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Message: [QUOTE="TARM, post: 422942, member: 578"] Sorry but how is anyone going to ever learn to work on their own stuff if they are told if you try you will for sure F it up. Thats is just not the case if you take your time have some patience and a tad bit of common sense. I do realize these days with the younger crowd many have not been taught to do things for themselves like our parents expected of us and that instant gratification is the norm without any hard work. But come on U joints really????? I do get what you saying and yes I have seen so many people screw up what I thought just could not be screwed up. I bang my head on a wall watching some people. But I never want to discourage someone from doing their own work by saying things like YOU WILL SCREW IT UP etc... IMO one of the huge issues we have in this country is everyone wants to be spoon fed everything. They think its somehow their right and it seems less and less of the youth even know what a goods day hard work is. IMO anything that can help someone become more self reliant I want to help foster. Getting off my soap box now. Please do not take this as an attack on you personally as its was certainly not meant to convey that feeling. You can follow the instruction for ball joint or unit bear removal to see how step by step to take out the axle shaft. Its really very easy. If you need help I will point you to the instructions but try doing a search on google and you should find a number of them. I think people learn more and retain things better when they are not spoon feed but at the same time I want to make sure people get the correct directions. So with that said I will likely post the links down below :) You will need a special tool to put on the axle seal. The issue is making sure you get it fully seated so the snap rings that go on the shaft that sits inside the unit bearing will seat in the groove. If not the groove will not be far enough forward so you can not get the rings in it. There is a special tool you can buy but if you have a grinder or access to one you can make your own sooooo easy. all you need is the following: black or galvanized 1 1/4" pipe (about 8-12" long) Black or galvanized 1 1/4" floor flange Black or galvanized 1 1/4" pipe cap $10 total at most Screw the cap on one end as this will be what you hammer on on the other end you screw on the flang You need to grind the flange down to 3 13/16" so measure it. All you need is access to a grinder. If you have the axle pull and the new seal you will see just where its to fit into. Just spin it while you have it in contact with the grinder and keep it spinning. Do not stop rotating it while its in contact with the stone. Stop every 30 seconds and measure. you can check it with the seal to see it fits. Then stop. Do not forget it gets hot so do not go touching it right after its off the grinding wheel. Here are some links that will help you greatly. They are step by step hard to screw up instructions. Take you time Do not let your self get discouraged. Just take it one step at a time do not look at it from the size of the whole deal. [URL="http://www.superdutypsd.com/axle_seal_tool.php"]How to make seal installer for front axle shaft[/URL] But I will say before you start make sure everything else in the front end is in perfect condition. If anything looks like its staring to go replace it now unless you like taking everything part over and over again. Here is where you will be at with this: Unit bearings will be off. The brakes will be off. You will have full access the knuckles and ball joints. So before anything check and pull on that wheel. Rotate it each way a number of rev and feel and listen. If you get any wobble you likley have worn ball joints. If there is any sound as you rotate the wheel and its not brake rub the wheel bearings are on there way out. I know it will cost a good deal more money but trust me its worth biting the bullet and doing it all at once. All of this can be done 100% by the home mechanic. Any special tools can be made like above or rented for the local chain auto store. Follow this [url]http://www.superdutypsd.com/ball_joint_article.php[/url] to get the axle out just disregard anything that has to do with pulling the ball joints or separating the tie rod end as thats specific to the ball joints. So here I will make it simpler. Start with step #1 Ignore steps #9 & #10 Stop at step #20 You will have the axle out now. Start back up at step #32 Follow the rest of the steps until the end. This gets you thru removal and install of the axle and its seals. For the ujoints removal and installation OR you can just follow this step by step instruction for u-joint replacement. This covers all the steps. [URL="http://www.frontiernet.net/~jcray/04F250/pdfs/F250AxleUJoints.pdf"]1999-2004 F-250/350 U-Joint Replacment[/URL] Up to you which type of ujoint you get greasable or non. But IMO the nongreaseables have better seals. It goes against what I normally say as I prefer things greaseable but in this case not some much. The part number IIRC are as follows: Non greasable Spicers are 5-801x. Greasable Spicer it is a 5-160x Here is another how to link for u-joints. Not a ford but its the same deal. Having different view points and pictures is always a good thing to help with something you have not done before. [url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles2/tech/ujoint_install[/url] [/QUOTE]