Injectors, springs, studs and rods oh my!

[Obsledpuller]

Hey guys I am installing injectors, head studs, valve springs and pushrods this weekend. Just wondering if there is an order to do them that will make things easier on me? I know there is a bunch of oil and fuel that drains into the cylinders when I remove the injectors. What if any process will fix that problem other than prayer? riest: thanks

 

[earlybroncoboy]

Get your self a large syringe from a vet store. Attach a hose suck as much out as you can through the gp holes. I attached a piece of 3/16 brake line to mine. Then with sticks installed no gp's turn it over by hand. Then by starter some will shoot out. Then your golden.

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[David N]

No need to suck it out. Just put your valve covers back on with a few bolts and turn the engine over a few times til it turns freely. That will get the oil out.

As far as the springs, good luck with the engine in the truck. I did it on a stand and it was a biotch. I can't imagine how you do the back ones next to the firewall.

And head studs, missed that somehow. Yeah you have to unbolt the engine and rock it one way to be able to get to the back studs.

If it was mine, I would pull the engine. I had mine out in 3 hours, first time. And it's soo much easier to do the mods.

 

[JD3020]

The way i do injectors is just pop em out, pop the new ones in, leave the GP's out, throw a few bolts on the VC, and with the key off jump the starter relay on the fender. Let it spin for 5 seconds or so and let it sit for a few seconds, then hit it for another 5-10 seconds. Re-install GP's and proceed to fire it up. Done several sets that way.

 

[earlybroncoboy]

Springs are fun in truck all I can say is patience. Un bolt motor mounts jack up engine with 2x4 of manifold to roll motor and you will have room.

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[MossBack]

what i did was just remove the 1/2 of the A/C box out of the way. And I did spings and pushrods while the injectors were out. I used a cardboard box to identify the intake and exhaust rockers. That way they were put back in the right spot. And be sure to properly torque the injector hold down bolt ( 120 in-lb cold 140 in-lb warm) and rocker arm bolt. And I also just removed the gp/s and install the valve cover, jumped the starter relay to purge it all out. It also helps re-prime the oil system for quicker fire up. I bought a cheap valve spring compressor form harbor freight and cut the star off and welded on a nut so I could use a end wrench on #8, #7 which are the tightest. And by sticking a zip-tie down the glow plug hole you can watch the cylinder come up and then you can pull the valve springs while it is at TDC. I also replaced the oil seals under each spring.

 

[m j]

I didnt jack the motor.
pulled heaterbox for passengerside,
modified valvespring compressor for driverside by chopping off the star wheel and welding a nut on in its place