P0088 Hpfp Questions

Petro · May 25, 2012

Alright as Ive mentioned before Im getting the P0088 code in my 6.4. Now I was told today that if you get a P0088 code your pump is FOR SURE on its way out. Is this the truth or have some of you guys replaced fuel rail pressure sensors or any other sensors and fixed the issue? I WAS leaning toward it being a sensor, because it seems to come and go with the changing of tunes. When it first started this, I was running my IDP tow tune, it threw the code maybe 4 times. I then switched to my street tune for over a month without one code. I Then ran Ex Race for another 2 weeks without one issue. A week ago I Began running EX Mild and within 2 days it threw the code again. I have since switched back to Street and have been on that for the last 3 or 4 days. Yesterday while towing close to 15000 pounds it threw the code twice which has maybe changed my opinion on the sensor theory. Now sorry for the crazy long post but does this point to a bad HPFP, Was it just a coincidence that it quit after i changed tunes? Which sensors do I check and where are they located in this Cluster F*ck Ford calls an Engine Bay. Im planning on pulling the cab soon for other reason so Id like to try and figure it out before then so I know if i need to buy a HPFP while im at it. Ive also changed fuel filters and have found NO metal shavings of any Kind (Thank God). Thanks in Advance, just wanting some input from guys that have gone through this already.

Petro · May 25, 2012

Recently I have really been watching my Rail Pressure with my Livewire. The few times I have caught it doing this, the rail pressure for example at cruising speed will be sitting in between 50 and 60 (this is what the Live wire reads). While watching the desired and actual pressure readings, the actual reading will climb ever so slightly above the desired FRP, maybe 5 to 10 and then go back to normal. Then i check my codes and there it is. So would a failing pump go for over a month and a half without having any problems?

Dzchey21 · May 25, 2012

Petro said:
Recently I have really been watching my Rail Pressure with my Livewire. The few times I have caught it doing this, the rail pressure for example at cruising speed will be sitting in between 50 and 60 (this is what the Live wire reads). While watching the desired and actual pressure readings, the actual reading will climb ever so slightly above the desired FRP, maybe 5 to 10 and then go back to normal. Then i check my codes and there it is. So would a failing pump go for over a month and a half without having any problems?

Try a sensor first

Petro · May 26, 2012

Is the fuel rail pressure sensor the only sensor to replace? Where is it located? Id like to know if anyone that has had this problem has solved the issue by replacing a sensor.

Petro · May 26, 2012

Dzchey21 · May 26, 2012

Its under the passenger side valve cover.

The code is throwing because desired rail and actual don't match. About the only things it can be is the sensor, the hpfp, our the harnesses for the pump under the pump cover grounding out on the block effectively raising the pcv or vcv value and making the pump output higher than desired. So I would do the sensor first just because. Some tunes may have a higher threshold for that particular code.

Petro · May 26, 2012

So either way the cab has to come off to replace the sensor or the HPFP. I understand why its throwing the code, and I understand what could be causing it. What I really want to know is if Anyone Has fixed this problem by just replacing the FRP sensor. Ive done a ton of research on this subject and havnt really come up with alot.

Dzchey21 · May 26, 2012

You can do both cab on...

Petro · May 27, 2012

Ya but by the time I fight everything with the cab on, I could probably pull the cab and have it done in the same time. The cab is going to come off regardless for head gaskets and studs, so i guess when im doin that ill replace the sensor and if that doesnt do it ill attemt pulling the turbos cab on and see how it goes. I still would really like to get some feedback from some people that have changed the sensor and fixed the problem. That was the whole point of this thread.

Dzchey21 · May 27, 2012

I would consider replacing the pump while the cab is off. The sensor really isn't that hard.

Petro · May 27, 2012

Alright, well in that case I guess Ill get a used pump on the way. I just hope in 10,000 miles I dont have the same problem.

Dzchey21 · May 27, 2012

What I would do is get the sensor replaced before it goes under for gaskets and studs. Then that way you can get some time on it with the new sensor to see of that changes anything. If it doesn't then go after the pump and harness with the cab off and it should be ok. Look for a pump someone took out to replace with a industrial pump. That way you know it was good and no true reason to replace it

Petro · May 28, 2012

Alright, Ill see If i can pull the turbos and replace the sensor. I have a pump found from a guy on here, gurenteed it to work. Gave me a great deal. Thanks For the advice Man.

Dzchey21 · May 28, 2012

You don't have to remove the turbos to get to the sensor. All you will have to do is remove the intake and maybe the battery and tray on the passenger side. Then remove the flow plug harness and flow plug controller. Then the oil fill and then the valve cover should come right out then its easy to remove and replace the sensor from there . I don't think the rail needs removed from the head or anything but I might be wrong.

Petro · May 28, 2012

Ok, I was under the impression there was no way to remove the valve covers without pulling the turbos, I guess I havnt looked really carefully to see. That makes me feel alot better about doin it.

max2006 · Jun 26, 2012

Petro said:
Ok, I was under the impression there was no way to remove the valve covers without pulling the turbos, I guess I havnt looked really carefully to see. That makes me feel alot better about doin it.

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I just had mine HPFP replaced at 131K because of P0088 code. Wheather you can do cab on or cab off is somewhat dependent on getting exhaust turbo bolts loose. Ford sends a wrench kit with the pump, however in some cases it may still be eaiser to lift the cab.

Be careful of used pumps. There is a possiable defect in early pumps, mostly pressure control valve sticking I think.

There is a Ford TSB for the P0088 problem.

TSB 11-4-22 6.4L - LACKS POWER - DTC P0088

Publication Date: April 27, 2011

FORD: 2008-2010 F-250, F-350, F-450, F-550

This article supersedes TSB 11-4-15 to update the Service Labor Time Standards.

ISSUE:
Some F-Super Duty 250-550 vehicles equipped with a 6.4L diesel engine may exhibit a lack of power concern with an intermittent diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0088; at full operating temperature during moderate to heavy acceleration.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Intermittent P0088 diagnostics:

Check all continues memory DTCs. Is DTC P0088 the only code present?
No - do not continue with this procedure. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emission Diagnostics (PC/ED) to diagnose this concern.
Yes - continue to Step 2
Replace the high pressure pump (HPP). Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-04C for HPP replacement.
Both the fuel volume control valve (VCV) and fuel pressure control valve (PCV) adaptive learning parameters must be reset after a HPP replacement. Refer to PC/ED, Section 4, Hard Start/No Start Diagnostic Subroutines step 7 to reset adaptive tables.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
8C3Z-9A543-B High Pressure Fuel Pump

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
10-20-10

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
110422A 2008-2010 F-Super Duty 6.4L Regular Cab: Check DTCs And Replace the HPP Includes Time For Prior Approval, Remove And Install Cab, And Reset Both VCV And PCV Adaptive Learning (Do Not Use with Any Other Labor Operation Except For Other Applicable TSB Articles) 8.9 Hrs.
110422A 2008-2010 F-Super Duty 6.4L Super And Crew Cab: Check DTCs And Replace the HPP Includes Time For Prior Approval, Remove And Install Cab, And Reset Both VCV And PCV Adaptive Learning (Do Not Use with Any Other Labor Operation Except For Other Applicable TSB Articles) 9.1 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
9A543 42

Big Angry Hillbilly · Aug 3, 2012

First off, why would you put a USED hp pump on an engine you need to take the cab off to work on.

The gasket set is almost 200 dollars for crying out loud. Buy a new pump unless you like doing things twice.

There is a superceded TSB for the pump replacement. Its a calibration update, which is unlikely to be included in your aftermarket calibration.

It is, however worthy of note thar an updated/new pump has an updated part number from the pump that originally came in your truck.

Luckily, my P0088 set when the 'replace the pump' TSB was still the fix for the issue.

Hope this helps.

Petro · Aug 3, 2012

You do realize this thread is like 4 months old right? And At the time I had NO MONEY so a used pump was sounding pretty good for the price.

Big Angry Hillbilly · Aug 4, 2012

Spending money/time on labor twice is a much better idea then waiting until the necessary funds are available to repair something properly.

A wheel bearing, or an alternator or something I'd have no problem putting on used. A precision device like a hpfp, you won't have any idea how its been handled after removal, and you have to ask yourself why someone would be willing to part out a good running engine's hpfp to sell it used.

Not to mention you know no maintenance history on a used pump. Had water run through it? Gasoline? Was it setting a P0088 too?

Like I said the gasket set alone is like $200. I'd hate to have to buy that twice to save money by getting a used pump if it turns out to be no good.

Out of curiosity, what's a used hpfp worth?