Oil Pan Repair

juniort444e · May 29, 2014

I have been battling a pesky :cursing: oil leak for quite some time now. Tonight I decided I was going to drain the oil and figure something out, and that's when I noticed I had a fine crack in the bottom of the pan.

So what are my options? Can I jb weld it? Weld it with mig or tig with out catching the whole truck on fire? Or replace it?

I know this is stupid, but if I have to replace it, does the motor have to come out?

I also thought about cutting out a section, which would help me clean everything really well on the inside (not sure if it would be enough tho) and weld a new section back in. Sounds like a lot of work tho.

Just lost on this. Any help is appreciated.

DEEZUZ · May 29, 2014

Pull motor. New pan, comes with new dipstick seal and assembly also. Motorcraft only, do not go aftermarket

co04cobra · May 29, 2014

If it's only cracked and not rusted it can be welded. Drain oil, brake clean around hole, air blow around the crack and inside, then weld.

We have fixed many oil pans this way with small holes or cracks. 7.3s, 6.0s, etc...

juniort444e · May 29, 2014

Thanks guys. I was talking with my dad since he welds for a living and he will try to weld it for me.

And after hearing that that's what you do Cobra I will definitely give that a shot since I don't have much time for pulling the engine right now.

Do you mig or tig weld the pans? My dad only has mig welders available to him, but I have a few friends that can tig if need be.

co04cobra · May 29, 2014

Mig is what we use, but I think tig could be even better since it would keep the heat down better.

You will fight a little oil seeping as the heat from the weld goes through. You may have to stop and reclean depending on how much comes out.

You can also jack the truck up on opposite side of the crack to help get some of the oil to run away.

With your dad being a welder he won't have any problem with it.

juniort444e · May 29, 2014

All great tips that I didn't think of. Thanks a ton.

I will see if one of my buddies has a portable tig that they can come out here with, if not I will let my dad work his magic.

The truck is sitting with the oil drain plug out until it gets fixed, to help try to dry up some oil, but I will jack up the one side tomorrow to help even more.

Thanks again.

PDT1081 · May 29, 2014

CTC DEEZUL said:
Pull motor. New pan, comes with new dipstick seal and assembly also. Motorcraft only, do not go aftermarket

Moroso makes a gasket you can use instead of the gray death. It is possible to replace the pan without pulling the motor.

fastersteve · May 30, 2014

Don't use brake cleaner on parts you're going to weld. The combination of the Argon gas, arc of the welder and brake cleaner creates phosgene gas, which was used in chemical warfare in WW1. Tiny amounts can be fatal.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosgene

Acetone or mineral spirits are a much safer choice.

co04cobra · May 30, 2014

fastersteve said:
Don't use brake cleaner on parts you're going to weld. The combination of the Argon gas, arc of the welder and brake cleaner creates phosgene gas, which was used in chemical warfare in WW1. Tiny amounts can be fatal.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosgene

Acetone or mineral spirits are a much safer choice.

This may be true but the compressed air finishes drying it before you weld. If that tiny of an amount is fatal, I couldn't count the # of dead mechanics I would know.

I'm not saying people shouldn't use caution, but I would be more worried of the truck falling and causing my death, before that combination first.

backwoodsboy · May 31, 2014

fastersteve said:
Don't use brake cleaner on parts you're going to weld. The combination of the Argon gas, arc of the welder and brake cleaner creates phosgene gas, which was used in chemical warfare in WW1. Tiny amounts can be fatal.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosgene

Acetone or mineral spirits are a much safer choice.

This is only true for chlorinated brake cleaner.

juniort444e · Jun 9, 2014

PDT1081 said:
Moroso makes a gasket you can use instead of the gray death. It is possible to replace the pan without pulling the motor.

Please elaborate more for me. This would be the first time I have ever heard of someone saying it is doable, and Im all ears.

fastersteve said:
Don't use brake cleaner on parts you're going to weld. The combination of the Argon gas, arc of the welder and brake cleaner creates phosgene gas, which was used in chemical warfare in WW1. Tiny amounts can be fatal.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosgene

Acetone or mineral spirits are a much safer choice.

The good part is that we are still alive and did not die from phosgene, but I couldn't get the last couple of drops out of the pan and it prevented any penetration of the weld. It doesn't help that my dads little mig welder is crap. So for now I put jb weld on it that is oil resistant.

Im thinking of cutting out the bottom so I can dry the inside out completely, and put a little thicker peace back on with the oil plug and dimple.

sniper_101 · Jun 9, 2014

juniort444e said:
Please elaborate more for me. This would be the first time I have ever heard of someone saying it is doable, and Im all ears.

www.riffraffdiesel.com/oil-pan-gasket/

I don't have any details, or review of it. But incase you wanted to check it out. ^^^

co04cobra · Jun 9, 2014

juniort444e said:
Please elaborate more for me. This would be the first time I have ever heard of someone saying it is doable, and Im all ears.

The good part is that we are still alive and did not die from phosgene, but I couldn't get the last couple of drops out of the pan and it prevented any penetration of the weld. It doesn't help that my dads little mig welder is crap. So for now I put jb weld on it that is oil resistant.

Im thinking of cutting out the bottom so I can dry the inside out completely, and put a little thicker peace back on with the oil plug and dimple.

It is not always easy to get it dry that is for sure. I have repaired a couple by cutting off the bottom, like you are describing, and then welding the piece back after repairing the hole.

It is more time consuming, but does allow to get everything much cleaner inside.

juniort444e · Jun 9, 2014

Im pretty sure that when I get a weekend when I am not busy that, that is the way I am going to go. Plus when I put on that fancy billet dip stick piece, the old one stay in the inside of the oil pan, so itll be nice to get that out of there as well.

PDT1081 · Jun 11, 2014

sniper_101 said:
www.riffraffdiesel.com/oil-pan-gasket/

I don't have any details, or review of it. But incase you wanted to check it out. ^^^

The guy that did my brother's truck (02 ECSB, 4x4) said they ended up loosening the body mounts slightly and were able to get the motor to move up enough to replace the pan.

rusty1161 · Jun 11, 2014

Four Wheeler did a Moroso gasket and pan replacement http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/1405-ford-73l-power-stroke-oil-pan-repair-problem-solved/

Rusty

littleredstroker · Jun 11, 2014

PDT1081 said:
The guy that did my brother's truck (02 ECSB, 4x4) said they ended up loosening the body mounts slightly and were able to get the motor to move up enough to replace the pan.

sounds like a **** load of extra screwing with things just to avoid spending the 2 hours it takes to pull a motor..