powerstroker66
New member
I know the push rods are a MUST but ive herd people making 550hp @ 36 psi so does that mean you could get away with not doing head studs and still make over 500hp with propor tuning?
Max HP on stock head bolts?
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Bobby@cp
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Honestly I would do the headstuds.....
bad12jr
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Yes I can make a thousand horse on stock head bolts once maybe. Not worth ruining seasoned gaskets and taking the chance good 600 dollar insurance. And if you cant afford the studs 500 HP is probably not the best HP goal. You will find the weak points which usually aren't cheap.
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ghohouston
Active member
You can, I should be right around.those numbers with mods in sig, but studs are in my future
powerstroker66
New member
I have to funds to do so, but i dont feel like pulling the heads, its almost easier to pull the motor...then when the motor is out you mine aswell freshin' it up..why freshin it up when you can build it....next thing you know you dumping 5k into building a motor...
im a believier in doing it once and only once thats what im afraid of...even if i do head studs the bottom end only holds up to 550ish with good tuning and at 200k that is highly debaitable...
im a believier in doing it once and only once thats what im afraid of...even if i do head studs the bottom end only holds up to 550ish with good tuning and at 200k that is highly debaitable...
4.0l sahara
New member
Why would you pull the heads to do studs? That is just a waste of a good seated gasket.
powerstroker66
New member
to get the the back 2 bolts on the passenger side? maybe not? thats what ive read atleast..how would i without pulling the heads? This might change my plans..
Wayne
Active member
the A/C & heater box can be removed with minimal effort. Gotta evac the A/C though. Tons of room to work when that's out of the way. Also, the driver side is easier if you remove the trans cross member nuts, jack up the t-case until it almost touches the floor, and you'll have more room.
powerstroker66
New member
hmm never thought of that..thats not a bad idea..ill have to look into it! thank you!
4.0l sahara
New member
Or if you have a lift my preferred way is to lift the cab. But you can to it by pulling the heater box.
dentexpowerstroke
Active member
It's not just boost, its cylinder pressure that is why you need head studs. I ran 250/80 and a 366 on a non studded motor because it had pmrs so i didnt care if it blew. They are huge insurance for your motor.
powerstroker66
New member
that leads me to my next question, what would a safe rwhp range be on a 200k stock bottom end? 500ish? id like to break the 500rwhp boundry without pulling the motor..
Marty
New member
****Cracks fingers before typing....*****
Pushrods are not a must. Basing a HP rating @ a specific psi is leaving out half of the equasion. I've made 550 HP at 35 psi, I've also made it at 55 psi.
The answer to the question you're trying to ask is yes, you should do studs, springs and pushrods all at the same time. Whether you pull the engine to do it, do it in cab, or pull the cab is up to you. With an OBS it's pretty easy to do in cab.
You're likely around 450-490 rwhp.... about 50-100 hp shy of the # he is asking about.
If you do it right you'd refer to my first response.
x2
No need to evap the A/C. Just remove the 11 8mm head screws that hold the box in. Once that is out of the way all of the studs/springs on that side are a breeze. The driver side rear spring and stud are the biggest problem. I jack from the manifold with the engine mount nuts removed.
Lifting the cab on a 7.3 truck is easier then 6.0L trucks. Unfortunately not everybody has a lift so in the cab works just fine.
If you have any questions or want to talk about turbo/injector combo's to get you to your goals let me know. We have done a bunch that are anywhere from 400-700+ hp builds on stock forged rod bottom ends.
Pushrods are not a must. Basing a HP rating @ a specific psi is leaving out half of the equasion. I've made 550 HP at 35 psi, I've also made it at 55 psi.
The answer to the question you're trying to ask is yes, you should do studs, springs and pushrods all at the same time. Whether you pull the engine to do it, do it in cab, or pull the cab is up to you. With an OBS it's pretty easy to do in cab.
You're likely around 450-490 rwhp.... about 50-100 hp shy of the # he is asking about.
If you do it right you'd refer to my first response.
x2
No need to evap the A/C. Just remove the 11 8mm head screws that hold the box in. Once that is out of the way all of the studs/springs on that side are a breeze. The driver side rear spring and stud are the biggest problem. I jack from the manifold with the engine mount nuts removed.
Lifting the cab on a 7.3 truck is easier then 6.0L trucks. Unfortunately not everybody has a lift so in the cab works just fine.
If you have any questions or want to talk about turbo/injector combo's to get you to your goals let me know. We have done a bunch that are anywhere from 400-700+ hp builds on stock forged rod bottom ends.
powerstroker66
New member
Thanks Marty, that clears up alot..sounds like a plan though, making good HP might be cheaper and easier then i originally thought
earlybroncoboy
Member
I have herd of many trucks running higher horse on stock bottom end. I'm over 300K and probably in the mid to high 3's basing on others dyno numbers shooting for 450 and more in the future. and yes Arp's, rods, and 910's will be installed before the s366. Check into the lone stroke i believe he was pushing just south of 800 on a 200k+ stock bottom end for years so its doable.
