Rear disc axle?

[97strokerHD]

Is there any rear disc brake axle that would be easy to swap into an obs? I know I can use a super duty axle and redrill the hubs. Just trying to see if there is anything else out there that I am not thinking of.

 

[JD3020]

You have the Dodge D80's, and then the AAM axles. But they require moving shock mounts and spring perches IIRC. Too much work just for discs when drums work fine. I think the van axles are a direct bolt-up, but they are weaker than a 10.25.

 

[97strokerHD]

i was looking at the AAM axles. only problem i'm finding with them is everything that they came out of ran a speed sensor in the trans or transfer case, not the rear diff like our trucks. in what dodges would i find the dana 80?

 

[under construction]

Just buy the bolt on conversion brackets from ruffstuff or ballistic offroad and convert your current rear axle to disk brakes if you want them. That what I did on my old 97.

 

[97strokerHD]

I haven't found a kit that will let me keep a factory style e-brake. Most kits don't allow for an e-brake at all.

 

[94.5 Stroker]

Use e350 rotors and SD calipers. That will retain the stock ebrake cable

 

[rusty1161]

Use e350 rotors and SD calipers. That will retain the stock ebrake cable

Not exactly. You need the SD backing plate with the e-brake mechanism, too. That's the hard part.

Rusty

 

[97strokerHD]

That's why I want to swap an entire axle. This way I can hopefully just cut the cables to length and then hook them up at the equalizer bar.

 

[FrankTheTank]

Run a 99-04 axle and re drill the hubs to 6.5x8

 

[rusty1161]

Run a 99-04 axle and re drill the hubs to 6.5x8

:whs:

Rusty

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

Uhh.....that's what I said on his gear ratio thread....

 

[97strokerHD]

That's what I'm going to do. Was just trying to see if there were other options. Checking on everything before I spend my money. Now do you guys think it would be ok to redrill the hubs between the holes for the old pattern? Or should I mill the original holes out to fit the standard pattern and use wheel studs with a larger base?

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

The originator of this idea has done it both ways. I personally don't like the extra holes, and will be doing it with larger splinied area studs. They are hard to come by, but available. This way it is virtually factory and the modification looks factory. No possible weakness.

 

[97strokerHD]

That makes sense. Time to start collecting parts.

 

[wildbillcody97]

The originator of this idea has done it both ways. I personally don't like the extra holes, and will be doing it with larger splinied area studs. They are hard to come by, but available. This way it is virtually factory and the modification looks factory. No possible weakness.<br/>

Could you explain more for me please having a stupid moment... Thanks

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[rusty1161]

The originator of this idea has done it both ways. I personally don't like the extra holes, and will be doing it with larger splinied area studs. They are hard to come by, but available. This way it is virtually factory and the modification looks factory. No possible weakness.<br/>

Could you explain more for me please having a stupid moment... Thanks

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If you drill eight more holes to make the 8x6.5" bolt pattern, you end up taking out more metal than if you were to only machine the original holes bigger with the correct offset for a stud with a larger diameter knurl and end up with the 8x6.5" bolt pattern. Clear as mud?

Rusty

 

[97strokerHD]

Clear as mud. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[jschildm]

To play a little devils advocate .... If you machine the existing hole bigger, doesn't that make it so there is actually less material around the stud, potentially making it weaker than just drilling 8 new holes.

I would guess both ways would work fine, but I am just not sure the added machining complexity and difficulty finding studs it for something that might not actually be better.

 

[rusty1161]

To play a little devils advocate .... If you machine the existing hole bigger, doesn't that make it so there is actually less material around the stud, potentially making it weaker than just drilling 8 new holes.

I would guess both ways would work fine, but I am just not sure the added machining complexity and difficulty finding studs it for something that might not actually be better.

I don't think so. The machining is taking material from the inside portion of the flange, not getting closer to the outside.

Rusty

 

[Krause]

The hub flange is very thick, like 5/8's or something. But where the original studs are, its even thicker, like 3/4's or 7/8's thick. So redrilling the original holes and using a bigger stud is stronger no doubt. Although I doubt anyone would have an issue with it the other way either.