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Message: [QUOTE="Mark13, post: 1218646, member: 10098"] I have a 2008 Brute 23+5 lo pro. Dual 10k Dexter axles, 12k suspension, cross members on 12" centers, torque tube, 2 flip ramps with a lift up center, 24,999gvwr. 8800lb empty. Pros: -Built tough, doesn't matter what you put on it, it doesn't care one bit. No flex, no twist, nothing. -Pulls nice and is well balanced empty. Cons: -Heavy -Dovetail is very high. Hardly ever drags but makes for steep ramps. I can't say anything about paint quality. I bought the trailer used and it had already been repainted once at that point. However the trailer was previously used by a freight company and I was told it had an easy 100k or more miles on it when I got it. It's spent it's entire life in the midwest and used during the winter so I can't complain to much. I've probably put 40k or more on it since I bought it and still no problems. [ATTACH=full]152241[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]152242[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]152243[/ATTACH] The farm I work for has a 2013 or 2014 30+5 Big Flex.. I mean Big Tex 10k axles, lo pro, 2 flip ramps with a lift up center. Pros: -Cheap, or that's all I can figure from looking at it. -Very low dove tail, loading angle is very nice for running tracked skid steers up and down the ramps. Mine is scary to load, their trailer is a walk in the park. Cons: -Paint/Powdercoating sucks. It gets used hard, but it looks like it's 10 years old already. -Low dovetail, drags on EVERYTHING. I mean everything, it spends more time touching the ground then the tires do. -Wiring looks like a blind 10yr old did it without anyone helping him. I usually spend several hours multiple times a year messing with the wiring on it or repairing problems. The brakes have been rewired multiple times already. The factory butt connectors look like they were barely crimped, wires are always pulling out of the connectors anywhere on the trailer that hasn't been repaired by us already. -The lift up center in the rear has had the hinges reworked a couple times to keep them from failing. They lasted about a month when we first got the trailer. -The ramps must be built from the lightest angle iron they could find. [ATTACH=full]152244[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]152245[/ATTACH] Things I would suggest to those buying a trailer: Get heavier axles then you think you need. If you think you are ok with 10k, get 12k. I have 10k and wish I had 15k's If you can get electric over hydraulic brakes, do it. Electric drum brakes are a sad excuse for trailer brakes. 10k and 12k trailers with EOH brakes get disc brakes. 15k axles get EOH drum brakes. Get the ratchet rail with the sliding binders down the side of the trailer. They take 4" straps but are great. You can use them with 2" straps just things can get a little tangled up at times. Get a few extra lights, you don't need 100 of them down the side but 5 or 7 compared to the normal 3 looks nicer. My next trailer will have a light every 18" down both sides. Get a nice underbody box for your straps. Nothing is more annoying then having chains, binders, straps, and ratchets all in one big tangled mess in the front chain box. On my trailer chains and binders go in the box between the neck up rights. Straps get rolled up and put in a milk crate, ratchets fold shut then put them in a separate milk crate. 4" straps get wound up and stacked next to the milk crates in the side box. A deck up on the neck is handy. It's nice for taking along that extra skid steer bucket or set of forks but not having to move them on/off the deck all day if you're hauling bales or moving multiple machines at once. It also doubles as a good place to watch a truck and tractor pull from. A winch on the neck might be hardly ever used but it's the handiest thing in the world when you need one. Dual jacks, it's nice being able to unhook the trailer loaded and not wonder if it's going to tip over or sink to china. Get a torque tube down the center of the trailer frame. They help tremendously with trailer flex and twist. [/QUOTE]