Questions about 6.4 new to diesels

[rekt]

Been lurking on here for a while and im stuck in between a 6.4 and and a LMM. Im leaning towards the 6.4 cause of the interior and exterior of the truck and the fact that it runs like a duramax with a built trans, lift pump etc...

What would it take to get a CCSB into 105 mph traps in the 1/4? Also Reliability wise in the duramax forum guys have been saying that the 6.4's are very un reliable. I keep hearing this local, can anyone tell me what i can do to avoid a melt down in one of these? Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:

 

[drunk on diesel]

run good tuning and don't try to kill it

I've seen 6.4's stand up to a ton of abuse. We see 5-10 a year with cracked pistons. Usually in the winter, and usually on H&S canned tuning.

But I see thousands running up and down the road every year also. Including my own.

I've owned 5 of them, and I've never had a problem with mine.

You couldn't give me a POS rattle trap tin can LMM!!!

you can trap 105 or dang close to it tune-only. an atmo turbo will ensure it

 

[Powerstroke Man 6.4]

run good tuning and don't try to kill it

I've seen 6.4's stand up to a ton of abuse. We see 5-10 a year with cracked pistons. Usually in the winter, and usually on H&S canned tuning.

But I see thousands running up and down the road every year also. Including my own.

I've owned 5 of them, and I've never had a problem with mine.

You couldn't give me a POS rattle trap tin can LMM!!!

Same experience here

 

[drunk on diesel]

I tuned an 08 ccsb that went 13.00 @ 103 on stock 20's and worn out 275's lay week.

Could only launch at 10psi because it was hopping the front due to tire spin

 

[drunk on diesel]

Truck is full weight daily driver with 200k miles. Stock fuel and air

 

[rekt]

I tuned an 08 ccsb that went 13.00 @ 103 on stock 20's and worn out 275's lay week.

Could only launch at 10psi because it was hopping the front due to tire spin

Truck is full weight daily driver with 200k miles. Stock fuel and air

Thats badass. At weight DA? Ive been looking but haven't seen much a CCSB, what would other mods can you do besides tune, intake, exhaust to push the stock turbos?

 

[drunk on diesel]

Not sure what the DA was, but it wasn't a mine shaft night by any means.

You can spray it, obviously, but I would do turbo/turbos first, personally

 

[drunk on diesel]

You could add more fuel, but the stock turbos are on the edge of comfort on stock fuel with a big tune IMO

 

[Powerstroke Man 6.4]

Not sure what the DA was, but it wasn't a mine shaft night by any means.

You can spray it, obviously, but I would do turbo/turbos first, personally

How much would you spray? a buddy of mine wants to spray the magic juice.. I told him to turbos first LOL.

 

[drunk on diesel]

I'd start small and watch EGT.

EBP is going to get nuts, so I probably wouldn't pay attention to it (I realize the factory sensor is long-pegged already)

 

[rekt]

I'd start small and watch EGT.

EBP is going to get nuts, so I probably wouldn't pay attention to it (I realize the factory sensor is long-pegged already)

Is your truck studded? So if you stud it you can go more aggressive on the tune?

I really dont feel like spending 2k on trans parts without labor, then all the bolt ons just to run what these 6.4s run with a big tune.

 

[drunk on diesel]

no studs here

can't really get any more aggressive and pick up anything really... more duration drops rail pressure, and another degree of timing on the big end loses MPH

One thing that should be considered on a 6.0 or 6.4... and I know this flies in the face of every true keyboard racer/mechanic's gospel...

But when a 6.0 or 6.4 starts to compromise the head gasket, all it does is pressurize the cooling system. It doesn't put water in the oil. It doesn't consume water at idle or even while driving like a sane human for the next 100k miles. Just under peak pressure/power does it lift and pressurize the cooling system.

three drops of coolant on the top of your over-full coolant jug does not require immediate cab removal.

The truck in question is not pushing coolant, but if it starts to shed a few tears after a 1/4 mile run or a 60-120 highway pull, it'll probably continue to do so for another 20-50k miles before it becomes an issue actually worth "fixing"

My biggest litmus test when it comes to truck shopping is to go hop in and drive four or five of each... the average GM HD truck I hop in with 175k miles is falling apart, doors creaking, dash rattling, etc. Compound that with the weak transmission and I just fail to see the attraction, personally. The ONLY thing a GM does better than Ford or Dodge is to run down the road like a car when it's fairly new. Some people like that. That's cool. I can't afford that.

I like a truck that feels solid with 200k or 300k on it. I like a transmission that will hold 575rwhp from 100k miles to 200+k miles (on the same fluid!). I like a dash board that doesn't fall apart. I like door handles that I can actually find when I'm trying to get out of the truck. You know... little stuff...

 

[rekt]

no studs here

can't really get any more aggressive and pick up anything really... more duration drops rail pressure, and another degree of timing on the big end loses MPH

One thing that should be considered on a 6.0 or 6.4... and I know this flies in the face of every true keyboard racer/mechanic's gospel...

But when a 6.0 or 6.4 starts to compromise the head gasket, all it does is pressurize the cooling system. It doesn't put water in the oil. It doesn't consume water at idle or even while driving like a sane human for the next 100k miles. Just under peak pressure/power does it lift and pressurize the cooling system.

three drops of coolant on the top of your over-full coolant jug does not require immediate cab removal.

The truck in question is not pushing coolant, but if it starts to shed a few tears after a 1/4 mile run or a 60-120 highway pull, it'll probably continue to do so for another 20-50k miles before it becomes an issue actually worth "fixing"

So what is the best thing to do as far as push the OEM turbos?

I baby my cars and only beat on them a handful of times a month i just want something i can haul my toys around and be comfy, reliable and fast. So far the 6.4 is whats on top.

My biggest litmus test when it comes to truck shopping is to go hop in and drive four or five of each... the average GM HD truck I hop in with 175k miles is falling apart, doors creaking, dash rattling, etc. Compound that with the weak transmission and I just fail to see the attraction, personally. The ONLY thing a GM does better than Ford or Dodge is to run down the road like a car when it's fairly new. Some people like that. That's cool. I can't afford that.

I like a truck that feels solid with 200k or 300k on it. I like a transmission that will hold 575rwhp from 100k miles to 200+k miles (on the same fluid!). I like a dash board that doesn't fall apart. I like door handles that I can actually find when I'm trying to get out of the truck. You know... little stuff...

I agree completely, i used to car pool with my buddy with a dodge and the interior quality was pretty bad, reminded me of a dodge neon rental from like 02.

Ive riden in my friends 6.0 harley and my buddies 6.4 king ranch and fell in love with the fords after riding in them.

I drove a LMM from miami to Louisiana for a job i took up and liked it drove it for like 2 days straight on the highway with a boat attached half the trip, it wasn't that bad as far as interior quality given it was the leather navi model, i just know myself and ill want to hot rod it a bit spending 2k just to be able to run with a 6.4 is dumb imo.

 

[TyCorr]

Tuning will "push" the turbos as you say. Good tuning is maxing out everything on an otherwise stock truck.

And he appears to be correct. Trucks left stock seem to start really wearing down after 100k with all the eemissions equip left intact.

Find something low mile,clean, and dooleet it.

 

[1ATony]

Love that truck, thanks for joining.
Tony :rockon: