked big time. do yourself a favor and stop by the parts store and get some grade 8 bolts nuts and lock washers to mount it to the frame instead of using the bolts and bs lock nuts that come with it

thanks. i'll take a look at them real good before i put them on. I have grade 8 bolts and everything at the shop i'm doing the work at so i'll grab those if needed.

Pstroke96 · Jan 13, 2012

when i did mine i did the fronts also and there was zero room behind the drivers side hanger. so you couldnt hold the bolt with anything to get the nut more than a half a thread on and after about an hour of fighting it i used regular nuts and bolts and i could get it snug enough from the outside to not just turn and i could actually tighten them up.

wint · Jan 14, 2012

The bolts that come with the kit are designed for that use. Yea they are a bitch to put on but you'll never have to worry about them coming off. I don't see it as a wise choice to use anything else...

obs7.3 · Jan 14, 2012

Pstroke96 said:
when i did mine i did the fronts also and there was zero room behind the drivers side hanger. so you couldnt hold the bolt with anything to get the nut more than a half a thread on and after about an hour of fighting it i used regular nuts and bolts and i could get it snug enough from the outside to not just turn and i could actually tighten them up.

wint said:
The bolts that come with the kit are designed for that use. Yea they are a bitch to put on but you'll never have to worry about them coming off. I don't see it as a wise choice to use anything else...

opcorn:
i'm gonna let you 2 battle this out. lol. i've never done it before but i'm only doing the hangers and shackles on the back of the rear leafs.

Pstroke96 · Jan 14, 2012

i was talking about the front hanger of the rear spring there is no way to get a hold of the.bolt with a wrench to start them on the drivers side with the nuts the give you unless you drop the mid ship tank. i ended up using mechanics wire to get the bolts.into the holes then held them with vice grips.to get the nut snug on the bolt to crank it down. the rear has more room you should be able to get your hand in there with a wrench

WeBeStrokin · Jan 15, 2012

obs7.3 said:
cool. thanks!
how'd you run a 4" down pipe?

It's not a 4" dp it's only 3" but when you buy a complete exhaust it will say 4" turbo back or 5" or whatever size you are going for. It just means you are doing complete exhaust from the turbo back but like I stated it's only a 3" dp.

obs7.3 · Jan 16, 2012

Pstroke96 said:
i was talking about the front hanger of the rear spring there is no way to get a hold of the.bolt with a wrench to start them on the drivers side with the nuts the give you unless you drop the mid ship tank. i ended up using mechanics wire to get the bolts.into the holes then held them with vice grips.to get the nut snug on the bolt to crank it down. the rear has more room you should be able to get your hand in there with a wrench

oh okay. it looks like I have to drop the rear tank to get to those new back hanger bolts. plus if I have to drill out the old riviets I don't wanna hit the tank. :shrug:

WeBeStrokin said:
It's not a 4" dp it's only 3" but when you buy a complete exhaust it will say 4" turbo back or 5" or whatever size you are going for. It just means you are doing complete exhaust from the turbo back but like I stated it's only a 3" dp.

got it. makes a whole lot more sense now. hahaha

superdutyman97 · Jan 16, 2012

When i done the rear hangers and shackles on my truck i used and electric grinder to cut the heads off and pounded them out with a punch. I already had the rear tank out anyway to replace it but difinitely a good idea to drop it. Drilling them will take forever and if you drill larger than the rivet it will allow room for the bolts to move and possibly shear off. Good luck with it.

wint · Jan 16, 2012

obs7.3 said:
oh okay. it looks like I have to drop the rear tank to get to those new back hanger bolts. plus if I have to drill out the old riviets I don't wanna hit the tank. :shrug:

Just take some time and grind the heads off like said. I didnt have to drop the tank when i did mine. Have a friend hold a end wrench on there and it should go well. Ive done 2 that way now.

97powerstroke · Jan 17, 2012

Used my heavy-duty snap-on air hammer with a chisel bit on mine they didn't stand a chance. I prefer this way cause no sparks and stuff flying around and only took maybe 20 minutes to get all rivets out on both sides.

wint · Jan 17, 2012

97powerstroke said:
Used my heavy-duty snap-on air hammer with a chisel bit on mine they didn't stand a chance. I prefer this way cause no sparks and stuff flying around and only took maybe 20 minutes to get all rivets out on both sides.

Thats a good option as well.