How do you get the dash out?

[JoeDaddy]

I'm in the process of tearing into my 95' but can't get the dash out. I've pulled handfulls of 7mm screws and some 8mm bolts. Everything is off but the stupid thing is catching around the wheel like it's still got a screw or 3.

HELP!

 

[Pstroke96]

there are the four bolts under the trim pieces. remove the headlight knob, put the shifter if its an auto in first and put the wheel all the way down. pull the top out first, then up it should come right out

once that is out the bottom comes pretty much right off with two screws on the bottom and in the fuse panel. then clips at the top. take it off. i havnt pulled a complete dashboard out but thats a start for you

 

[JoeDaddy]

Yah it kicked my @ss so now Ima burn it to the ground. :fustrate:

 

[Pstroke96]

did you remove the tank selector and headlight switch from the dash? what about the fuse panel? do you have a trailer brake controller?

 

[Strokersace]

Joe, you can leave the entire dash together. Cluster and all. Don't need to remove what he mentioned above.

Dash is fairly easy once you get it out and can see what you're working with, but the 1st time blind, it's a pain!!! I've done multiple dashes and can have them out in under an hour.

You've got the 4 long 7mm screws at the windshield. 1 - 8mm on the pass side behind the kick panel cover. There are also 3, possibly 4, 8mm screws that hold the dash to the aluminum steering column support.

The steering column has to come down to access one of them. Remove the column's upper and lower plastic covers. 7mm bolt head removes the column's main wiring. Torques head (not sure on size) removes the multifuction switch (blinkers/wipers). 7/32", I think, takes care of the the tiny gear indicator cable. There's 3 or so other wire connections that need to be separated. 13mm takes care of the 4 column nuts as well as the linkage going thru the firewall. E-brake assembly also needs to be removed from the aluminum support. 13mm takes care of those 3 as well. Just flex it down onto the floor under the brake pedal.

The best way I've found is to either completely remove the aluminum support or loosen it substantially. There are 4 - 15mm bolts for that. Also, the 2 main thru-firewall plugs I(larger rectangles) need to be seperated from the engine side with a 10mm socket. They snap into place from the inside and can sometimes be tricky to remove. 2 connections behind the aluminum support that connect the dash to the cab harness need to be removed. Also there are several connections on the pass side, the grounds (both sides), and the door striker on the pass sides that all need separated.

Once you get it loose and away from the firewall, you'll need to reach up and over to remove the door blender cable for the hvac. Also note that it's a good idea to remove the radio and snake out the antenna wire as there's no disconnect between the antenna and the radio.

Again, it's a huge pain the 1st time, but it gets better and easier the more you do them!!! Good luck!