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Message: [QUOTE="TARM, post: 75335, member: 578"] That's good on the valve springs. Do not forget to use the valve spring micrometer you need to take off the keepers and then include them when getting the right measurements. On the water injections when its really needed and used is after shutdown and the pump is no longer flowing. It works thru conduction of the water absorbing the heat from the center section and that creates an actual flow thru thermal siphoning. The 20 degree angle is actually a maximum balance point where you get the most cooling flow without hurting oil drainage. You can go with less but for it to work one port must be higher than the other. The lower port is the inlet and the higher port is the outlet. You need to make sure the outlet port carrying away the hot water runs uphill until it reaches one of the heater hoses its T'd into. The feed line needs to stay below the outlet line and ideally below the outlet port at all times until it Ts into its heater hose. Based on that T into one line that is below the top of the motor for the feed and one that is running on top as the return. Use clamps to position the hoses in ideal positions. One thing I know I have seen Bob Riley state over and over again is to always replace the IPR o-rings when installing a HPOP pump and the symptoms listed fit well. He even provides them in with the adrenaline pup I believe. SO anytime the IPR is pulled a new O-ring should be used is how I take that (within reason of course). I know I did not on either the one I had in my HPOP or the one that was sent to me as part of the dual hpop kit so I am now stuck dealing with this. I should have rebuilt both IPRs and applied volts to each to make sure the opened and closed. [/QUOTE]

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