New Fuel System

[Dieseldan73]

After fighting a low fuel issue for months and not being to figure out why, I've decided to just start over. Right now I have a Bean's sump, Airdog 150, factory HFCM, up to factory fuel bowl, then back through a regulated return. I have a Aeromotive regulator. My plan is to go from the sump with -10 line up to a Baldwin base and water separator, to a Fuelab 41402, to another Baldwin base with a 2 micron filter, then -8 line up to a
y-block and then -6 lines to the heads. I will replace my regulator with a Fuelab 51502. The return will return to the tank. Am I missing anything? Should I install ball valves? Is there a certain brand that are diesel rated? I've heard a lot about ball valves leaking. I was first thinking about keeping the Airdog as a lift pump for the Fuelab, but have been told it is unnecessary. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

[ford rules]

No ball valves needed, that setup will work fine.

 

[Dieseldan73]

Cool, my filters and filter heads just showed and setting ready to order the pump and regulator right now. I should have done this a long time ago, instead of just changing filters and going through 4 factory HFCM. I've wasted plenty of time and money.

 

[Mdub707]

What's the meaning behind getting rid of the aeromotive regulator for the fuelab? Not that the fuelab is a bad unit at all, but what's wrong with what you have for regulation?

I dig the plans for the rest of the setup. The fuelab 41401 would be fine too and a little less money. The 41402 is pretty much overkill for most of us LOL

Fuelab says if it's sumped you don't need the lift pump, but if you pull from the top of the tank, it's recommended. Though, there are guys who pull from the top with them without issue and no lift pump.

 

[Dieseldan73]

What's the meaning behind getting rid of the aeromotive regulator for the fuelab? Not that the fuelab is a bad unit at all, but what's wrong with what you have for regulation?

I dig the plans for the rest of the setup. The fuelab 41401 would be fine too and a little less money. The 41402 is pretty much overkill for most of us LOL

Fuelab says if it's sumped you don't need the lift pump, but if you pull from the top of the tank, it's recommended. Though, there are guys who pull from the top with them without issue and no lift pump.

Honestly, I'm replacing the regulator because at this point I just want to replace the whole system and be done. To make a long story short, I had the stock fuel system and just the regulated return with 155/30 injectors. Last June, I noticed that with my regulated set at 55-60 psi, at WOT it would drop to upper 20's. I replaced my stock HFCM with a used one. No difference, I bought a brand new one. No difference. I then put a sump and an Airdog 150. It helped, but still dropped into the upper 30's. This year, I replpaced all filters again, rebuilt the regulator, bought yet another brand new Ford HFCM and its no different. Its been very fustrating. I have 2 fuel pressure on my CTS. One at the fuel bowl and one at the regulator. The both read within 2 psi of each other and both drop at WOT. Some have said that the Aeromotive isn't diesel rated and the Fuelab is. I don't really think it matters.

As far as keeping the Airdog 150, I heard it both ways. Some say I don't need it, others say since the Fuelab will be above the sump level to keep it and keep the strain off the Fuelab.

I ordered everything and just need the hoses and fittings. I need to make a bracket to mount all this stuff on. I wish someone sold just a bracket, but I guess I'll just fab one up.

 

[Mdub707]

I vote just the fuelab pump, you should not need that AD, but it's not like it will hurt and you do already have it there....

Sounds like the pump is the only issue, just not enough to keep up with the needed volume. If it held constant pressure at idle, I would assume the regulator is just fine as well. If there was an issue there I'd expect pressure to be amiss.

 

[Strictly Diesel]

If 2 different stock pumps won't keep up with 155s, there is SOMETHING ELSE wrong. You shouldn't need a new regulator and shouldn't need more pump than you have for that injector...period!

What regulated return? Factory secondary fuel filter bowl still in the loop?

 

[Dieseldan73]

If 2 different stock pumps won't keep up with 155s, there is SOMETHING ELSE wrong. You shouldn't need a new regulator and shouldn't need more pump than you have for that injector...period!

What regulated return? Factory secondary fuel filter bowl still in the loop?

Yes, still have the factory second filter. I also replaced the factory supply and return lines from the HFCM to the quick connects at the engine. There are no kinks in the lines. I often wondered if the factory banjo bolt that connects to the fuel bowl could be bad. It is a dozer diesel stage 2 regulated return. It has 90 degree connectors at the front and back of the heads and all 3/8" hoses I believe. I took all the hoses off last year just to check for obstructions in the lines. There were none. I have spent numerous hours on figuring this out and have not found it yet.

 

[04stroker]

Something else is wrong I think I have customers run 155cc injectors all the time with just a RR. And have had 190ccinjevtors maintain with the exact setup you have now.

 

[Dieseldan73]

Something else is wrong I think I have customers run 155cc injectors all the time with just a RR. And have had 190ccinjevtors maintain with the exact setup you have now.

But what? If it drops at both the fuel bowl and regulator after the heads then it has to be from the tank to the fuel bowl and everything has been replaced except the banjo bolt and fuel bowl it self.

 

[FaSSt9602]

Is there a chance that you have a small leak in your lines somewhere? It almost sounds like you could be sucking air in the system somewhere.

Edit:

If you have a Dozers POS "system", what does his kit do for the factory regulator? I was always under the impression that his kit didn't utilize the factory fuel bowl. Do you or do you not still have the factory regulator spring in place? The Driven Diesel (Strictly Diesel) kit has an awesome billet piece that takes the place of the factory regulator cover.

 

[Dieseldan73]

Here is a little video I took today. It taking off from a stop light under light throttle and then giving 3/4 throttle. This was not even wide open. Bear with me if the video doesn't work right. First time embedding a YouTube video.

<iframe width="960" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/6tSpsUpT4qg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Dieseldan73]

Apparently I didn't do it right. Any instructions how to do this would be appreciated.

 

[Dieseldan73]

http://youtu.be/6tSpsUpT4qg

 

[Strictly Diesel]

Can you post some pictures of the fuel system plumbing, particularly how the secondary filter bowl is plumbed. Sorry, I don't know that kit well enough, but I might be able to spot the issue if I can see what we are working with.

If posting is a problem, email them to me at [email protected]

 

[Dieseldan73]

Edit:

If you have a Dozers POS "system", what does his kit do for the factory regulator? I was always under the impression that his kit didn't utilize the factory fuel bowl. Do you or do you not still have the factory regulator spring in place? The Driven Diesel (Strictly Diesel) kit has an awesome billet piece that takes the place of the factory regulator cover.

The kit uses the factory fuel bowl. The factory spring is not in there anymore. The return is blocked off and the return from the regulator is connector to the original return pipe. Dozers stage 1 and 2 kept the fuel bowl, and the stage 3 deleted it.

 

[Dieseldan73]

Can you post some pictures of the fuel system plumbing, particularly how the secondary filter bowl is plumbed. Sorry, I don't know that kit well enough, but I might be able to spot the issue if I can see what we are working with.

If posting is a problem, email them to me at [email protected]

Thanks, will try to get some pictures tomorrow and will post them.