Studs

6speedsd · Mar 18, 2013

This might be an obvious question, but I'll ask it anyways. Are ARP's the same on all 6.0? It's the gaskets that are different by year right? But all years use the same studs. I know there is a different dowel size depending on year, but wasn't sure if that made a difference with the studs.

SPE · Mar 18, 2013

All studs are the same size regardless if it's an 18mm or 20mm.

6speedsd · Mar 18, 2013

Thought so but wanted to make sure. Thanks!

SPE · Mar 18, 2013

No problem.

6speedsd · Mar 18, 2013

I read somewhere that someone (I think Snapon) makes a tool that aids in getting the full torque put on studs. I know it's a pain the put 200+ lbs on a stud while laying across the engine. What is that tool, and how does it work?

Mdub707 · Mar 18, 2013

The tool is ONLY to get at the back studs, as you can't get a torque wrench in there with the cab on. It's not as bad as you think, you can get the 210 ft/lbs required. The tool is just to access the last bolts, not to help torque it easier.

6speedsd · Mar 18, 2013

Yea I actually just read up on that tool.

Actually tilting the motor seems like the general way to get at the drivers side, and removing the EVAP cover supposedly gets you room to get to the passengers side. From what I've seen on searches anyways.

windrunner408 · Mar 18, 2013

Yep, moving the engine is probably the best way to get at the driver's side rear stud. Of course, I dented my firewall and can get at it any time now. LOL

For the passenger side, I actually recommend moving the whole heater core forward as it allows the side of the head to be accessed easily. It only takes about 30 mins to get it pulled forward and you don't have to evacuate the whole A/C system.

As far as getting 210+ ft-lbs of torque goes, I use a cheater bar (as we call it in the Navy) where I put a pipe over the handle of the torque wrench to get some more leverage. It works wonders let me tell you for getting the same torque to all the studs very easily.

Meniacal_Mark · Mar 18, 2013

Cheater bars are handy, especially when something needs around 700 lb-ft to get it tight.

6speedsd · Mar 18, 2013

But wouldn't a cheater actually change the torque you are applying by having a longer lever/fulcrum?

Or am I over thinking this?

Meniacal_Mark · Mar 18, 2013

No, it'll just make the job easier. BTW, the 700 lb-ft I was talking about was bolt double frame rails back together from the cab back on a 260" wb W900L. 4 guys, 2 4ft breaker bars with 4ft extensions, and lots of grrrr-ing. LOL

MorganY · Mar 18, 2013

Meniacal_Mark said:
No, it'll just make the job easier. BTW, the 700 lb-ft I was talking about was bolt double frame rails back together from the cab back on a 260" wb W900L. 4 guys, 2 4ft breaker bars with 4ft extensions, and lots of grrrr-ing. LOL

That sounds like it should be some sort of a sport LOL

Meniacal_Mark · Mar 18, 2013

I hope it's a sport I never have to do again LOL

Mdub707 · Mar 19, 2013

6speedsd said:
But wouldn't a cheater actually change the torque you are applying by having a longer lever/fulcrum?

Or am I over thinking this?

Meniacal_Mark said:
No, it'll just make the job easier. BTW, the 700 lb-ft I was talking about was bolt double frame rails back together from the cab back on a 260" wb W900L. 4 guys, 2 4ft breaker bars with 4ft extensions, and lots of grrrr-ing. LOL

Well technically speaking... yes putting a cheater bar on actually changes the torque you COULD be applying... which is why it's easier to get to the value needed. The torque wrench still clicks on the same setting, so no matter how hard or easy it is for you to turn the torque wrench, it's still going to click at your pre-set poundage. Does that make sense?

windrunner408 · Mar 19, 2013

Meniacal_Mark said:
Cheater bars are handy, especially when something needs around 700 lb-ft to get it tight.

Working smarter not harder right?? These engines are already hard enough to work on when it comes to having to squeeze into places to get at something.

imelmo · Mar 19, 2013

windrunner408 said:
As far as getting 210+ ft-lbs of torque goes, I use a cheater bar (as we call it in the Navy) where I put a pipe over the handle of the torque wrench to get some more leverage. It works wonders let me tell you for getting the same torque to all the studs very easily.